Ten Sleep Canyon

what is the weather like in mid may? Should I wait? Thanks for any info.

This place blows Lander AWAY. There are over 500 routes!!! Ignore the overhyped cowboy 3 bolt routes at Wild Iris and climb here.

The Ten Broek RV Park in the town of Ten Sleep offers sybaritic climbers weary of USFS campgrounds tent sites, communal bathrooms and showers, a laundry room, and clean, "primitive" cabins equipped with air-conditioners and electricity. The Park is a short block's walk from the town's bars, cafe, espresso joint, and ice cream parlor -- and a 10-30 minute drive from the Canyon's climbing areas. Tent sites are $19/day; cabins start at $36/day. Call ahead for more information and reservations. (Thanks to Bryson Slothower for the tip.)

The Book for the area is good. The only problem is that routes are going in so fast that there is a new book out each year. I wish that Huey would publish just the additional routes as a companion. I still recommend that you buy the book and head out to Ten Sleep if you have not been. Unless of course you don't like sport climbing because it is not pure enough for you, or whatever. If you don't like clipping bolts then you will hate Ten Sleep as much as you hate Shelf, Lander, Rifle, Utah Hills, Last Chance Canyon, and all of the other places where protection has been given higher importance than Style.

Bill,

Any advice on where to find the guidebook?

The guidebook can be purchased in Tensleep at the general store (Dirty Sally's). I remember that there was some sort of issue with the owner not taking credit cards so plan on paying with cash ~$20 if I remember correctly. I also believe that the Wildernessexchange in Denver will have it. If you are coming up through Denver that is probably your best bet.

From Huey's website:

"Pick up a copy of the Tensleep Guide at DIRTY SALLY'S Ice Cream shop in Tensleep, The Wild Iris Mountain Store in downtown Lander, or Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder."

I'm still Pretty sure that the Wildy Sex Change has it too.

Thanks Bill! I've heard refences to free camping in the area. Where is that located?

Just returned from Ten Sleep and although the climbing was sweet, finding the free camping took some time. The Forest Service campsites down canyon are a crime. Charging people to be stacked one on top of another, and adjacent to the highway. We "found" after 2-3 trips up the old highway very few spots to camp. We did find a sweet place that about 4-5 parties can camp in. There was not much to be had on the old highway. If there is "loads" of free camping on forest service land we didn't find it.
Bring everything you need for wilderness camping cause the town of Ten Sleep had very little in the way of provisions.
Awesome place >>>>

Are Sinks and Tensleep at about the same elevation? Are their seasons similar? I'm trying to decide on one fo the two.

Never been to Tensleep. I saw the guide a couple of years ago and that alone got me stoked to check it out. I love pocketed limestone!

there is much more elevation difference from crag to crag in ten sleep, thus, the season is nearly year-round.
if you like steep angles or routes above 5.12, ten sleep does not compare to the sinks.

There is an ice climb in Ten Sleep canyon that I've done. It's pretty obvious from the road.

I have to drive past there the weekend of June 6th, I was wondering, to make the other trip worth it, if anyone would be interested in climbing. I have never been to the area. I could be there on the 5th or the 8th for the day.
Tina

GO TO TENSLEEP JULY 4th WEEKEND, my wife and I have been going the last 4 years. Its way cooler (temps) than Iris and Sinks and has WAY, WAY more routes. Its Iris plus Sinks times 10. And Iris is WAY crowded for their festival.

The informal festival kind of dissolved for awhile but I hear its coming back big this year. Rodeo, street dance, and alot of new routes. Youll find a good number of climbers to hang out with that week, but will never find a crag thats crowded, there's just too much rock.

Camping in Tensleep is free on the old road. Routes in shade all day, the upper canyon goes in at 1pm. The Lower Canyon is good for morning. You couldnt climb all the routes there is you stayed all summer.

Guidebook can be found at the Ice Cream shop in Tensleep or online, search google for Tensleep climbing guide. I hear there are 700 routes there now. Is this true? There must be at least 500 from what Ive seen.

Hey grappler, the 4th sounds great, but unfortunately I have no control over this weekend. A friend in Montana is getting married on Saturday so I am driving up there for the wedding. I just figured that if I was going to drive all that way, I would try to get some climbing in while there. But thanks for the info.
Tina

Any day in Ten Sleep is good, just be sure to go!!! Early june will be best in lower canyon. Look for Charlie Kardaleff he bolted all the best 10s and 11s down there!

