Sinks Canyon is a premier climbing destination, plus its proximity to the Wind River range, Wild Iris, Fossil Hill, Baldwin Creek, and the NOLS headquarters make the Lander area something to check out. Maybe even over and over. If you haven't headed up there, maybe even check out the annual climbers fest (July - http://www.climbersfestival.org ), where Lander throws climbers a big 'ol party. This canyon has it all; three types of rock : limestone, granite, and sandstone; sport, bouldering, and trad; with alpine climbing just further up in the Winds.
The sandstone and granite are predominately trad while the limestone is mainly sport. The south facing cliffs of the Main walls and Fairfield Hill are sunny and warm, making the best season to climb here spring and fall. Rock quality is generally good to superb. The order of the cliffs on the main limestone wall from east to west (down to up canyon) is: Scud Wall, Killer Cave, Camel Jockey, Briskets, White Heat Wall, Addiction, The Citadel, Hardware Wall, Fallen Idol, The Moss/Wave Cave, Purple Galaxy, and the Wilds. Fairfield Hill (East, Central, and West) is further west (upcanyon). Watch out for 1) afternoon thunderstorms rolling off the Winds 2) numerous rattlesnakes and 3) locals who have 'Killer' wired.
For amenities, Lander is one of THE climber friendliest towns ever. You can camp in the grassy city park for free with a three day limit. There a three pay campgrounds ($10?) as you head up into the canyon, with the third located within walking distance of the main approach trails. These campgrounds are free September - April, which contains much of the climbing best season. A year-round free campground is located just 1/2 mile up the canyon on the left, after the Geology Camp. This has even has a bathroom and a trashcan, pretty sites, some accessible only via short 4WD types of roads or drag your gear into them. These can be popular with the local Lander teens. Theft has been more of a problem here, and somewhat at the pay campgrounds, according to local law enforcement. Lander has a decent collection of reasonable motels for 'that' kind of crowd. There are a handful of good restaurants, such as the Gannet Grill, a Chinese place, a Mexican joint and others. There are two grocery stores. There is a climbing gym for when you have been snowed out: The Gravity Club, 221 S 2nd. Street. The National Outdoor Leadership School is centered in Lander at 502 Lincoln. You can get a showers at NOLS, the Gravity Club, or the Lander pool.
Lander, Sinks and this area of Wyoming is something to cherish. Have fun, be respectful to the locals (including them feisty rattlesnakes), and pack out all trash.
Getting There
Head to Lander (NW of Rawlins, NE of Rock Springs) and head west of town on Wy 131 -- sign near Safeway in town.
Bush Doctor shares its start and 5-6 bolts with Blood Line(11d), before heading left up an overhanging headwall (not the farthest left line - a harder 12 called ??). The bottom crux involves a somewhat painful handjam, some sequential moves, followed by laybacking with popcorn limestone feet. After a mellow section up a left facing dihedral, you approach the turning point between Bush Doctor and Blood Line. The upper crux has some long pulls, g...[more]
Sinks now has a lot of 5.10s and even some great 8's and 9's so there is something for everybody. Climbed there last July 4th after the routes went in the shade (about 3:00 PM that time of year) and my son and I were the only people on the crag. In the shade the temperature was fine. Can't explain the lack of people but it was really a terrific day! Also don't miss the Gannett Grill.
From May to August, Sinks Canyon experiences a seasonal Rattlesnake Migration. This is more than just an unusual number of snakes-- they are on the move, traveling in packs of two to nine, and are extremely aggressive. Moreover, they like to follow the line of the cliff as they migrate. It is not unusual to pull over a tough roof move and find yourself face to face with a five foot venomous rattlesnake. The last victim was bitten on the neck. He was dead before his partner finished lowering him to the ground.
