New forum!

Devils Lake is certainly vertically challenged. There are no multi-pitch climbs, but the rock quality is really second to none. It is a wonderful and enchanting spot, unless it has changed over the past twenty years.

Tom, I am unsure who scribed the signs but I presume it may have been Rob Lemon as he was infatuated with LSD and also like to drink martinis. Coming from Taylor's Falls you probably climbed with Tommy Deuchler as he also did some climbing at the Falls, although I did not. It sounds like you certainly embodied the spirit of the club, and I am looking for the "original" DLFA placard which stated "Drink to puke, puke to bleed, and bleed to die!" It was drawn by Bill Russell our original VP of the club and shows a rat with sunglasses spewing puke. I know I have it somewhere and will post along with pics of the old gang just as soon as I dig out the old photos. As all clubbers had a great deal of fun in the pursuit of becoming "hip, vibrant, sensuous, self-actualized, and aware" I hope you have used your training well since your initiation. I have heard some bad rumors of a few who went off the deep end, never to be heard of again. Ever spend any time at Hickory Grove (Jackness) camp ground? There were some pretty wild parties back in the days.

Hi Jim,

Jackness now. Jacknes forever. Jackness for the revolution!
I remember Tommy well, even though we didn't hang with the same crew, we often found ourselves climbing together at the same spots.
I seem to remember a guy named Gene the drug machine too. I ran into him at The Lake and out in The Valley during the summer of 1980. I was doing a speed-rap off of Galcier Point Apron, passing some DLFA on the way down, to hit the liquor store before it closed.
I ran into one of Gene's buddies later that summer at The Lake and he said: "Oh yeah, your that guy from The Valley. We thought it commendable that you sent a man down early to restock supllies."
I did participate in a few ragers at the Jackness Campground and the details are a blur. I do remembber one of my pals getting busted bby the rangers with a pipe. Because we were Taylors Falls regulars who could only make it to The Lake on occasion, we adopted the DLFA spirit and tailored it to our local area. For a while we referred to ourselves as the ISFA (InterState Fukness Association). We used to call each other at the crags with a specialized yell that went something like: Hoop Hoop Ungh (with the emphasis on the Ungh. Does this sound familiar? Did this get passed down to us from the DLFA or was this our conception? Another motto was "Have fun or get hurt bad" Sound familiar?
There were also two Taylors Falls locals who could crank really hard back then. One of their names was Dan Grady. He hung with a guy named Dick?
I really do miss the old days when climbing was counter culture and not yet mainstream as it is today. The kids these days can pull down hard, but have lost the partying skills that were essential back in the day. I miss staggering around the midwestern crags and abusing croutons (tourists), and then soloing some testpiece in front of a group of National Guard or Minnesota Rovers with a doobie hanging out of my mouth.
The DLFA will live forever in the marrow of a few of us old guys who are now scattered about the country.

As you can see, I have placed the DLFA placard as my personal photo. The original DLFA crew would also hoop hoop, but no Ungh. Each group adapted different calls so as to readily be identified from great distances. During my last trip a week ago my hoop hoop calls went unanswered as I fear most of the DLFA has disbanded to private regular lives with jobs and mortgages. The early days were so much more simple when all you had to worry about was getting enough money to buy some Camel straights and a 12 pack of cheap ale. I remember during the late 70s early eighties drinking Lord Calvert on hy head until I passed out in the sun with my monkey fur sarape. When I awoke 4 hrs later I had several dozen pennies on my face and eyes as some of the other now gone DLFAers had used me as a target for pitching pennies. I see Pete Cleveland still lives on Sky hi rd, but I have been unable to track down where Tommy Deuchler ended up. The stories of Jackness are many, and I never outgrew my party ways. Although, my excesses are well hidden from my current neighbors and associates but I have never fully outgrown them. If you hear from Tommy, or the whereabouts of any other members please send them to this site or to my personal email rudolph@doall.com

Hi Jim,
You are indeed a kindred spirit. I too have hooped at climbing areas in vain hope that I may one day hear someone return my call.
I have not been back to Devils Lake for over twenty years, but I've done it at several other areas. Back in the early eighties was the last time my hoop was answered. It was on Flagstaff Mt above boulder, and that was back in about 1982 or 83. It was so long ago that I can't remember who it was that answered the call, but I met them and climbed/partied with them for the remainder of that day.
You wrote, " I never outgrew my party ways. Although, my excesses are well hidden from my current neighbors and associates but I have never fully outgrown them." Oh my god, what a major deja vu. You could have written that about me.
May the Rock God smile on you and keep your shwag dry!

I began climbing at DL in 1994, in the post-DLFA era. I only ever knew DLFA to stand for: Devil's Lake Family Association.

For those who feel it necessary to slander DL: Stay in Colorado. I have climbed in your state, and I was not impressed.

Jay Knower wrote: Stay in Colorado. I have climbed in your state, and I was not impressed.

ouch.

I also began climbing at Devils lake and now live in the west. calling the lake a pile or that it sucks is sad; you're missing the whole point. as my wife assures me size does not matter!! ive climbed a good amount in utah and would like to make some comparisons. First at the lake I can get cold non- 3.2 beer at the park, I dont have to drive through a huge metropolis to get to the crag, i could wear a flannel shirt to climbing and not worry about making a fashion faux pas, the immmaculate purple quartzite is some of the finest stone on the planet, it has a great traditional ethic, and did I mention, I can get ice cold beer in the park! wisconsin may not have the sick and savage climbs like the fisher towers, castle valley, or indian creek; but it does have a hidden gem -like quality that takes a real climber to appreciate! Cheers-EB

As I would be considered one of the "old-timers" and have not climbed seriousely at Devils Lake for about 10 years, I am curious to hear from any of the present day climbers on how it is today. I unpacked my rope a few weeks ago and am considering a reunion weekend exursion to consume mass quantities of liquour and of course reclimb some of my old personal favorites - Flatiron, The End, Mouse Tracks and others. Back in the '70's it was primarily a bunch of die hard climbers with a j in one hand and eyes half shut. I need to be prepared if the current crowd is a bunch of church goers out for their Sunday rappeling practice.