Thought you all planning on visiting Ten Sleep might be interested in this:

http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=blog.view&frien>>>>>

I almost expect to see Mike pissing on the bases of all the routes. Bizarre...

Hey Matt.
I saw this post too (by the way this is Tina from inner strength). I am heading there alone and am a little concerned about this guy, but I don't like the idea of not going either. But worst case scenario, things are weird and I pack it in and head home early. Hope all is well.
Tina

Here's an email being circulated about the situation. The sheriff and FS law enforcement are watching this asshole very closely but everyone can help by expressing their concerns to the authorities as listed below.

> Some of you climb in Tensleep Canyon (WYO) and some of you dont.
>
> My hope is that if you love climbing or you know anyone at all who climbs in Ten Sleep that you will help us with a simple email to the local authorities.
>
> Mike Decker, a local who has created problems in the past is making threats against visitors to the canyon. While I dont believe that he will likely hurt anyone that he doesnt know, there is a VERY high likelihood that he will hurt one of the 6 main bolters in the canyon.
>
> Please take 1 minute and send a brief message that links his myspace posting (his "declaration of war") : http://blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=blog.view&frien>>>>>
>
> And tell the authorities (following addresses are the police and sheriff) wcsdept@rtconnect.net, wcso201@rtconnect.net, worlpd@rtconnect.net, copwpd@rtconnect.net
> that you are concerned about the threat of violence and youd like them to act BEFORE something happens, not AFTER. That without action you will have a hard time visiting this summer.
>
> In 2006 Mike attacked two bolters that he knew, and was charged with battery. That summer he also chopped a dozen routes. Lets get a jump on this situation and stop it before it starts again. The best way to fight back is to not be afraid. COME IN LARGE NUMBERS AND ENJOY TEH CANYON.
>
> 500+ routes now, and free camping!
>
> This summer we are celebrating the 10th Annual (and very informal) Ten Sleep Climbing Festival over the 4th of July weekend (rodeo, street dance, and new routes)
>
> 100 emails coming in to the police department WILL make something happen.
> If you think of anyone else please send this on to them.
>
> Many Thanks.
>

From the sheriffs office...

This matter can be dealt with before tragedy befalls anyone. I would need you to complete and file a formal affidavit as to the threats against you. This can be accomplished by coming to Worland, Wyoming and completing the affidavit first hand or I can forward you a statement form that you can fill out, have notarized and return the original back to me. At that time we can forward this information to the Washakie County Attorney. I have also spoken with Cindy Gradin, U.S. Forest Service Law Enforcement Officer out of Sheridan, Wyoming and advised her of this issue as well. She can be contacted at cgradin@fs.fed.us. We are willing to help you with this issue, but you are going to have to help us document these problems and make the County Attorney aware of them so some sort of action can be taken.

Thank You

Steven R. Rakness

Sheriff, Washakie County, Wyoming

I still plan on going. Does anyone know of anyone I could hook up with there to climb with? I will be traveling alone. I had hoped to meet someone there or in town, but if I knew someone ahead of time that might be better.


Tina

Thanks, powerandrubber. This letter was posted to MP.com's feedback also (I should have put up the whole email). It's good to see that there is a response from the sheriff's. Has anybody followed up on this?

Tina, we are fairly certain we will be there that weekend (along with some others). I wouldn't worry too much about this guy as there will probably be a fair number of people there.

For what it's worth. I did contact Mike. I didn't know what to expect, but I met up with him and another friend and climbed with him both Sunday and Monday. FYI, lead my first 12a, awesome! He is a great guy and I understand his beef and everything seems to have been blown way out of proportion. He's not crazy (well no more than I am)or violent. And he has put in a lot of work and money into that area. I will definitely be climbing with him again. And the area.. is absolutely beautiful!

I heard a rumor that there is a 2008 ten sleep guide available. Does anyone know if this is true or not? I am planning on being in the area for the 4th of July festivities and would like to have the most recent guide.

Thanks

We know biting flies can be somewhat of a neusance in this area from time to time. Anyone have recent information about biting flies for this time of year?

This is off topic, sorry. But we want to go this summer with our kids. How are the bases of the cliffs and approaches? Kid friendly?

Does anyone know if a 50M rope would be adequate for the area? I am planning a trip here in a week. Unfortunately the only rope i have access to is a 50M. Thanks for the info.
Climb hard.
J

India, some friends of ours were concerned about this also, so they called up there. The consensus was that they were not an issue right now.

Krista, we have a child and we are going up with another family this weekend; I will let you know what I think.

