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South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

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South Fork Shoshone (Ice)


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Submitted By: Alan Searcy on Jan 25, 2006
Elevation: 7,000 feet
Latitude: 44.5024  Longitude: -109.1270 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
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Beautiful alpine setting and sharp toys, it doesn'...


Description 

Secluded valley southwest of Cody with the Shoshone River running through it. No phones, no lights, occasionally motorcars. A definite alpine feel with a variety of grades to climb. Many times the approach is the crux of the route. Bands of harder horizontal stone provide benches for ice to form on. Much of the rock is crap, referred to by locals as "kitty litter". Rock gear is a waste to carry in most cases, although bugs and angles can be helpful if you're putting up something mixed and you need a mental piece or something that may hold bodyweight. As a rule "V" threads are the preferred method for descent, occasionally bolts or a slung tree. Typical ice climbs may be 100m to 300m (or longer) in length interrupted by steps of creek walking between pitches.


Getting There 

From Cody take Hwy 291 (South Fork Road) to the South Fork, about 45 minutes. Bison Willy's at the mouth of the Canyon is no longer an option for sleeping closer to the ice. Hotel it in town or sleep in the dirt at the Deer Creek Campground a couple of miles into the canyon.

Check out Cold Fear for details on current conditions and lodging. For route info, get your hands on the old Cozzens guide or the new Winter Dance book (Joe Josephson) with all the details.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Fork Shoshone (Ice):
High on Boulder   WI4     Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II   
The Moratorium   WI4+     Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   
Broken Hearts   WI5-6     Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet   
Mean Green   WI5     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in South Fork Shoshone (Ice)

Featured Route For South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
1st pitch of Cabin Creek

Cabin Fever WI4  WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
Yet another lil South Fork Gem. Walk up Cabin Creek, till you come to I think it's the second drainage on your right coming all the way down to the river and start up......[more]   Browse More Classics in WY


Photos of South Fork Shoshone (Ice) Slideshow Add Photo
1st rope-stretching pitch of Mean Green WI4, only 6 more to go.

1st rope-stretching pitch of Mean Green WI4, only ...

Hey Baby, let me show you my "O" face!  Crossing the Shoshone River cause she ain't frozen yet.  Hypothermically invigorating.

Hey Baby, let me show you my "O" face! Crossing t...

Trying to finagle a mixed start to get on Joy After Pain.  Normally your friends encourage you by saying,"You got it!" or "You can do it!" After this picture was taken, I pulled off about 100 lbs of Kitty litter on my head.  Then everyone yelled something to the effect of, "Get your ass down here".  It was worth a shot.

Trying to finagle a mixed start to get on Joy Afte...

start of the approach..

start of the approach..

wildlife on the approach...

wildlife on the approach...

from right to left: One Hitter, Mean Streak, and Moratorium

from right to left: One Hitter, Mean Streak, and M...

Bozo's Revenge... Cody WI3... A great warm up for Cody, WY.

BETA PHOTO: Bozo's Revenge... Cody WI3... A great warm up for ...

Simon Ahlgren moves out on the fatter than I've ever seen it Bozo's Revenge, Cody, WY.

Simon Ahlgren moves out on the fatter than I've ev...

Thin first pitch Main Vein

Thin first pitch Main Vein

Main Vein

Main Vein

Last pitch Main Vein

Last pitch Main Vein

The crux of most of the climbs....not drowning on the approach!

The crux of most of the climbs....not drowning on ...

Racing the setting sun after a long day in the South Fork, Ted sets another V-thread high on the School House route.

Racing the setting sun after a long day in the Sou...

Cody sunrise.

Cody sunrise.


Comments on South Fork Shoshone (Ice) Add Comment
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By kirra
Dec 23, 2006

Bison Willy's (at mouth of canyon) currently not available. Same name lodging in Cody town is open and a nice place to hang your helmet. Several climbs in and lots to choose. Check out 'Core Mountain Sports' -Aaron Mulkey for the latest beta in case he's been too busy climbing to update ColdFear.com...(:

FREE camping is available at Deek Creek Campgrnd in the valley about 5mi in. Saw several people tenting in the snow. But I don't think there is any Pizza delivery out there

By Alec
Jan 30, 2009

There was a fatality on the Main Vein in early January 2009 due to a massive avalanche: blog post

The South Fork isn't known for avalanches, but don't forget to check out conditions before getting out there.

By Bill Rusk
From: Denali National Park, AK
Aug 30, 2009

Hello,
I'm planning a trip here this winter. I was wondering when the climbs start forming up? Is late Dec. too early?
Thanks,
BR

By J. Albers
From: California
1 day ago

Hi Bill,
I am sure that this is too late to be helpful, but no, Dec. is not too early.
Best.