Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
South Platte
Sterling Accessory Cords

$68.81 39% off

$41.29

at DeptOfGoods

46    more...
Grivel Air Tech Crampon Spare Parts

$72.95 20% off

$58.36

at Backcountry

8    more...
Sugoi Evolution Bike Short - Women's

$89.99 20% off

$71.99

at AlsSports

6    more...
Evolv Demorto Climbing Shoe

$119.95 40% off

$71.97

at Backcountry

96    more...
Petzl Universo - Belay Package

$46.95 25% off

$35.21

at Backcountry

4    more...
38 in Glue Capsules 10 Pk.

$45.59 25% off

$34.19

at CampSaver

42    more...
Metolius Monster 9.2mm Dry Rope- 100m

$364.95 34% off

$237.22

at Backcountry

21    more...
The North Face Footprint for Minibus 2

$44.99 33% off

$29.99

at AlsSports

37    more...
Siren Harness - Women's

$69.95 29% off

$48.97

at CampSaver

2    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Select Area...
Big Rock Candy Mountain 
Buffalo Creek 
Castle View Crags & Boulders 
Cathedral Spires Area 
Daniels Park 
Deckers 
Devil's Head 
Elevenmile Canyon 
Elevenmile Reservoir 
Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Campground 
Noddle Heads 
North Turkey Creek Crags 
Pine Area 
Rampart Range Road 
Saylor Park Boulders 
Staunton State Park 
Terryall State Park? Valley of Chickens? 
Tick Dome 
Turkey Rocks 
Turret, The 
West Creek 
Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wilderness 
Woodland Park Boulders (The Corridor) 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Colorado Trail: Kenosha Pass to Georgia Pass
The most commonly ridden trail from Kenosha Pass to Georgia Pass - a front range gem! Near Blue River, CO
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

South Platte 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 39.4171, -105.469 Map
Page Views: 3,061,216. Good page? (12 likes)   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: John McNamee on Feb 16, 2006

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
Guidebooks (5)
 Printer View

Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
Clear
90° | 41°
Clear
84° | 41°
Clear
86° | 39°
Mostly Cloudy
81° | 39°
Mostly Cloudy
81° | 41°

Classic South Platte Climbing - Big Rock Candy Mou...

Introduction 

The South Platte, a vast granite playground to the south and west of Denver, is known for it's incredible crack climbs, strung out slabs and towering summits. It encompasses the entire area between Conifer, and Sedalia, and just about everything south to the Elevenmile Canyon west of Colorado Springs.

To climb successfully in the South Platte it helps to be the adventurous type and like exploring. Many of them are well hidden until you stumble upon them! The rock quality can vary widely from bullet proof fine grained granite to very coarse friable rock which can feel like climbing on ball bearings at times.

Bring a well-rounded rack of cams, some routes eat up double or triples in some sizes, and don't forget to bring a few big pieces. Tape gloves are a good idea at a lot of these spots too, otherwise your hands will get trashed.

Some of the most popular areas with easy access and good quality rock can be found at:

Cathedral Spires Area
The Cathedral Spires group is a crack climbers paradise with also the "slab masters" crag, The Dome as well. Approaches are usually 45 minutes to an hour.

Devil's Head
Lots of three star routes, both trad and sport. Lots of recent development in the higher end grades. The rock is of exceptional quality.

Elevenmile Canyon
Elevenmile Canyon has some of the best moderate grade multi-pitch climbs around, as well as recent sport route development. A popular destination for a couple of days of camping and climbing. Elevenmile Canyon is subject to a per day entrance fee.

Pine Area
Home of the famous Sphinx Crack. Fortunately there is a heap of more moderate routes as well. Sphinix Rock and Squat Rock are currently closed.

Turkey Rocks
Got a trip to Yosemite coming up, then hit the cracks at Turkey rocks. Some of Colorado's best granite crack climbing.

West Creek
Includes Sheep's Nose and smaller crags.


Getting There 

Please refer to the individual areas for detailed information on how to get there. Always bring a good map when traveling in the Platte!


Resources 

The updated book "Climb" published by The Mountaineer's Books has one comprehensive chapter on the history of climbing in the south platte starting with Ellingworth's ascent of the Bishop in 1924 and covering historical first ascents of Sphinx Crack, The Prayer Book (Wunsch's) and Field of Dreams.

