Pygmy Alien
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.9 from 109 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Olevsky |
Page Views: | 38,543 total · 162/month |
Shared By: | Guy H. on Oct 19, 2004 · Updates |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Description
This route is very continuous at the grade. The first pitch is straight forward. If you continue past the first pitch expect an adventure.
P1: Follow a line of 12ish glue ins into a belay in a big hueco in the wall. The start climbs from a sandy fiction slab to steep edge climbing.
P2: Traverse left out of the hueco past 4 suspect pitons. Traverse left to the second crack (do not climb the first crack it seams up and leads nowhere). Follow this to a little alcove below a chimney. Gear belay.
P3: Follow the chimney up. Good protection and great climbing up to a short section of patina. Belay on party ledge. Sling tree for belay. Continue to the top of Island in the Sky via some 4th class scrambling.
Decent: From the top you should encounter the the up climb for the Island in the Sky Traverse. Just go North and you should run into it. Approach shoes are recommended.
14 Comments