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The dangerous Dike route on Pywiack. What did we know? Figured it was 5.9, how bad could it be. Rich Perch (bottom of the photo) was the one to find out, as he wandered off the line on the next pitch. Rob Kelly is belaying. The person on the left is on an adjacent route, probably Needle and Spoon 10b, which I followed my brother Paul on in 2002.

The dangerous Dike route on Pywiack. What did we k...

Fairview Dome. The Regular Route, 5.9, starts left of center, left of the smooth rock, and passes the left side of the two huge diagonal roofs.

Fairview Dome. The Regular Route, 5.9, starts left...

P1 5.9 on The Regular Route on Fairview Dome, 2002. I'd always wanted to do this route, one of the Top 50 Most Crowded Climbs, but the stories of long lines scared my away. My brother Paul and I left San Francisco at 2am on a Saturday in September and got to the trailhead at 6am, only to find another car there. We were pretty upset, but we stuffed some food down, grabbed our gear, and took off. As we left, another car pulled in behind us. A short way down the trail, we saw some people sleeping in the woods, the people that were "ahead of us." So we were first on the climb, and had a great experience. Another party had to wait a bit behind us, and complained a bit, but we soon left them behind on the upper pitches.

P1 5.9 on The Regular Route on Fairview Dome, 2002...

P2 5.9 of the Regular Route on Fairview. P1 and P2 are 5.9, and the rest of the pitches gradually get easier.

P2 5.9 of the Regular Route on Fairview. P1 and P2...

Looking down from high on P2 of the Regular Route on Fairview. The part at the bottom is at the start of the route. The slab below them is low angle and easily hiked/scrambled. The party above is starting P2.

Looking down from high on P2 of the Regular Route ...

On the summit of the Regular Route on Fairview. We were pretty quick, and simulclimbed the last few pitches. We were on the top around noon, and then descended and did a couple more pitches elsewhere. Paul's on the left.

On the summit of the Regular Route on Fairview. We...

The view from the top of the Regular Route of Fairview, looking northwest. I think the dome beyond the meadow is Lamb Dome. The highway follows the creek through the meadow.

The view from the top of the Regular Route of Fair...