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Grand Teton National Park


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Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Mar 6, 2006
Latitude: 43.7407  Longitude: -110.8030 
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Grand Teton, storm.
Photo by Blitzo.



Description 

Grand Teton National Park offers the climber an array of climbing types, positions, settings and conditions. There's everything from two-pitch sunny crag adventures to mixed alpine endurance testpieces. A more detailed description of the climbing character can be found in the descriptions of each area.


Getting There 

Grand Teton National Park is located about 10 miles north of Jackson, WY. Directions to specific trailheads can be found in the individual areas.


Nearby Climbing 

When visiting the Tetons, you might want to check out some of the other local climbing. The nearby climbing generally has less of a commitment factor, and is good for "rest" days or in questionable weather. Check out the Jackson Hole section for information on other climbing in the area.

And if the weather goes south but you still want to climb, be sure to check out Jackson Hole's new full-service climbing gym - The Enclosure Indoor Climbing Center . Over 10,000 sqft of sweet climbing wall at the foot of the Tetons.


Resources 

Grand Teton National Park - official website of the park service

Climbing Conditions Blog run by the GTNP Climbing Rangers

Jackson Hole Mountain Weather - local weatherman's forecast for the Jackson Hole area and mountains. As accurate as you'll find for the Teton range.

Teton Web Cam - from the east

Another Teton Web Cam - from the west

Jackson Hole Avalanche Forecast - only updated in winter


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grand Teton National Park:
Southwest Couloir   3rd     Trad, Alpine, 4000 feet, Grade II   Middle Teton
East Face   4th Easy Snow     Snow, Alpine, Grade III   Teewinot
Owen Spalding   5.4     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1560 feet, Grade II   Grand Teton
Upper Exum Ridge   5.5     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 4000 feet, Grade II   Grand Teton
CMC Route   5.5     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade II   Mount Moran
East Ridge   5.6     Trad, Alpine, 500 feet   Disappointment Peak
Lower Exum Ridge   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet   Grand Teton
Direct Petzoldt Ridge   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III   Grand Teton
North Ridge   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV   Grand Teton
North Face Highlight Tour   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV   Grand Teton
Guide's Wall   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade II   Cascade Canyon
Irene's Arete   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade III   Disappointment Peak
Baxter's Pinnacle - South Ridge   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400 feet   Cascade Canyon
No Perches Necessary   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 160 feet, Grade II   Cascade Canyon
Open Book   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Disappointment Peak
Beyer East Face I   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   Grand Teton
The Snaz   5.10a     Trad, Alpine, Grade IV   Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress
Caveat Emptor   5.10-     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress
Sunshine Daydream   5.11-     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV   Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress
South Buttress Right, Mt. Moran   5.11     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 750 feet, Grade IV   Mount Moran
Browse More Classics in Grand Teton National Park

Featured Route For Grand Teton National Park
Jason Sloan near one of the cruxes.

Blacktail Boulder Traverse 5.12 V5  WY : Grand Teton National Park : ... : Lower Blacktail Butte
This tricky traverse boasts perhaps the shortest approach in Jackson. A huge array of big, polished holds promote a number of sequences at the many cruxes. Everybody seems to have their own way to go. A fun way to get a deep pump. Character is way different than the less-steep edges of Lower Blacktail....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY


Photos of Grand Teton National Park Slideshow Add Photo
Looking south from the Grand Teton summit. From right to left: Middle Teton, South Teton, Icecream Cone, Spalding Peak, Gilkey Tower, Cloudveil Dome, Nez Perce. The two big peaks in the background are Mt. Wister and Buck Mountain.

BETA PHOTO: Looking south from the Grand Teton summit. From ri...

S. Cathedral Group

S. Cathedral Group

N. Cathedral Group

N. Cathedral Group

Spousal Unit looking into Idaho from the lower saddle on the Grand, July 2003

Spousal Unit looking into Idaho from the lower sad...

Jenny Lake Stream @ Sunset

Jenny Lake Stream @ Sunset

Tetons.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Tetons.
Photo by Blitzo.


Snake River and Grand Tetons, winter.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

Snake River and Grand Tetons, winter.
Photo by Bli...


Tetons from the air (17,000 feet) during a mid-winter sunrise.

Tetons from the air (17,000 feet) during a mid-win...

From Antelope Flats

From Antelope Flats

Middle Teton via Garnet Canyon

Middle Teton via Garnet Canyon

Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail<br />photo: Christian Baird.<br />

BETA PHOTO: Middle Teton from Garnet Canyon trail
photo: Chris...