Hey guys! A few of my friends and I are gonna visit the canyon this weekend. Any recommendations on which areas we should visit? Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

apparantly a post about the condition of his rack.
Not good :)

I wont be leaving any draw behind next week.
WEBE.

Mondo eh?
Any other must do's?? i'd like to see some flashy lines in the upper 12's and 13s.
Love the look of that stone!
It is gonna rock!

yeah sorry i know its not really a condition report, but i posted it like that for two reasons: 1) it will automatically delete itself and 2) it puts itself at the top.

i guess ill take it down and buy some new draws. ten sleep is the bomb cant wait til next summer!

Strangly enough when i was there last week. There were fixed draws everywhere up in FCR and superratic.
I wonder why yours came up missing with all that? there was no one around for 4 days. one other party that we had chatted with.
anyways.

sick sick sick.
the above mentioned walls are the shizz.
two thumbs up for the ten sleep saloon.

yeah im pretty sure it was a innocent misstake. there were 3 other routes with draws on them (slavery wall) and i was able to find out that there were 8 kids from the univ. of wyoming and that they had been gangbanging that route. 4 of them went down to the parking lot earlier than the others and im thinking maybe the 4 remaining thought they (the draws) belonged to someone in the 4 that went down. seems weird that theyd just steal my draws and not get the others. who knows? it doesnt even begin to damper my feelings about ten sleep. this was my second trip there both being a month long and i plan on being back next summer cause it just doesnt get much better than this!

So...we're planning on heading out to Ten Sleep over the 4th of July weekend (can't wait), but nary a guidebook is to be found. I'm sure I'll be able to find one once I get into town, but I was hoping to have something to peruse before we show up. I've called every place I've heard of that carries Huey's guide, hoping to get one shipped to me in Atlanta, but they are all out and don't know when they'll be getting new stock.

Any info appreciated...

Thanks,
Mike

Would Tensleep warrant a month long stay? How hard would it be to find partners? I'd like to avoid the crowds of Lander or Rifle, yet still climb quality routes. So is Tensleep worth it?

Negative. Ten Sleep Canyon good for ten sleeps only! Duh!

;-)

NEW Ten Sleep 6th edition guide book out JUNE 10!

you can get it from www.aaronhuey.com

or Dirty Sally's and the stagecoach shop in Tensleep. Also Wild Iris in Lander.

see you in July!

Anyone have experience bringing dogs to Tensleep? All good? No good?

Aaron - that's awesome about the new guidebook! Thanks for all the hard work...can't wait to check it out.

Given the timing of our trip, we prob won't have a chance to get the guide before heading out there. That said, can anyone recommend a good area for our first day on the rock? Something relatively easy to get to with a wide range of difficulty (5.9 to low 5.12). We're from the south, so we can deal with some heat (if that makes a difference in crag recommendation).

Thanks!
Mike

Heat? I drove through the canyon last Friday and the temperature was about 35-45 degrees F! This was unusually cold, though.

Mike,

Go to the main Mondo Beyondo area or Home Alone (right by the road). You won't have to worry about heat at Tensleep, all the westerners are wimps when it comes to that. If the 500 sweet routes at Tensleep aren't enough, or if your fingers get worked by the sharp dolomite, head to Spearfish Canyon in SD, it's only a couple of hours away and there are hundreds more routes that seem to be less sharp. Enjoy!!

Tzilla - thanks, we'll check those areas out. As for Spearfish, yeah, we're checking it out for a few days en route to Ten Sleep (we're flying into Rapid City). Based on your warning about the sharp holds, maybe we should have planned our destinations in reverse order. Then again, I hear Ten Sleep is a good time over the July 4th weekend...can't wait.

Mike

Anybody have any info on the overhang that forms the right wall of a dihedral across the canyon from Home Alone? There's a 10 bolt 10+ all by its lonesome, and its damn good!

I got the beta. Its a Decker route, but since it doesn't really have any good parking, is all by its lonesome, and incredibly obvious, it might be worthwhile to leave it be until developing fills in around it.

A recent visit confirms that this is now UNQUESTIONABLY the premier limestone area in the state! I love Wild Iris and Sinks, but as good as those places are, Ten Sleep is bigger and better - by a long shot.

Are wasps a problem in the pockets here during July/August?

This past July I found lots of creatures living in the pockets, spiders, bugs, even a bat living in one of the pockets. Nothing prevented us from climbing though. Didn't come across any wasps. I've been to quite a few sport climbing crags in the US and this one blew me away.

saw lots of wasp-like bees in the pockets in mid-september of this year, but none were aggressive. Just go there!