Aren't there some cool ole Gill problems back there?

Yes there are. One of the most famous is the "Flatiron". It is near the top of the boulder field on the East side below "Sometimes Crack". It is called Flatiron as it is shaped just like the bottom of an iron. It is about as flat as one too. It is only maybe 15-18ft high so great for bouldering. Back in the late 1970's it separated the true die hards from the casual stragglers. I am not sure how frequently it gets climbed these days, but anyone who can top it is no lightweight. As it is dead vertical I can only remember a brutal mantle to a single finger hold to get past the crux, but at only 5'-5" everything works differently. A good rotation after this warmup is to lead climb "Sometimes Crack" followed by Top Ropes of "Darcy Wall" then "The End". If you still feel you got some go left, skinny up the "Birchtree Wall" and take a walk. Drink a few cold brewski's and head down to "Mouse Tracks" where you can wow onlookers with a sweet move putting your foot above your head, to a lean back mantle. This a typical day in the life of a DLFA'er.

Jim Rudolph wrote:Yes there are. One of the most famous is the "Flatiron". It is near the top of the boulder field on the East side below "Sometimes Crack". It is called Flatiron as it is shaped just like the bottom of an iron. It is about as flat as one too. It is only maybe 15-18ft high so great for bouldering. Back in the late 1970's it separated the true die hards from the casual stragglers. I am not sure how frequently it gets climbed these days, but anyone who can top it is no lightweight. As it is dead vertical I can only remember a brutal mantle to a single finger hold to get past the crux, but at only 5'-5" everything works differently. A good rotation after this warmup is to lead climb "Sometimes Crack" followed by Top Ropes of "Darcy Wall" then "The End". If you still feel you got some go left, skinny up the "Birchtree Wall" and take a walk. Drink a few cold brewski's and head down to "Mouse Tracks" where you can wow onlookers with a sweet move putting your foot above your head, to a lean back mantle. This a typical day in the life of a DLFA'er.

Bad ass climbers in the day you were... no denying that. Thanks for the history.

Jay Knower wrote:I began climbing at DL in 1994, in the post-DLFA era. I only ever knew DLFA to stand for: Devil's Lake Family Association. For those who feel it necessary to slander DL: Stay in Colorado. I have climbed in your state, and I was not impressed.

Hey Jay,
Who's slandering Devils Lake?
I did a post earlier where I spewed about how Devils Lake has, what I consider, perhaps the best quality stone I've ever climbed on.
What it lacks in height, it make up for in quality.
I miss the old days 1973-1982 when I climbed there.
I had no idea that there was an organization called the Devils Lake Family Association. They should be sued for copyright infringement.
How dare they soil the good name of the Devils Lake Fukness Association!
I'm sorry that your experience in Colorado was so poor.
You should have linked up with the DCCC. They could have showed you where to go.

Tom Hanson wrote: Hey Jay, Who's slandering Devils Lake?

uhh... um... err... that would be me! I hate it! I am not saying that others shouldn't love it though, in fact I said that I was happy that others love it. Keeps more people out of the places that I love.

There are many Midwest climbers with the time and resources to experience climbing in other states, as well as other countries. We like the Lake, but it's only one stop among many.

Jay Knower wrote:Stay in Colorado. I have climbed in your state, and I was not impressed.

heh,heh,heh...

just curious where you climbed when you were out here?

I almost wish I could have seen the DLFA in its heyday. Sometimes, I think Devil's Lake just gets a bad rap. I grew up there and have since moved on to New Hampshire. With my new found distance from the Lake, I have come to appreciate what it really is: a surprisingly good climbing area. Sure, it is no Yosemite or Canyonlands, but it is better than a lot of areas.

Some people really love the Lake (see "Top three reasons you like the Lake" topic on this forum). This forum is for those who appreciate Midwestern climbing (and that is NOT a contradiction in terms). I wouldn't presume to go on the Colorado section of this site and lambast Rifle. It just wouldn't be right.

Here are my top 3 reasons I like the Lake:
1. Can walk from car to climbs in under 15 minutes
2. Top rope anchors are plentiful and easily accessed
3. Cheap beer, and great practice ground for the big walls.

Lead climbing practice is also plentiful but sometimes dangerous as protection can be slim on many routes. The company used to be great back in the '70s and '80s but I can not comment on the last 10 years. Any current climbers--I am curious about today's climate? Party hardy? Boy Scout rappelers, or what? DLFA Forever ...

Boy scouts, girl scouts, YMCA, church groups, college outdoor ed groups. On the whole basically pretty tame and civilized until they hit the state park campground. There tends to be a lot of non-climbers camping at Devil's Lake that produce most of the unruly racket. The climbers I've met have all been, from all outward appearances, pretty respectable.

Dave, you are from Colorado and still you respect other climbing areas. You should be an example for all of those tunnel visioned, dismissive climbers from "Out West."

I'll climb with you anytime, only I will bring the Smartwater and you can have your Guiness.