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Colorado Springs

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Air Force Academy 
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Mt. Herman's Baby James Bouldering area 
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Old Stage Road 
Pangborn's Pinnacle 
Pike's Peak 
Rampart Park 
Red Rock Canyon Open Space 
Ruxton Canyon, Manitou Springs 
Sentinel and Specimen Rocks 
Stanley Canyon 
Tenney Crag 
Ute Pass 
Ute Valley Park 
William's Canyon 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Nice Kitty
A relentless climb with nice scenery to get you up to the Colorado Trail. Near Castle Rock, CO
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Colorado Springs  


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Elevation: 6,600'
Location: 38.8269, -104.793 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,479,435
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John McNamee on Feb 25, 2006
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Best routes for YOU in this area
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Harvey T. Carter gets to be in the Garden forever....

Introduction 

This is a work in progress

Colorado Springs is a mid-sized city located just east of the geographic center of the state of Colorado in the United States. It has a population of approximately 370,000 and is the third largest city in Colorado. At elevation 6,035 feet, it is situated near the base of one of the most famous American peaks, Pikes Peak (14,110'), on the east side of the Rocky Mountains. The capital of Colorado, Denver, is 68 miles to the north.

For climbers, the appeal of Colorado Springs is that it has many features of a modern urban area, such as parks, bike trails, urban open-area spaces, business and commerce, theatres and other entertainments. It was established as a posh resort community, and the tourist industry is strong and offers many activities and attractions. It is the number one destination for Colorado tourism. There are a number of military installations in the area, high-tech industry, and many Christian organizations and churches make their headquarters there.

If you are thinking of moving there, check out this link for Colorado Spring Stats.

Getting There 

If you have problems finding Colorado Springs, perhaps you shouldn't go climbing. The Springs as locals call it is 70 miles south of Denver on I-25, at the base of Pikes Peak.

To help you get around the Springs, click on the Colorado Springs Map.

For out of town folks, there is a modest-sized, quiet airport located SE of town.

Resources 

In the Springs go with La Casita (US 24 and 8th street as you get back into town, about a mile before I-25 is a pink, converted garage on your right) or Il Vicino (Downtown on Tejon between Colorado and Pikes Peak (local gear shop Mountain Chalet is just three blocks north).

Vic's brews their own beer, but suds are definitely also available at Kinfolks in Manitou. In case you got chased off the Pericle or Four Mile Dome, Kinfolks has conveniently combined bar and gear shop in one so you can replace your gear and stop your hands from shaking so.

If you need coffee in the morning to quell the shakes, hit Boulder St Roasters (Tejon next block north of Mountain Chalet) or Wooglins (Tejon just five blocks further north). Basically, everything you need is on Tejon. If climbing up on the Rampart range road or any of the outlying areas early morning coffee and monster dounuts can be had at the dounut mill in woodland park. It's located on the north side of US 24 about 1/2 way through town.

Between Garden of the Gods & Red Rocks Open Space, you can find a hearty meal at the Mason Jar near Colorado Ave & 30th St.

Weather 

Note, this area is located at the foot of a 14,110 ft peak with plenty of foothills just to the west. Of note, you should be aware that weather can be dramatically different than that in its neighboring community just 70 miles to the north. You can use the NOAA website to check on forecasts.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.1 miles from here

448 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',110],['2 Stars',222],['1 Star',76],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',40],['5.7',35],['5.8',42],['5.9',56],['5.10',81],['5.11',42],['5.12',15],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',36],['V2-3',43],['V4-5',26],['V6-7',15],['V8-9',10],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',2],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Colorado Springs:
North Face aka Wedgie and The Cube Problem   V5 6C     Boulder   South Side Area : Cube Boulder
Floater aka Center Route   V5 6C     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Chick Power   V7 7A+     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Unknown V7 aka Slapper   V7-8 7B     Boulder, 12'   The Snake Pit Area : Mongoose Block
Pungase   V7-8 7B     Boulder   South Side Area : Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Low Traverse into Slapper   V9 7C     Boulder, 20'   The Snake Pit Area : Mongoose Block
The Army Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 4 pitches   North Cheyenne Canyon : The Pinnacle
Potholes   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Twin Spires : Red Twin
North Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower
New Era   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 270'   Kindergarten Rock : East Face
Crack Parallel   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport   North Cheyenne Canyon : West Face (The Pinnacle Wes...
West Point Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 3 pitches   South Gateway Rock : West Side
End of an Era   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Kindergarten Rock : East Face
The Martyr   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 300'   Old Stage Road : Saint Peter's Overlook
Credibility Gap   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches   South Gateway Rock : West Side
Pearly Gates   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   Old Stage Road : Saint Peter's Overlook
Re-Thinking the Ethics   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall
Footloose 'N' Fancy Free   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Kindergarten Rock : West Face
Diesel and Dust   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 2 pitches   Kindergarten Rock : East Face
Anaconda   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   North Gateway Rock : North Face / North End
Browse More Classics in Colorado Springs