Recommended guidebooks:

South Platte, The Climbers Guide. (Peter Hubbel)
Comprehensive coverage of the South Platte.

South Platte Rock, (Ken Trout)
A selection of the best routes the South Platte has to offer.

Rock Climbing Colorado, (Stewart M. Green)
A state wide guide book that covers several of the more popular areas. A great book if you are visiting the state for a few weeks and want an overall reference.

Please see the Colorado book listings for further details.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Platte:
The Staircase   5.5     Trad, 2 pitches   Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock
Classic Dihedral   5.7     Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet   Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab
Left Handed Jew   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch
Steppenwolf   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch   Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch
Lost in Space   5.9     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III   West Creek : Sheep's Nose
Gobbler's Grunt   5.9     Trad, 3 pitches   Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock
Turkey Foot Crack   5.9     Trad   Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall
Center Route   5.9+     Trad, 3 pitches   Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle
Straw Turkey   5.10a     Trad, 3 pitches   Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock
Topographical Oceans   5.10b     Trad, 4 pitches, 250 feet   Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome
Quivering Quill   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch   Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail
Reptile Tears   5.10+     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall
Drumstick Direct   5.10+     Trad, 2 pitches   Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail
Vanishing Point   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch   Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock
Whimsical Dreams   5.11-     Trad, 1 pitch   Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail
Wunsch's Dihedral   5.11     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III   Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle
Childhood's End   5.12- R     Trad, Sport, 12 pitches, 1000 feet   Big Rock Candy Mountain
Bishop Crack   5.12c     Trad, 1 pitch   Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop
Starlight   5.12d     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon
Sphinx Crack   5.13b     Trad   Pine Area : Sphinx Rock
Browse More Classics in South Platte

Featured Route For South Platte
Andy Donson, Buffalo Soldier.

Buffalo Soldier 5.10b R  CO : South Platte : ... : Helen's Dome
To find this route, locate the directions for "Fool's Gold", listed on this site. Approximately 20 feet to the left is a line of bolts. This is the first line of bolts that you will see when going left from "Fool's Gold".First bolt is pretty high, but supposedly somebody added it fairly recently. If that is indeed the case, the old first bolt was up in minor cratering territory.Climb straight up the line of bolts with sustained climbing on superb small edges and flak...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of South Platte Slideshow Add Photo
New boulder problems in the South Platte. FA here lots of things like this

New boulder problems in the South Platte. FA here ...

Another new boulder problems in the South Platte. FA here

Another new boulder problems in the South Platte. ...

Found this rock between FS Road 550 and Asshole Rock. The crack is 5.8 or 5.9. It's pretty short but fun.

BETA PHOTO: Found this rock between FS Road 550 and Asshole Ro...

Platte legend Dave Bell actually on the Platte beneath Big Rock shortly before his death. Noel Childs and Byron Nelson flank him

Platte legend Dave Bell actually on the Platte ben...

Charles in 1979 after a very scary 11+ traverse that had a real bad fall if blown (for both of us). I repeated this climb last summer (2007) and a bolt has appeared smack under the crux pinch move. Wimps!

Charles in 1979 after a very scary 11+ traverse th...

A real good South Platte rock. Lots of routes on this one.

A real good South Platte rock. Lots of routes on t...

Buffalo Creek fire from Lake Wellington. Wild day to be on the Castle as the fire grew and grew.

Buffalo Creek fire from Lake Wellington. Wild day ...

South Platte post-fire.

South Platte post-fire.

Andy Koken bouldering north of Sheep Nose.

Andy Koken bouldering north of Sheep Nose.

The Bucksnort. Serving climbers for 25 years.

The Bucksnort. Serving climbers for 25 years.

Good coffee and good eats at Cindy Green's Elephant Rock Cafe in Pine.

Good coffee and good eats at Cindy Green's Elephan...

Green's Store in Buffalo Creek is a great place to buy a cold Coke, fishing lures, huge cuts of meat, and when I was a kid Dupont blasting caps! Don't forget to say Howdy to Mr. Green.

Green's Store in Buffalo Creek is a great place to...

