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The Needles / Kern River


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Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006
Administrator: Matthew Fienup
Latitude: 36.1214  Longitude: -118.5044 
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The Needles, as viewed from Dome Rock


Description 

The upper Kern River Valley, in Sequoia National Forest, is a true outdoor paradise. The area is home to outstanding white water kayaking, fishing, mountain biking and hiking. Natural wonders include the "Grand Canyon of the Kern River" (a scenic waterway cut by the mighty Kern), the southern-most stand of old-growth Giant Sequoias and countless waterfalls, natural water slides, and plunge pools.

AND THEN THERE'S THE CLIMBING.

The area is home to the world famous Needles and several other truly outstanding formations, including Dome Rock and Elephant Knob. It has been said that the Needles themselves are home to the highest density of classic routes anywhere. This is not an overstatement. The overshadowed lesser formations are worthwhile destinations in their own right and should not be overlooked.


Getting There 

The Kern River Valley is quite large, so for directions see the description for the specific sub-area you wish to visit


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Needles / Kern River:
The Lieback   5.5     Trad, 2 pitches   Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern...
Tree Route   5.6     Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   Dome Rock
Magic Dragon   5.8 R     Trad, 10 pitches   The Needles : The Magician
White Punks on Dope   5.8+ PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III   The Needles : Voodoo Dome
Spooky   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet   The Needles : The Charlatan
Innersanctum   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II   The Needles : The Witch
Igor Unchained   5.9+     Trad, 3 pitches   The Needles : The Witch
Anti-Jello Crack   5.10a     Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade II   Dome Rock
Love Potion No. 9   5.10a PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   The Needles : The Sorcerer's Apprentice
The Howling   5.10a PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   The Needles : The Warlock
Airy Interlude   5.10b     Trad, 3 pitches   The Needles : The Witch
Thin Ice   5.10b     Trad, 3 pitches   The Needles : The Sorcerer
Fancy Free   5.10     Trad, 3 pitches   The Needles : The Charlatan
Spook Book   5.10+ R     Trad, 4 pitches   The Needles : The Witch
Lost at Sea   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch   The Needles : The Sorcerer
The Don Juan Wall   5.11b     Trad, 5 pitches   The Needles : The Sorcerer
Ice Pirates   5.11b     Trad, 2 pitches   The Needles : The Sorcerer
Ankles Away   5.11 PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 230 feet   The Needles : The Witch
Atlantis   5.11+ PG13     Trad, 4 pitches   The Needles : The Sorcerer
Romantic Warrior   5.12b     Trad, 9 pitches   The Needles : The Warlock
Browse More Classics in The Needles / Kern River

Featured Route For The Needles / Kern River
Two climbers just starting the second pitch. You can see the roof at the top of the photo.

Welcome to Bald Eagle Peak 5.11-  CA : The Needles / Kern River : Bald Eagle Peak
Pitch One: 140 ft. Easy climbing to a bolt 25 feet up and just left of a small arete, then follow the bolts through weakness in roof to the anchors. Pitch Two: Climb right and up off the belay. The second pitch is in your face from the time you leave the belay and it doesn't let up for a long time. Each time you figure out a move and reach the next bolt there is another puzzle to work out. Probably one of the finest face pitches I have climbe...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of The Needles / Kern River Slideshow Add Photo
Just past the crux. Anon.

Just past the crux. Anon.

Photo from inside the lookout showing the resupply helicopter.<br />I fly the helicopter and climb Needles on my off time.

Photo from inside the lookout showing the resupply...

My son Josh standing atop the Charlatan when he visited me this Summer.

My son Josh standing atop the Charlatan when he vi...

Josh and I standing atop the Charlatan, photo taken by Margi (she works in the lookout)through the telescope on the lookout.

Josh and I standing atop the Charlatan, photo take...

Here I am at the Rectory...on a Herb Laeger route, 5.10c

Here I am at the Rectory...on a Herb Laeger route,...

secret swimming hole...<br /><br />(scan)

secret swimming hole...

(scan)


Northern Pacific Rattlesnake, spotted near the Fire lookout in the Needles, California

Northern Pacific Rattlesnake, spotted near the Fir...

Needles lookout sign

Needles lookout sign

The Needles

The Needles

Black Bears are a common sight throughout the Kern River Valley.  Proper food storage is a must.

Black Bears are a common sight throughout the Kern...

Horned Lizard--another of the extraordinary creatures who make the Upper Kern River Valley home.

Horned Lizard--another of the extraordinary creatu...