Flagstone is a beautiful rock found just off a forest service backroad in the Oregon wilderness. Originally discovered in the mid 1980's, this crag remained a "locals only" crag for many years. In recent years sadly the rock has become littered with an ungodly amount of bolts. More than a few climbers are outraged, including many of the original pioneers of the crag. Still, the crag has several nice lines.
The rock has three aspects facing North, East, and West. A trail skirts the entire rock and can be used as a walk-off descent from the top. The rock is andesite and of high quality. The best climbs combine friction, edges, and balance together on dark grey rock. At times the place can be secluded and other times you'll feel cramped. Since it is a small place be courteous.
From I-5 and Eugene take highway 126 east for about 35-40 miles. Really watch the odometer and look for a sign on the right for Quartz Creek Road. Turn onto a narrow road and go over a narrow bridge. This road becomes a forest road #2618. Enjoy viewing clearcuts for the next 14.5 miles and taking a right fork at milepost 11, a left fork at milepost 13. At the junction of 2618 and 350 stay right for another 1/8th of a mile and park in a pullout on the right side of the road. The crag is up and to the left.
Although somewhat obscured from the road there is a climbers trail that leads past a message board and up to the crag (5min)
Hydrotube would be a classic climb anywhere and is one of the most unique climbs you'll find in Oregon. Pitch 1: (5.8+) Begin up the middle of the obvious tube on well placed bolts. The crux comes midway up this first pitch with a few friction moves and edges and quickly eases off as the angle decreases. Belay at ledge to the left of the tube on beefy anchors.Pitch 2: Step right from the anchors and climb up a few dicey moves until it eases off considerably. Continue straight up another ste...[more]Browse More Classics in OR
By Aaron Hobson Administrator From: Las Cruces, NM Mar 20, 2006
While I was working in the Willamette national forest (summer 2003 and 2004), I climbed here a number of times, but I never learned much about the routes. I taught several friends of mine the joys of multi-pitch climbing on one of the "easy" and exhaustively bolted climbs on the northern slabs. Despite the small size of the crag, it has a great selection climbs.
Flagstone is a very nice crag in a beautiful, secluded setting. The season there is fairly short, as the crag gets significant snowfall in the colder months. It is usually late Spring or Summer by the time the road melts out. For route beta, check out Rock Climbing Western Oregon: Willamette Valley.
I went to college in Eugene and climbed several times at Flagstone. The climbing is not world class, but the setting is. I have fond memories of topping out a route as the sun was setting behind the forested hills. I've travelled all over the world and nowhere is as beautiful as Oregon in the summer. If you are travelling through the area, give this place a chance. It's also...ahem..."well-bolted."