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Enchanted Tower


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Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 24, 2006
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Latitude: 34.2304  Longitude: -107.9170 
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Photo of the Tower itself.


Description 

Beautiful sport climbing on amazing clastic flow (or welded tuff, I am not sure, see the below comment!). In my opinion, this is the best sport climbing in New Mexico. Note that the guidebook that exists for this area is certainly worth the purchase, it has great topos and directions to the climbs and areas.


Getting There 

NOTE: Access to Enchanted Tower via the dirt road off HW 60 is granted by the ranch manager and can be revoked! Please be courteous: travel no more than 15 mph on the dirt road into Enchanted Tower and do not go in and out after dark. Thanks!!

If going from Albuquerque, head South on I-25 to Socorro, NM. From there go west on Highway 60 for about about 1 hour. Pass through the town of Datil, continue 5.3 miles (and 0.9 miles past mile marker 73), and turn right past the guardrail.

Go on a dirt road, through the gate, and head past a field to your right and the slope of a mountain on your left.

Continue down the dirt road towards the ranch house, and turn left at the metal gate just before the ranch house. Sign in there. In the past there has been a lock on the gate, however, it has been several years since I have seen it locked. In the doubtful event you find it locked, use the riddle below to get you into the gate.

After entering the gate, drive on the dirt road for about ten minutes. The tower will be obvious. There is camping on the left and a day lot to your right, in front of the tower. Out of courtesy to those who are camping, please park in the day lot if you are day tripping.

In the event the gate is locked:

The first number is the same as the first number of US climbing ratings. Add 1 to the first number and you have the second number. Multiply the first number by two and that double figure gives you the 3rd and 4th numbers.

or

This company makes C4 Rubber? You now have the first third and fourth numbers. To get the second number add 1 to the first number.


Keeping Enchanted Tower Clean: PACK OUT YOUR POO! 

This is an important topic that is worthy of discussion with more climbers visiting enchanted tower. The area surrounding enchanted tower is a beautiful one and I'm sure everyone agrees, we would like to keep it that way.

An ever increaing amount of human waste is being found surrounding the camping area and even at the base of the crags (disgusting!). The idea of a pit toilet has been discussed. However, for various reasons, it sounds as if this is currently not an option.

The use of Wag Bags or RestStop2 bags are an ideal solution! Or, and alternative might be a bucket with a lid and plastic kitchen garbage bags. Put the bags in the bucket like you would a regular garbage bin, do your business in the bag, tie it up and put the lid on. You can even add litter or some other liquid absorbing media.

Used Wag Bags or RestStop2 bags can be disposed of with regular trash, such as a dumpster as you pass through Datil on your way back to Albuquerque.

For more on this, please see the discussion below or here:
Enchanted Tower: Are we our own worst enemy?


Crags 

East to West, or right to left as you see them from the road.

- The Giants Molars

- Frog Prince: Many good routes from 5.10b to 5.HARD

- Rapunzel Wall: Nice beginners wall. This and Mother Goose wall are great for beginning leaders. Bolts can be a bit high and the cruxes are at the start.

- The Enchanted Tower: The namesake of the place; beautiful. Routes from 5.11b to 5.13a.

- Humpty Dumpty Wall

- Sleeping Beauty Wall: Nice selection of 10s and 11s.

- Captain Hook's Grotto

- Midnight Pumpkin Wall

- Ugly Duckling Boulder

- Pogue's Cave Area: A number of great 10s and 11s.

- Mother Goose Wall: Largest selection of beginner routes at the tower. Again, a good wall for the aspiring leader.

- Renaissance Wall: Only three routes on this wall, one being the hardest at Datil at 5.13+.

- The Land Beyond: Continue driving down the road to this one. About 1.5 miles west, past the main tower area. A few 10s but a great selection of .11 and .12 routes.


Resources 

- The Enchanted Tower-Pockets Full O' Fun by Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Guy Agee (2003, E Squared Enterprises)
- Online Guide:
http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Trails/9507/tower.htm
- Dr. Topo also has an online PDF guidebook. Go into the website (http://www.drtopo.com/) and go into the miniguides section, and click on New Mexico.
http://www.drtopo.com/newmexico/enchantedtower.pdf
- Rock Climbing: New Mexico by Dennis Jackson