Great food and beer at Zoka's in Pine. Menu changes daily. Curt the owner is going to show some climbing films this summer to lure, like trout, climbers out of the Platte and into a restaurant.

Great food and beer at Zoka's in Pine. Menu change...

Great apres climbing opportunities in the Platte.

Great apres climbing opportunities in the Platte.

Just another un-named rock with bolts and anchors.  They're all over.

Just another un-named rock with bolts and anchors....

Old campsite off the beaten path - I love stumbling upon these old sites as I always envision a group of S. Platte pioneers sitting around the camp fire, slugging beers and talking about the day and the day to come.  Maybe this and other sites I've come across weren't even developed by climbers, but they always seem to show up near big rocks, so that's where my mind goes.  *Note the pile of cut logs waiting for the occupants to return.

Old campsite off the beaten path - I love stumblin...

Rope... $200 <br />Rack... $500 <br />Climbing excellent granite to escape a flash flood... PRICELESS!

Rope... $200
Rack... $500
Climbing excellent grani...


Found this last night. All hail Dave.

Found this last night. All hail Dave.

Typical Platte.

Typical Platte.

Karen's card.

Karen's card.

There's just a little bit of rock out there....

There's just a little bit of rock out there....

One of the many pleasures of the Platte.

One of the many pleasures of the Platte.

A friend and I hiked to the dome on the left from Radio Head in Rampart Range. Does anyone know what dome that is and if there is an easier way to access it?

A friend and I hiked to the dome on the left from ...

Found this random piece of salt and pepper granite randomly in the middle of the South Platte during a hike. No stone anywhere around there like it. Wtf?

Found this random piece of salt and pepper granite...

Cabin Ridge from a valley hillside.

Cabin Ridge from a valley hillside.

Just found this tonight.

Just found this tonight.

This is at Sheep's Nose. Just before Air Jordan Boulder.

This is at Sheep's Nose. Just before Air Jordan Bo...

Best granite in the Platte is on an unknown dome, and I would know, trust me. Actual knob climbing on bullet granite. Two routes on it so far. Room for many many others. Go find it!

Best granite in the Platte is on an unknown dome, ...


Comments on South Platte Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 22, 2012
By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 30, 2002

Here is link from the Forest Circus that gives some fire closure information:www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/news/pike_opening.htmThe best I can extract from it is that the Pike National Forest is open for recreational uses except for the area indicated on the map, which seems to cover just about all of the climbing in the SPlatte. Some of the southernmost areas may still be open, but I'd have to do some checking to be sure of that.

By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Oct 15, 2002

We did Bishop Jaeggers on the Dome a couple weeks back, and my partner lead. It was all there, but, you wouldnt want to fall off some of those spicier runouts! Topographical Oceans looks nice as well. The bolts are older, and far enough apart to be concerning.One interesting thing was that the rock seems bigger than it looks as it is less than vertical, and keeps going... Staying on your toes seemed to be the key!

By JD Mitch
Jul 29, 2003

The platte rocks are outstanding. Despite the hayman fire and the idiodic bolt wars. I have climbed there over ten years. I have read many of the comments as to the guide book, and I suggest that if you have a problem finding areas and lack the paitence to seek them out, I suggest you head up to Eldo or Clear creek canyon for roadside climbs. Enjoy your time in the platte. My opinion is you deffinately have to stop at the Bucksnort for brews and big talk afterwords.

By William McGehee
From: Choctaw, OK
May 11, 2004

I just got off the phone with a Ranger from the South Platte District. Looks like no camping in the "nice" places at S.P. Most established campgrounds are still closed, save a few such as the Lone Rock and Platte River campgrounds. They're open, but likely to be busy on the weekends. They're pretty far from the fun rocks anyway, so who needs them??? She encouraged dispersed camping, which means anywhere you want. No fire restrictions, but watch out for rains. They COULD bring about floods due to the lack of vegitation right now. Camp high... Also, since Cathedral is closed until the end of July, Turkey seems to be the most viable option for climbing. To get there at this time, park at the intersection of 360 and 68. DO NOT PARK in the subdivisions down the road. You'll get in trouble. The Ranger said to bring a mountain bike and ride the last mile and a half in with your gear. That's what most people do apparently. Hope this helps! Any more questions, you call them yourself at 303-275-5610.~Wm

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 19, 2004

There are a couple more guidebooks for this area besides the 'Climbing Colorado'. South Platte guide written by Peter Hubbel (chockstone press) Includes much more rocks and routes. But bewares of Peter's obvious drug habit during the writing of this book. My partner and I have found many flaws in the info of this book during our south platte travels. All in all it's the most comprehensive guide to this great area.

ps. Many restrictions due to fires have been lifted but be carefull of flash floods during the spring!

