Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 12, 2006 Administrator: C Miller Elevation: 7,500 feet
Latitude: 34.3124 Longitude: -116.8804
Aerial photo/map | Weather Views: 69,394 page views
The Holcomb Valley Pinnacles are located just north of Big Bear Lake in the eastern end of the scenic Holcomb Valley, an area rich in history and diversions for the outdoor enthusiast. Popular for it's numerous sport routes, this area is a moderate mecca with 75% of the 300+ routes being 5.10 and under in difficulty.
Although the elevation of the Holcomb Valley Pinnacles (HVP) is 7500 feet it's not just a summer climbing area, with good climbing available all year-round depending upon the severity of the winter. Summers can sometimes be hot, making those shady climbs all the more attractive, while early and late season climbing can be ideal with relatively few climbers and few distractions but the sound of the wind in the pines.
The rock at the Pinnacles is a heavily-featured granite that ranges in quality from excellent to fair with the majority of it being quite good. Routes that look difficult often go at a moderate grade because of the highly-featured rock - a good example of this is the popular Coyote Crag.
These directions will get you to the southern parking area, which is recommended if you are driving a low-clearance vehicle, and/or planning on climbing at the southern/central Pinnacles.
Van Dusen Canyon Approach - This, the most popular approach, is up scenic Van Dusen Canyon (3N09) which is quite rocky and sees a fair amount of traffic on the weekends. Just past the pavement's end (about 0.5 miles up) is a gate that gets locked after the first snowfall and that re-opens in the Spring when the road is dry enough.
Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a left (heading west). Drive 0.6 miles, passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on the right, and make a right onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp and several dips in the road (often several feet deep with water in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock.
Baldwin Lake Approach - Useful if coming from the desert via Highway 18 out of Lucerne Valley.
Highway 18 to Big Bear and then make a right (staying on Hwy 18) heading towards Baldwin Lake. Circle around Baldwin Lake (often dry in the summer) and then make a right onto Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09). Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a left (heading west). Drive 0.6 miles, passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on the right, and make a right onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp and several dips in the road (often several feet deep in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock.
Polique Canyon Approach - A faily direct, but bumpy approach that is open all year depending upon the road conditions. This way avoids the traffic of the more popular Van Dusen Canyon and is faster if coming from the west.
Take Polique Canyon Road (2N09) north as it climbs along it's scenic namesake canyon, crest a hill and then descend the backside to a long straightaway which passes a large Boy Scout Camp. Make a right onto 3N16, go up a small rise and make an immediate left onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp and several dips in the road (often several feet deep in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock.
Getting There (Northern Parking Area)
These directions will get you to the northern parking area, which is recommended if you are driving a higher-clearance vehicle, and/or planning on climbing at the central/northern Pinnacles
Van Dusen Canyon Approach - This, the most popular approach, is up scenic Van Dusen Canyon (3N09) which is quite rocky and sees a fair amount of traffic on the weekends. Just past the pavement's end (about 0.5 miles up) is a gate that gets locked after the first snowfall and that re-opens in the Spring when the road is dry enough.
Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a right (heading east). Drive 1.4 miles and make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone.
Baldwin Lake Approach - Useful if coming from the desert via Highway 18 out of Lucerne Valley.
Highway 18 to Big Bear and then make a right (staying on Hwy 18) heading towards Baldwin Lake. Circle around Baldwin Lake (often dry in the summer) and then make a right onto Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09). Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a right (heading east). Drive 1.4 miles and make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone.
Polique Canyon Approach - A faily direct, but bumpy approach that is open all year depending upon the road conditions. This way avoids the traffic of the more popular Van Dusen Canyon and is faster if coming from the west.
Take Polique Canyon Road (2N09) north as it climbs along it's scenic namesake canyon, crest a hill and then descend the backside to a long straightaway which passes a large Boy Scout Camp. Make a right onto 3N16, go up a small rise and continue east (passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on your left) for 1.8 miles until possible to make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone.
Camping
Camping is free and legal almost anywhere in the forest surrounding the Pinnacles, but there are a number of already established campsites near the northern and southern parking areas, as well as scattered sites to the west of Parking Lot Rocks. Fire restrictions are commonly in effect during the summer months, meaning no open fires, but stoves are usually not a problem.
