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By The Gray Tradster
Nov 22, 2012
AKA Princess Ropegun
The advantage to protecting it this way is the gear and rope aren't under foot and in your way.
Aug 11, 2014
I'd wager to say that the next time this climber does the route he takes about 1/3rd the gear...THAT is a huge rack or a 100 foot climb, and hauling that much weight up the lower crux must have been...well...good exercise! I like doing the route in two pitches for two reasons: #1) You are always close to each other, so communication and the "shared experience" are enhanced, #2) You need to take less gear on each pitch, and a light rack makes climbing easier and less cumbersome.Here's what I bring for each pitch, leaving the rest for the second to bring: P1...to the tree
Fist of Med. Stoppers (nothing smaller than a #5)
Doubles Camalot #.5,#1...one #2 (Or #2 & triple #3 with a #4 TCU)
P2...to the top...(save some 1" & 2" gear for the top belay)
Over the shoulder runners (2-3)
#2 & #3 Camalots for the crack below roof (double these if insecure)
A #8 hex fits well in the bottom of the crack just off the tree
#11 stopper fits great at the lip of roof
KEY!! Make sure to extend the last piece in the crack below the roof, especially if you chose to place it way up the crack. Otherwise, you will be hauling a lot of friction from above as you take in rope for the second...Just sayin'...You gauge your needs, but there is no need to bring a big wall rack on this route.
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