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Enchanted Tower:
(01) Cheshire Cat   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Sleeping Beauty Wall
(04) Prima Donna   5.10b     Sport, 40 feet   Pogue's Cave Area
(02) Tarred and Feathered   5.10c     Sport, 50 feet   Sleeping Beauty Wall
(07) Jeremy Fisher   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Pogue's Cave Area
(03) Ooey Gooey   5.11a     Sport   Pogue's Cave Area
(08) The Tale of Jemima Puddleduck   5.11a     Sport   Pogue's Cave Area
(06) Pogue's Arete   5.11-     Sport   Pogue's Cave Area
(15) Grendel   5.11b     Sport, 80 feet   The Enchanted Tower : (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(04) Glass Coffin   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Sleeping Beauty Wall
(03) Sleeping Beauty   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Sleeping Beauty Wall
(14) Once Upon a Time   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   The Enchanted Tower : (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(04) Golden Stairs   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   The Enchanted Tower : (01) South and Southwest (R...
(18) Technowitch   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Enchanted Tower : (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(13) Rumplestiltskin   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   The Enchanted Tower : (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(02) Flotsam & Jetsam   5.12a     Sport, 70 feet   The Enchanted Tower : (01) South and Southwest (R...
(11) Jabberwocky   5.12b     Sport, 95 feet   The Enchanted Tower : (03) North (L) Side of the ...
(08) Through the Looking Glass   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Frog Prince
(03) Shipwrecked   5.12c     Sport, 80 feet   The Enchanted Tower : (01) South and Southwest (R...
(07) Ripped Van Winkle   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   The Enchanted Tower : (02) West (Center) Face
(06) Goliath   5.13a     Sport, 110 feet   The Enchanted Tower : (01) South and Southwest (R...
Browse More Classics in Enchanted Tower

Featured Route For Enchanted Tower
DTP sending his last remaining route on the Tower: <a href='/v/new_mexico/enchanted_tower/the_enchanted_tower/105895544'>(07) Ripped Van Winkle</a> Sept. 20, 2008.

(07) Ripped Van Winkle 5.12d  NM : Enchanted Tower : ... : (02) West (Center) Face
This fine line spawned the now classic, and much more popular Goliath. This was the original line up the Towers prominent prow, turning left around the arete at the midway anchors, and continuing to the top along the golden NW face just left of the hanging arete (the upper half of ZWW).Now largely ignored, this route makes a great victory lap for those who have sent Goliath, but its also a great route in its own right, and would make an excellen...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of Enchanted Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Tony on the Tower.

Tony on the Tower.

A view of the Tower from the road

A view of the Tower from the road

The creatively-named "Very Large Array" near Datil, NM

The creatively-named "Very Large Array" near Datil...

Double rainbow over the Tower - Aug. 31, 2008.

Double rainbow over the Tower - Aug. 31, 2008.

As you pass through Magdalena, you may want to consider stopping by here for a cup of coffee. The coffee and food were great, and the owners were wonderful.

As you pass through Magdalena, you may want to con...

The Tower

The Tower


Comments on Enchanted Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 16, 2009
By WSnyder
Mar 10, 2006

In a conversation with Adam Read (Tower first acensionist and geologist at NM Tech) Adam stated that The Tower is actually a clastic flow and not welded tuff. I write this just for info and not to argue anything. Maybe if Adam ever reads this he can comment further.

By Eric Rhicard
Mar 24, 2006

Here are a few questions and directions that will give you the combination to the sometimes locked gate. 1] The first number is the same as the first number of US climbing ratings. 2)Add 1 to the first number and you have the second number. 3)Multiply the first number by two and that double figure gives you the 3rd and 4th numbers.

Okay, here is another puzzle that will unlock the gate. This company makes C4 Rubber? You now have the first third and fourth numbers. To get the second number add 1 to the first number.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jan 30, 2007

Anyone been out to the tower recently? I'm curious about the road conditions with respect to all of the snow we've gotten.

Thanks

By Steven Crisp
Dec 11, 2008

My buddy and I took a spring break tour down south with the intentions of going to Mexico. We took a wrong turn at Albuquerque, and ended up in enchanted tower. Some of the coolest pockets, crappy road entry, and a New Mexico sunset kept us there for another week...Worth every second of it. The caves are rifle like but not rifle grade. Very few people and a lot more routes to be discovered but not bolted. Amazing!

By Devin C.
Dec 17, 2008

I was wondering if anyone climbs here during the winter months. I saw that is at 8000 ft I'm looking at hitting this place up in mid january but with all the snow lately Im kinda worried if its worth it?

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 18, 2008

Hey Devin, I've not heard of anyone climbing here in winter. In a typical winter you'd probably need to snowshoe or ski on the road beyond the ranch house. I'm not sure about this but it certainly wouldn't surprise me. Then, of course, that would lead to parking near the ranch house which wouldn't be cool with the owners.
Also, the routes generally face west which would mean some very chilly climbing for much of the day until the sun came around.
If you're in the area in January, the climbing closer to Socorro would be a much better bet.
That said, I live quite far north from the Tower so I'm by no means an expert.

By Devin C.
Dec 18, 2008

Thanks for the info Jason. I'm also from Los, but go to school in las Cruces so I was hoping to hit up the tower on my way down in jan. but Soccoro probably would be a safer bet. Hopefully the snow will clear enough that i can climb a bit while I'm up here.