Rattlesnake migration??? Well I have been there nine summers in a row during this "migration" period and have yet to see a rattlesnake although I have seen a lot of bull snakes which are often mistaken for rattlesnakes. During my summer trips there I got to know the campground hosts Chuck and Mitzi (sp?) They lived at the Sinks Canyon campground for several summers. Chuck was a retired cowboy and the kind of guy that knew a rattlesnake when he saw one. He had never seen one and thought it was too high for them there. Ya Rattlesnakes might be there but I find it hard to believe that punkencack's post is legitimate.
If only the snakes were migrating during the good season to climb. I'm all but certain I could leave a pan of brownie batter out at the base of Killer in the middle of July, come back in an hour, and have a batch of brownies ready.
The second Forest Service campground is fantastic. If you can, snag a site on the river side, and be treated to the beautiful and crystal-clear Popo Agie. There were no rattlers when we were wandering around, mid-late Aug.
A warning to Dan and other non-believers. There are MOST DEFINITELY rattlesnakes in Sinks Canyon . . . thousands of them, and they are aggressive and DANGEROUS as all get out. They will BITE YOU. More importantly, they will bite your children and your dogs. I've seen them attack a pair of shoes left at the base of the crag. These huge deadly rattlesnakes are no joke . . .
And the recent ARSON has left a bleak landscape of scorched earth, blackened and sunbaked-- a highly attractive reality for the cold blooded rattlesnakes. As a result, they are to be seen sunning themselves on the carboniferous soil by the hundreds. Oh yes, it is a most hellish picture, indeed. And since it is so hot, and the snakes have baked in the sun so long now, they move like lightning and come on you in packs. You can't even run away.
As for the alleged plethora of 5.10 at Sinks, this is the real fiction on this page. There is one (that's right ONE) 5.10 at Sinks, and everything else is 5.12 or harder. If you want to climb in the cave, expect to climb 5.12c or harder. If you want to climb outside the cave, expect to climb 5.12a or harder. In both cases, expect to be swarmed by super-angry sun-soaked rattlesnakes hell-bent to bite you and inject POISON. Keep your kids safe. Keep your dog alive. Just stay at home.
If you do come to Sinks, bring stove-pipe gators that have been certified snake proof. These are at least 1mm thick iron gators made from actual stove pipes. New teflon gators are under development, but have not yet been released to the general public.
It's so bad in Sinks that the local Hospital (Lander Valley Medical) is OUT of antivenin, and they expect to remain out for some time.
Bring your own antivenin, or just don't come at all. That's my advice to you.
Just returned from a nice week at Sinks. Nice temps, 60-70F with a nice breeze. One day of solid rain and occasional drops on the sunny days.
Indeed, the fire damage is pretty extensive (arson from Feb '09, I've read). But, new growth is coming in all over, which is nice.
With due respect to punkencrack, there are snakes in the canyon. But, there's no need to panic. We came across one prairie rattler on the approach trail - s/he just slid across the trail in the middle of our party, while we gave wide berth. Just keep your eyes open, and you'll be fine. There's lots of info about them at the visitor's station down the canyon.
Regarding the availability of moderate climbs, we enjoyed a bunch of .10's. Some of our favorites: Boy, I Gotta Go (10a), Scud Wall ; Climb Like a Girl (10a), " " ; Banofee (10a), " " ; Action Candy (10a), Killer Cave ; Firecracker Kid (10b), Harvest Moon Wall ; Elmo's Fish (10d), " " ; Child's Play (10c), " " ; Bones Brigade (10a), Happy Wheel Wall ; Happy Wheel (10a), " " ; The Guyver (10b), Brisket Wall;
... in short, there are lots of nice 10's at Sinks.
Also, the Holiday Lodge (behind the McDonald's on the hill downtown) offers showers, towels, soap, etc. for $5. Definitely nice if you've been camping for a while :)
I still recommend panicking. The snakes are literally everywhere, and they're just plain angry this year.
And as for the list of 5.10's given by this character "Josh M." (if that is in fact this real name), I postulate he may have been in a different area (i.e. the sandstone buttress where neophytes typically hang out) and confused about his recent trip to Wyoming, perhaps a result of some of that "Boulder Kind" all those folks down there are compelled to smoke.
Sinks Canyon
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