As an alternative there are numerous pay campgrounds in the Big Bear area, with the Holcomb Valley Campground ($14 a night), being the closest to the climbing area.
Climbing Gear
If sport climbing nothing more than a dozen draws are needed and if climbing some of the traditional routes a standard rack to 3" should suffice for the majority of the routes.
Guidebooks
Hidden Treasures, the only comprehensive guidebook for this area, is currently out of print although a revised and updated 2nd edition is currently in the works. Overall a good book if you can find one but be aware that being older many new routes are not included in it and a number of the ratings are suspect.
The Southern California Sport Climbing Guide has a limited amount of information on the area making it more of a "select" guide, but be warned that it's full of errors (and not just the Holcomb Valley section).
Whoever has been bringing their gym friends back into Holcomb Valley needs to remind them of how we behave at the crag. I've noticed various locations in the central pinnacles were people have just recently scratched the grades into the bottom of the climbs. Pretty sad that climbers dont know better. I also just missed someone who wrote PR in big letters in green childrens chalk over coyote crag. Someone should remind these people to change their behavior, because if I were to see this happening, I would love to remind them.
By Jon Leicht From: Santee, CA May 24, 2009 CONDITION REPORT
It looks like they are now requiring Adventure Passes to park / camp at the pinnacles now (and most places in this area as a matter of fact). You can get them at a lot of places locally and at gear shops like A16, but be sure to get one...I saw 11 tickets this morning at Parking Lot Rock alone. May want to update the area description to reflect this...
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca May 25, 2009 CONDITION REPORT
Jon Leicht ""It looks like they are now requiring Adventure Passes to park / camp at the pinnacles now (and most places in this area as a matter of fact). You can get them at a lot of places locally and at gear shops like A16, but be sure to get one...I saw 11 tickets this morning at Parking Lot Rock alone. May want to update the area description to reflect this...""
Thanks for the beads up, but don't pay it, they have no teeth. If one is afraid to just "let it go," take it to court and plead not guilty. Move forward by saying that you were not recreating but rather partaking in spiritual mediation. This whole thing is a farce.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Sep 4, 2006
One of my favorite areas locally in SoCal. I have many happy memories of this place. My only complaint is that some bolts have been placed where natural protection could have been afforded easily.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Apr 28, 2007
With a high concentration of well protected, mostly moderate climbs, this fun area is very unique for many a SoCal climber. Highly recommended for the intermediate climber; with good holds, and great protection, no matter what the grade (e.g., 5.6 through 5.11).
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Aug 6, 2007
Van Dusen Canyon Approach speedometer marks: After turning onto Van Dusen Canyon Rd it's 3.5 miles from pavement's end to 3N16. Head right. We didn't see a sign for 3N16, but it cuts out into an open meadow after a hundred yards or so. 1.5 miles to 3N32 (labeled) and turn left. 1.5 miles to the Northern Parking area (turn left at small rock pile).
Can be done in a regular car up to the narrow boulder passage if driven very carefully. Our subaru had no problem. Depending on your speed it's about 20-35 minutes driving on dirt roads, with only 1.5 miles of somewhat slow driving.
I had a blast here this past weekend. It was my first trip to the area. With loads of moderates, my fiancee was kept happy as well. While we were roped up the whole time, one thing I noticed in particular, was the nearly unlimited and untapped potential for bouldering here. I saw 1000's of boulders, less than 1% of them with developed problems. If someone were motivated to explore and do some minimal cleaning of the boulders this could be a HUGE bouldering area, with lots of quality rock.
By bcsing From: Lake Arrowhead, California Sep 22, 2008
New book to this area and all of the Big Bear Basin called Hidden Treasures East, Rock Climbing in the Big Bear Basin, by Brad Singer available at the Discovery Center in Big Bear or at Nomad Ventures.
Climbing is possible every month of the year as long as you wait a few days after a storm and have 4wd to get back there.
The only way in is via Polique Canyon Road, but in a high snow year (this year might qualify) you might not make it due to accumulated snow on some of the north-facing slopes midway on the drive up the canyon.
Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
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