Featured Route For Colorado Springs
View from the west.

Pearly Gates 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Saint Peter's Overlook
Pearly Gates is the namesake route on the Pearly Gates formation. This formation is a very attractive 250' long slab just west of the Aiguille de St. Peter (The Martyr) and is clearly visible from its summit.The (two) climbs on this slab start from a bolted belay on a ledge about 75' off the ground and are best approached by scrambling down the gully just West of the Aiguille de St. Peter. As you're heading down, head left around onto the face as soon as you are able and you'll see this ledge....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Colorado Springs Slideshow Add Photo
Ed Pearsall following Tomorrowland (5.12d), Dome R...
Ed Pearsall following Tomorrowland (5.12d), Dome R...
Colorado Springs and Pike's Peak.
Colorado Springs and Pike's Peak.
Me at the top on a 11d finger crack, Cascade.
Me at the top on a 11d finger crack, Cascade.

Comments on Colorado Springs Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 20, 2014
By Sean McGovern
Oct 19, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 
FYI, Rampart Range Road is open. I am new to the area, so I was very excited to check out some of the areas accessed on this road. Unfortunately, William's Canyon and the mini-crag nearby are still blacked out on the Forest Service map, which they have a couple of miles in, as off-limits. Additionally, a sign is posted in front of one of the trails.
By Rob Powell
Jul 21, 2007
Does anyone have any beta on Barney's Dome? I hike up there last fall and it has a handful of beautiful lines. I'm sure they'be all been climbed, but it's obvious it sees very little traffic.
By Nelson
From: FT Carson
Aug 17, 2007
How do you get to that dome, Rob?
By Rob Powell
Jun 28, 2008
I botched it on the way up. I went up from the same road that access Ute pass boulders. I thought this would work well, but the trail dead ends at the saddle and then its a total bushwack. On the way out we found a trail that will lead you to the top of the Heizer trail. The Heizer trail starts in Cascade.
Walk up the main street for 100 yrds from the hwy 24 stop light. Turn left at the first street. Go a few hundred more yards and take your next 1st left. Walk up this to a sharp right hand switchback. The trail head leaves from the switch back on the left side of the road. Walk up the Heizer trail for about 45min- hour. You will pop over the top, drop down a little and then there is a fait trail that splits left and walks along a ridge (south east) all the way to Barney's dome. If you eventually hit a road, then you missed the left turn.
There's a big right hand dihedral that splits the entire north face. It looks to be 2-3 pitches and is capped with a pretty big roof (and not a lot of obvious gear at the roof if I recall. There is a faint climbers trail 20-30 ft below the base of the dome.
By Jacob Richey
Aug 13, 2008
I read somewhere that normal chalk is not allowed in Garden of the Gods as well as Red Rock Canyon. I also read that climbers must get a permit from the city in order to climb, is any of this true or enforced?
By abc
Aug 13, 2008
Jacob, both are true. You can pick up a permit at the visitor center and the chalk at Mt. Chalet.
By Amy Haessly
Jun 20, 2009
I am looking to catch a ride to Telluride sometime this week. Anyone out there headed that way?
By Andrew James C
From: Portland, OR
Sep 15, 2009
I was reading the guide Stewart Green put out about the Pike's Peak area, and he seemed pretty positive about Williams Canyon. How come it's not listed here? Is the climbing that chossy?
By Stewart M. Green
Sep 15, 2009
Williams Canyon is not everyone's cup of tea. It's adventure sport climbing at its finest! Be prepared for the finest choss in the Pikes Peak region. You got to love loose, flakey limestone with tottering pillars, removable handholds, and rotten rock to climb at Williams. Ian and I did 20 or more routes here. Even a big one on The Temple, a massive 200-foot overhanging wall. Bring a helmet and a sense of adventure...if the place cleaned up, some of the routes are a lot like American Fork in Utah.
By Andrew James C
From: Portland, OR
Sep 21, 2009
I made my way to the top of the Manitou incline today and found what seemed to me like some pretty awesome bouldering but no evidence anythings been climbed. The approach is insane, but I'm thinking of hauling my crash pad up there to start working and cleaning some problems. Has anyone had the same thoughts for this area?
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Sep 21, 2009
Yep, looked at it. I bet it's been done before. Everything has.
By Stewart M. Green
Oct 25, 2009
Yeah, the boulders and little cliffs on top of Mt Manitou and Rocky Mountain. I went up there a lot in the late 1970s and early 1980s with Steve Cheyney, Jim Dunn, Brian Teale, and few other guys. Bouldered our brains out on that great PP granite. Mark Hesse did some roped routes on the bigger stuff there. Harvey Carter also climbed up there too in the 1960s. We also did problems on the best trailside boulders on the hike up Barr Trail and along the Manitou watershed road above Ute Pass Boulders. In fact, there's an awesome splitter 5.12 finger crack up there on a block of granite. So like Phil says, it's been climbed on already. But the great thing is that, like so much rock in the PP region, you can climb and boulder and it all feels new...and that's a good thing!
By Ryan Flynn
From: Maple Valley, WA
Apr 17, 2010
A few important notices for climbers wishing to climbing in Colorado Springs:

