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Routes in Bucksnort Slab
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Bouxsnort S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Buck Fever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Bucksnort Boulder Crack T V0-1 4+ |
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Bushes of Beelzebub T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Classic Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Core Dump S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Crazy Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Easy Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Good Vibrations T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Good, Bad, & The Ugly T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Gumby Groove S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hurricane Gloria T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Left Out T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Motor Mouth T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Nuclear Burn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Overlooked T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pokey Minds the Baby S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prickle's Problem S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Saque Los Panta Lones T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shake 'n' Bake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Slippery When Dry T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Slippery When Wet T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Peter Hubbel, Brett Bristol, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 3,168 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Jay V on Nov 14, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
I've climbed this route a dozen times or so since '95. Its easy access and has a cool variety of crack sizes and friction face all make it a must do and do again route. Buck Fever lies 100 feet left of the "Classic Dihedral" and around the giant boulder sitting up against the slab. It climbs an inviting crack up to a small, crescent-shaped roof (belay), then 3 bolts to the second roof (belay 2).
P1. The first pitch begins with cool hands and a smooth face (climb the crack as much as possible) for 25 feet to a good stance where you can sink a bomber #4 Camalot with a runner. Then head left for the 5.9 or right for a cool 5.10 variation, they rejoin up another 20 or so feet. The left is a finger dihedral that leans until you pull over a wide hands or layback bulge (note: ropes often get stuck here pulling them on the descent). This is pretty secure climbing so far, but it takes a little creativity. Next squirm and grunt through some rough wide stuff that fits med size gear in the back. Climb to the crescent roof and place a small cam then go out the right side and onto the face (always a thrill going from crack onto a face!) then back left to the obvious anchors.
Pitch 2 is all friction face baby! Take only 3 draws cuz that's all there is...3 bolts. The first bolt is a little left and about 15-20ft out from the belay. Don't blow the clip or you'll slide right past your belayer, who will have enough time to cut the rope if you're a whiner. Clip the next 2 bolts then run for the anchors on easier climbing.
Rap the route.
There is also an cool bolted alternative start to pitch 1. It's rated a solid 5.10 and starts on top of the giant boulder left of the origional start (you can see the line of 5 or 6 bolts when looking down from the belay stance atop pitch 1). The friction is excellent to make believe! The crux is between the 1st to 3rd bolts. It ends at the same bolt anchors atop pitch 1.
P1. The first pitch begins with cool hands and a smooth face (climb the crack as much as possible) for 25 feet to a good stance where you can sink a bomber #4 Camalot with a runner. Then head left for the 5.9 or right for a cool 5.10 variation, they rejoin up another 20 or so feet. The left is a finger dihedral that leans until you pull over a wide hands or layback bulge (note: ropes often get stuck here pulling them on the descent). This is pretty secure climbing so far, but it takes a little creativity. Next squirm and grunt through some rough wide stuff that fits med size gear in the back. Climb to the crescent roof and place a small cam then go out the right side and onto the face (always a thrill going from crack onto a face!) then back left to the obvious anchors.
Pitch 2 is all friction face baby! Take only 3 draws cuz that's all there is...3 bolts. The first bolt is a little left and about 15-20ft out from the belay. Don't blow the clip or you'll slide right past your belayer, who will have enough time to cut the rope if you're a whiner. Clip the next 2 bolts then run for the anchors on easier climbing.
Rap the route.
There is also an cool bolted alternative start to pitch 1. It's rated a solid 5.10 and starts on top of the giant boulder left of the origional start (you can see the line of 5 or 6 bolts when looking down from the belay stance atop pitch 1). The friction is excellent to make believe! The crux is between the 1st to 3rd bolts. It ends at the same bolt anchors atop pitch 1.
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