Sunrise on the 3 Beauties. Time to Play

Sunrise on the 3 Beauties. Time to Play

Tetons in the mist

Tetons in the mist

Morning Sun

Morning Sun

The Grand Teton facing North from the Lower Saddle

BETA PHOTO: The Grand Teton facing North from the Lower Saddle

Sunset on the Tetons, GTNP, WY.

Sunset on the Tetons, GTNP, WY.

How to really enjoy the Tetons...

How to really enjoy the Tetons...

The moose I nearly ran into on the horse trail, Jenny Lake. GTNP, July 2008

The moose I nearly ran into on the horse trail, Je...

Current conditions as of 8-1-08.<br /><br />Taken for Teewee summit

BETA PHOTO: Current conditions as of 8-1-08.

Taken for Teewee...


By moose junction...

By moose junction...

The rappel out of the north entrance of GTNP can actually be safely done with just one 8-meter rope.

The rappel out of the north entrance of GTNP can a...

Bull bison on the plain below the Tetons.

Bull bison on the plain below the Tetons.

They are so Grand.

They are so Grand.

Mt Moran from Leigh Lake

Mt Moran from Leigh Lake

Looking south from Teewinot

BETA PHOTO: Looking south from Teewinot

Cathedral Group

Cathedral Group

Teton moonrise.

Teton moonrise.

Tetons from the west in Jan.

Tetons from the west in Jan.

Teton cloudscape.

Teton cloudscape.

Grand Teton and Owen from the northwest, in a very dry August. Virtually no snow at all in Valhalla, and nothing in the Black Ice. Scrufty.

Grand Teton and Owen from the northwest, in a very...

Meadows campsite in Garnet Canyon.

Meadows campsite in Garnet Canyon.

Just a nice picture of Nez Perce (left) and the Middle Teton from the trail in Garnet Canyon.  July of 2005

Just a nice picture of Nez Perce (left) and the Mi...

Sunrise over Teewinot

Sunrise over Teewinot

Nez Perce

Nez Perce

Mid-October '09 view from Baxter's.

Mid-October '09 view from Baxter's.

Grand Teton Range from Mormon Row.  Sep 2007.  Photo by Andy Knell

Grand Teton Range from Mormon Row. Sep 2007. Pho...


Comments on Grand Teton National Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By Buff Johnson
From: Coniferous, CO
Mar 8, 2006

This area has amazing rock quality, and is also a mix of great hiking. My best experiences here were planning on car-to-car outings without hauling all the overnight stuff. I seem to end up at Mountain High Pizza for some good grub after an outing. Staying at the AAC Climber's Ranch is a good way to get more info about conditions from others that have come back - we avoided two verglas epics by doing this.

Also, going to the ranger's station @ Jenny Lake is also good to talk with them.

By Forest
Jul 7, 2007

Baxter's Pinnacle :: On or about June 25, 2007, Sam Lightner and I replaced the rap anchor on Baxter's Pinnacle. The old anchor consisted of 2 pitons and a star bolt "equalized" with webbing. (In truth, all the force of the rappel was on 1 piton) We removed both pitons and all the webbing and replaced with 2 stainless bolts with chain. One a 3/8 and one a 1/2, both drilled by hand. Should be noted that one of the pitons, the one bearing the rap force, pulled out by hand and the other came out without a fight. We left the star bolt as a bit of historical artifact. Special thanks to ASCA for donating the hardware. Enjoy.

Forest Dramis

By jerome
Jul 5, 2009

Thanks forest for replacing those pins , I enjoy those bomber rap bolts every time I do baxters. If anyone ends up in the north gulley decent they will ,appreciate the bolts off the summit pinnacle as there is a lone quarter inch to rap off. And I work at mountain high pizza ,but I wouldn't say the grub is good, unless you spent a day in the hills,

By Spencer Purvis
From: Jackson, Ms.
Sep 6, 2009

I thought I should take this chance to plug the accommodations at the American Alpine Club Climber's Ranch. I spent six nights this past August at the Ranch and had a blast hanging out with a variety of diverse and friendly climbers. It is an affordable option with all the resources a Teton climber could need, including a fine library, wi-fi weather updates, great showers and a true climber's kitchen. It was a great place to visit with climbers as they filed in after their various climbs. You can always find someone willing to help with tricky approaches or beta for the climb and descent routes. The only drawback is that the cabins can be somewhat noisy with climbers on different schedules. Still, I would encourage any climber to take advantage of this resource and support the ranch.