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Fitzroy Was Here
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.3 from 6
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Routes in Cerro Torre Tower
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80 Proof Roof T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fitzroy Was Here T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kompressor Route, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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SW Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Mark Uphus & Bill Cramer, January 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,226 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Graham Roff on Feb 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The main line up the Cerro Torre tower, this route starts up a finger crack and finishes on some spicy slab/face climbing.
The route starts to the left of the obvious chimney on the tower. Climb up the short finger crack to a ledge. Traverse right on very lose rock to the first bolt, then proceed up and right past three more bolts to the top.
The crux is between the first and second bolt - do not pull too hard on those flakes!
Note that the picture in Vogel's 1992 guide shows the climb going up the wrong side of the tower.
The route starts to the left of the obvious chimney on the tower. Climb up the short finger crack to a ledge. Traverse right on very lose rock to the first bolt, then proceed up and right past three more bolts to the top.
The crux is between the first and second bolt - do not pull too hard on those flakes!
Note that the picture in Vogel's 1992 guide shows the climb going up the wrong side of the tower.
Location
Rappel from the webbing anchor at the top of the chimney down and to the climber's right of the summit. A 60m gets you down for sure, 50m may also work.
Protection
A few pieces of thin gear for the bottom finger crack plus some wider pieces for the anchor. To protect the initial (sketchy) traverse a 3-4" cam can be used on a very long (6') runner.
Watch out for the follower when placing protection on the finger crack, a piece at the top prevents a dangerous swing if they fall pulling the last few moves.
Watch out for the follower when placing protection on the finger crack, a piece at the top prevents a dangerous swing if they fall pulling the last few moves.
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