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 21, 2004

Dont be so presumptuous, coward, about the drug habit accusations. How about YOU try to put together a guide book of the entire South Platte, with no errors!? The splatte is still pretty wild, and sometimes tricky to get around. Good thing that there is plenty of beta on areas and climbs that Pete chose to leave out to keep bitchy climbers like yourself away.

By Mike b.
Oct 23, 2004

I was not registered at the time I left the previous comment about the south Platte guide book info. I apologize for the "drug habit" and I appreciate your view that some info should be omitted to keep "bitchy "climbers out of the Platte before it gets too populated. I feel the same way but, sometimes we have to ask ourselves which is better in a guide, wrong info or no info.There is no doubt in my mind that Peter has much more knowledge of the Platte and I don't dispute the fact that a guidebook is a huge undertaking and mistakes will be made. But when the maps to many climbs are blatantly wrong, it causes problems. There is also an older guidebook that Mr. Hubbel was also a part of that in a lot of cases has better info. The purpose of my message was to inform others of the existence of the guide and to warn them to be careful because there are flaws. With this said,just let me say that I would have never have been able to find some of the best rock I have ever pulled down on without this guide. Darren, lighten up man, it's just rock climbing! Sincerely, "The bitchy little coward" aka Mike b.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 19, 2005

Beware! The Colorado Rock Climbs guide book has a lot of bunk info about the South Platte area--very easy to get lost (while driving) in and around rampart road. Get the area specific guide book, or better yet, get a local with some knowledge. Also, there is a lot of crumbly/ loose rock in the area, so bring a helmet and some competence.

By dgreaser
Jul 25, 2005

South Platte Climber's Guide error - On page 190 of this guide, which shows an overview of the Jackson Creek area (North Rampart Range Road) Road 502 (Jackson Creek Road) is closed on the SOUTH side at the junction of Road 503. In other words, to get to climbs 10-19 (Jackson Creek Dome, etc) approach from the NORTH side, (possibly via Road 507) NOT THE SOUTH as suggested in the book. The gate on the north side is permanent, however it is a lot closer than hiking from the south. On the other hand, to get to Devil's Head, Taj Mahal, Flat Top Dome, etc. it is easiest to approach from the south. - Daryl

By Bob D
Feb 18, 2006

Seem strange that a area (11 Mile Canyon) that has the South Platte River running through it...is not in the South Platte area.

By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Feb 18, 2006

Elevenmile is now part of the South Platte region on this site.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 18, 2006

Maybe add Elevenmile Reservoir to the South Platte too?

By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
Feb 18, 2006

Elevenmile Res. is now also part of the South Platte region.

By JK1
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 25, 2008

I am looking for someone to climb with on July 29th and /or July 30th in the Elevenmile area. I am a safe climber that leads 5.9 bolted routes and dabbling in 5.7 trad. Will follow anything or at least try. I would love to do The Staircase as it has been a couple of years since I last did this route. I also am a knowledgable and safe belayer.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
May 22, 2012

The new comprehensive, color guidebook to the South Platte (including Devil's Head) is available in all the local shops and online at Fixed Pin's website (free shipping). Happy climbing!

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
May 22, 2012

The new guidebook is absolutely sick! Tons of inspiring photos and lots of new stuff I didn't know about; it's provided lots of great reading (even my wife, who never looks at guidebooks, has enjoyed leafing through it). An amazing effort by Jason & Co. It ships really fast too, I think I got mine the day after I ordered it. I'm sure if you order today you'll have yours in time for Memorial Day Weekend. With the recent lifting of much of the Cathedral Spires closure, the timing couldn't be better.

Can't wait for Volume 2!