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Durango


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Submitted By: eric dixon on Apr 28, 2006
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Elevation: 6,512 feet
Latitude: 37.2675  Longitude: -107.8800 
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Durango's Premier Crag - The Watch Crystal


Description 

Durango is a mid-sized western town in southwest Colorado with a variety of local rock climbing. For a good pump on some steep limestone, check out the sport climbing at the Golf Wall. If you think trad is rad, make a trip to East Animas and don't miss the Watch Crystal. It is one of the finest pieces of stone in the area. All you "pad-people", want to boulder? There is plenty of that as well. Turtle Lake and Sailing Hawks offer a variety of boulders and are close to town. Beginners can enjoy top-roping at X-Rock, where there are plenty of friendly routes. If you prefer something a little more obscure, try exploring the Hermosa cliffs. Lemon Reservoir should not be missed either. It is one of the newer crags in the area where you can find quality sport, gear, or mixed lines. Your best bet for information on climbing in the area is to pick up a copy of "Durango Sandstone" at any of the climbing shops in town.

Backcountry Experience
Pine Needle Mountaineering
Gardenswartz Sporting Goods

Spring and Fall are the best seasons to rock climb around Durango. The temperatures are typically mild during these times. Summers can get hot, especially on sunny walls, but it can be pleasant to climb in the shade or during the morning. Winter typically brings colder weather and snow, but during periods of dry weather in the sun it can be nice.


Getting There 

HWY 550 from the north or south, and HWY 160 from the east or west.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Durango:
I Need a Shower   5.7+     Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet   East Animas : Jabba Buttress
Triple Tree Direct   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   East Animas : Far Left
Byrd's Classic   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches   East Animas : Byrd's
Apple Cider   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet   East Animas : Apple Cider
Simians to the Sun   5.9+     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Push-Me-Pull-You   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Apes of Wrath   5.10     Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Durangotang   5.10c     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 300 feet   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Gold Wall   5.10+     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   X Rock : Gold Wall
Greenskeeper's Playground   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Golf Wall : Back 9
Watch Crystal Crack   5.10d     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Crime & Punishment   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Par Six   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Golf Wall : Back 9
The Kong Route   5.11b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Holy Grail   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Lemon Reservoir : East Side
Jailhouse Monkey (on dope)   5.12a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet   East Animas : Watch Crystal
Chingadero?   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   East Animas : Apple Cider
Cinderella Story   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Golf Wall : Back 9
Stargazer   5.12b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   East Animas : Stargazer
Divitator   5.12b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Golf Wall : Front 9
Browse More Classics in Durango

Featured Route For Durango
Erik D. 5th classing on B+E's.

Burt and Ernie's Tourney 5.12b/c  CO : Durango : ... : Back 9
This route has holds that are fun to go in between with specific body movements and stuff. This free-form rock climb will make your gripping extremities tired, unless you are immune to tiredness... in which case it won't....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Durango Slideshow Add Photo
Tom crossing a tyrolean in Granite lands.

Tom crossing a tyrolean in Granite lands.

Laser crack, V2ish.

Laser crack, V2ish.

Baker's bridge<br />Photo by B. Campbell

Baker's bridge
Photo by B. Campbell


Gentle Ben on Legacy of the Kid 5.9 R/X.<br />WORD!

BETA PHOTO: Gentle Ben on Legacy of the Kid 5.9 R/X.
WORD!


Khumbu, the Hermosa dog at the trailhead. She would wander along the base of the cliff and stop in shady spots and direct my gaze up to the possibilities. Here she is after a quick descent from another day at the cliffs....

Khumbu, the Hermosa dog at the trailhead. She woul...

Like overhangs?

Like overhangs?

The Pope's Nose.

The Pope's Nose.

Bouldering on boulders.

Bouldering on boulders.

More bouldering on boulders.

More bouldering on boulders.

Local Durango hard-goats.

Local Durango hard-goats.

Steve, Eggman, Eginore bivying on Insectaphobia, the Pope's Nose, overlooking the Los Pinos River Valley. Photo: Dan Steaevs.

Steve, Eggman, Eginore bivying on Insectaphobia, t...

Steve, Eggman, Eginore, aid climbing on Insectaphobia, the Pope's Nose.  Photo: Dan Steaves.

Steve, Eggman, Eginore, aid climbing on Insectapho...

South/southeast face of the Pope's Nose.

South/southeast face of the Pope's Nose.

Valalpin's Formations....

Valalpin's Formations....

Nice...

Nice...

Kris French tests out his shiny new 25-bolt anchor on the "The Pinkest Taco" V 5.12 C2+. Despite spray bolting at the belays, this is a SICK way up the 'nose!

Kris French tests out his shiny new 25-bolt anchor...

Dihedral of Grinning Hostess w/ aesthetic undercling and jugs of Our Typhoon Rhythm below Kevin.

Dihedral of Grinning Hostess w/ aesthetic undercli...

1st ascent for those who dare...Wildcat Canyon.

1st ascent for those who dare...Wildcat Canyon.


Comments on Durango Add Comment
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By m-earle
From: Durango CO
Dec 11, 2007

I've been wanting to check Hermosa out. I never thought of climbing there (it looks like choss from 550), until I saw that there were 60 routes posted here. It sounds like there is some interesting stuff.

By Matthias Holladay
Dec 16, 2007

Yes, there are some interesting routes. Check out the hard free route potential of Iridescent Hummingbird, Shark's Fin and other old aid routes which surmount Khumbu's Cove. It's actually quite amazing these lines have not been freed yet. Enjoy! (Route names stay the same with FFA credit given.)

By Kevin Sainio
From: Durango, CO
Sep 17, 2008

The new edition of Durango Sandstone has been released! It is available at Backcountry Experience in Durango. Look for the Crow on the corner of 12th and Camino del Rio.

By IanA
From: Durango, CO
Aug 7, 2009

Here is a link to a good video representing the Bouldering in Durango.

By IanA
From: Durango, CO
Aug 18, 2009

Durango Bouldering Guide in stores now. Check it out!