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Green slab in Eldo?

Original Post
Jason Haas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 1,582

OK so after rereading the guidebook and looking at the online photos it was clear that we missed our mark a bit. My partner and I climbed Darkness 'till Dawn with the intention of then doing the upper part of Green Slab Direct. However after the anchor on Darkness, we did the shitty, loose pitch to the left (Green Slab's 2nd pitch) but traversed too far to the left once on the large ledge to a big tree with ratty slings. I think this is the anchor tree for Paris Girl. My partner led straight up the arete/chimney above the large tree (to the left of the Green Slab Direct crack) intending for an old bolt and hanger. Is this part of the left option for the Green Slab Direct? Anyways, my partner ended up climbing straight up the chimney/dihedral to the left of the Green Slab Direct to a dead tree and then the top. Now I realize that this was not the Green Slab Direct, but was it the upper part of the Green Slab? It fits the vague description in the guidebook but I thought perhaps that the upper part of the Green Slab continued straight up from the shitty, loose pitch above the Darkness anchor in a left facing dihedral and did not cross lines with the Green Slab Direct (climbing left of it after the ledge). Does anyone know what we climbed? I'm not saying it was good, I was just curious what it was. My other thought is that it could be the top of Lost in Space.

logan johnson · · West Copper, Co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 315

My partner and I have had similar issues with that route. It sounds like you we're off route until the top of the arete where the cracks will push you left onto the top few feet of the arete. If you are so inclined you should go back and do the cracks themselves (great thin 5.9 climbing)
Lost In space is way up the wall and not recommended. It involves one nice pitch of a 5.8 dihedral and several crap-tacular 5.weird pitches. I recall at one point climbing stacked dinner plates wedged in a dihedral sideways.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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