The City of Colorado Springs requires every climber to register annually at the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center.

The use of chalk (with calcium carbonate) is prohibited, and a chalk substitute must be used instead.

I am not sure of the penalty for failure to comply with these regulations, but I am told it is a fine of around $500. For complete information please see the City of Colorado Springs Technical Rock Climbing Regulations and Guidelines page.
By Unassigned User
Apr 22, 2011
I just got my $1200 camera (Sony A-350) stolen from Ute Valley. I don't know how the f%$k they got away with it. I wasn't more then 20ft away from it the whole time. If find the mother f^%ker who stole it, I'm going to jail with then. If you have any info, let me know. Fat cash reward!
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Aug 20, 2012
My favorite part of the CO Spgs climbing experience is the reticent nature of the long time locals. I got one to remain nameless local to scan in a few hand drawn topos of some obscure multi-pitch areas, all of which had been copied so many times they are almost illegible. I had to almost promise my first born son and internet pinky promise to never post said topos on the web to get that info. Even published stuff for off-the beaten path routes is reminiscent of alpine climbing ("ascend the obvious couloir..." type stuff) including topos that don't seem to match reality. It is amazing that an area with so many talented climbers through the decades has remained obscure enough that as Stewart Green says, every ascent feels like an FA! Talk about a nonhomogeneous, local climbing culture we would all do well to respect. Keep it up, y'all!
By GarrisonH
Apr 3, 2013
Anyone know much about routes and boulders around Mt. Herman? I was doing some exploring recently and found some climbed lines. I have found minimal information online. Any reason not to further document and publicize this area? The boulders at least.
By Rob goldsmith
May 17, 2013
Hey all,
I am planning a trip with a couple of mates to the Springs around November for some climbing. There are some caveats for this trip. Firstly, I am from Australia, and secondly, I know no one from CO Springs area to climb with and/or to show us around whilst in the Springs. Can anyone help out with some local tips and hopefully some guidance whilst we are in your fair state?
Cheers,
Rob
By chadgoingup
From: Crested Butte
Jun 22, 2013
Hi there,

I'm coming out from Crested Butte to the Front Range. I'll be in the Springs tomorrow Sunday June 23. Looking to hit the rock all day. Trad, sport whatever's clever. Contact me if you wanna go....
By Dirt Fly
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Mar 16, 2014
Hey guys, new to the area, looking for some pals to boulder with, climb with sport\top\lead. I have all my own gear. Male, 22, name's Matt.
By Carly K.
3 days ago
Taking a trip down to Garden of the Gods for the weekend. Know it's late season, but was hoping to find a good place to tent camp Saturday night. Any advice?