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8000 Foot Crag Blackhawk Pinnacle Castle Rock Coven, The Fisherman's Buttress Area Frustration Creek Hanna Rocks Holcomb Valley Pinnacles Keller Peak Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles Legoland Luna Boulders Mill Creek (Mentone Boulders) Mormon Rocks Onyx Summit Crag Scot Rock Sphinx Rock (aka The Cliff Hanger) |
DescriptionRising east of Los Angeles and the San Gabriel Mountains, the San Bernardino Mountains are home to the tallest peak in Southern California, Mt. San Gorgonio (11,502'/3506m), as well as numerous hiking trails, campgrounds, off-road trails and thousands, yes thousands, of rock climbs. Getting ThereFour main routes exist for getting into the San Bernardino Mountains:
WeatherCampingFree camping is available almost anywhere in the forest, often with established campsites near the climbing area. Fire restrictions are commonly in effect during the summer months, meaning no open fires, but stoves are usually allowed. Climbing GearIf sport climbing nothing more than a dozen draws are needed, and if climbing some of the traditional routes a standard rack to 3" should suffice for the majority of the routes. Check the individual area descriptions for more details. GuidebooksHidden Treasures, the only comprehensive guidebook for this area, is currently out of print. Overall a good book if you can find one but be aware that being older many new routes are not included in it and a number of the ratings are suspect. A newer book covering Big Bear East is now available which covers climbs in that area. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for San Bernardino Mountains:
Gold Standard 5.6 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Central Pinnacles : Gold Wall
Bye Crackie 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Central Pinnacles : Coyote Crag
Medicine Man 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Central Pinnacles : Thunderbird Wall
Shoot at Will 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Central Pinnacles : Tombstone Pit
Coyotes at Sunset 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Central Pinnacles : Coyote Crag
Whiptail 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Black Magic Poodle 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Central Pinnacles : Coyote Crag
Golden Poodle 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Central Pinnacles : Coyote Crag
Powder Keg 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Golden Nugget 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - East Face
Ricochet 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Central Pinnacles : Pistol Whipped Wall
Claim Jumper 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Central Pinnacles : Claim Jumper Wall
Vertical Epic 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Pinnacles North : Stone Wall
Pistol Pete 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Central Pinnacles : Doc Holiday Wall
One Armed Bandit 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Central Pinnacles : Claim Jumper Wall
Tombstone Shadow 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Central Pinnacles : Tombstone Pit
Lost Orbit 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Lost Orbit Rock : Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
Coyotes in the Henhouse 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Central Pinnacles : Claim Jumper Wall
Doc's Holiday 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Central Pinnacles : Doc Holiday Wall
Lunar Eclipse 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Lost Orbit Rock : Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
Featured Route For San Bernardino Mountains
Lunar Eclipse 5.11a CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
Right of Lost Orbit (5.10b/c) is this great route which was one of the first on the wall.Stem up and left off a ramp (5.10a) and onto a vertical face with patina plates which is climbed for several bolts to a small roof/overlap at the 4th bolt. Pull over the bulge, clip the next bolt and make some balancy moves (5.10) getting stood up to clip the sixth bolt. The moves past the last bolt require a high step/reach combo on less than ideal holds ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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