By blake622000
Jul 9, 2009

I called the number listed above(520-326-1449) to see about the gate code,this isn't the number to stoneage gym, its to the lady who publishes the datil guide. She said there isn't a lock onthe gate anymore.

By augie
From: ABQ
Aug 17, 2009

If you are going to the Enchanted Tower bring a shovel. We have a serious issue going on at the Enchanted Tower. Four Years ago it was a very pristine place. No mice, no trash, hardly anyone there during the week and only a handfull of people there on the weekends. Now there are so many mice they penetrate your vehicle through the cracks and nothing is safe. I have see someone camping at the main camp sights every day that I have visited in the last two years. There is trash (mostly toilet paper) under every rock and crevice. Last week I found that someone had excreted themselves (number two) right at the base of the babies/frog prince wall. I saw at least three people going on suspicious walks with toilet paper and no shovel. Simply put, if people do like and appreciate this crag, this type of behavior needs to stop. Dump runs need to take a half hour, not five minutes, they should be performed out of the valley (on the rim or up the canyon past the child of light area) and should always include a shovel. If you like toilet paper take it with you when you leave or burn it. I know this is not a permanent solution but it will help. In many ways this area is losing its enchantment. If we don't begin policing ourselves the forest service will do it for us.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 17, 2009

augie: Could not agree with you more. TP is all over the place. At a very minimum, dig deep and burn the TP (make sure the fire's OUT!) or, an even better solution is to bring Wag Bags and take it out with you - there are tons of nice, convenient trash bins on the highway back to Magdalena to drop it off in. See this discussion for more: Enchanted Tower: Are we our own worst enemy?

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 19, 2009

This is a good and necessary discussion.

The idea of wag bags = a good one in my opinion. When I get around to it, I will include a link to this discussion and add some comments to the area description.

By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 19, 2009

Great idea about adding some info to the main page about Wag Bags and/or Restop 2 bags, Anthony. I never go to the Tower without them and bring enough for my friends. Super convenient to use (easier than any other option, really) and there is a public dumpsters area right in Datil so there's really no reason to not use these there. Let's spread the word and encourage the use of these bags at ET.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 20, 2009

I would like to think that most (some?) people that climb at the Tower are interested in keeping it clean. WagBags/RestStop2 bags are an ideal solution - aside from the expense and having to go purchase them, which may deter some. For those not up to such a monumental challenge, an alternative is to use a bucket (2-gallon?) with a lid and plastic kitchen garbage bags. Put the bags in the bucket like you would a regular garbage bin, do your bizness in the bag, tie it up and put the lid on. You can even add litter or some other liquid absorbing media to the bag if you're wanting to get fancy, or just do that half outside the bucket. Works like a charm and sitting on the bucket can be pretty comfy for the more enduring (pumpy, in climber terms) efforts...

By augie
From: ABQ
Sep 2, 2009

Thanks Jason, perhaps that information on the introduction page will help. I think donated wag bags would help too. ON another note, perhaps we could encourage people to camp at the datil well campgound as well? I know this has become the preferable alternative to some ABQ climbers and it makes some sense. The toilets are already there and they are only 15 minutes away. Maybe a mention of this in the intro as well. I am sure that some people would rather do this than pack out their poo. Or at least I hope so.

By Tom R
From: Denver, CO
Sep 4, 2009

Just went and bought one of these ( http://www.cabelas.com/p-0009518.shtml ) for my trip to ET. Cheap and simple.

By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Sep 4, 2009

Augie - Probably not. I would much rather camp at the tower campground than at Datil well, as I am sure the majority of climbers would as well. Nothing like being right at the crag when you wake up in the morning. There are few places that is an option.

If you have never used one of those wag bags it's really not all that bad. Seriously. Everything is quite contained. I recommend giving it a whorl.

Tom brought up another good option, the luggable loo. It's a 5 gallon bucket with a lid on it. I also found that you can pick up bags for it at Wall-Mart. They can go into the trash can on your way home. The nice thing is it's all contained into a bucket and you just dump the bucket out.

By Tom R
From: Denver, CO
Sep 7, 2009

Just gave the Luggable Loo it's maiden voyage to the Tower. I wish I had bought one of these years ago. It's more comfortable than squatting and more convenient than digging a hole. The lid snaps down to hold a wag bag firmly in place and the bag is easy to change. I paid $16 for the bucket and lid. Bags are a bit expensive ($2.95), but they are biodegradable. I plan on putting a sicker on "Lou" (I've named him) from everywhere he goes, but I could not find any stickers in Datil or Magdalena. If anyone knows of a sticker representing the area, I would love to get a hold of one.

By Mike Bond
Sep 18, 2009

What is the "Season" a the tower? It is not noted above.

By Dave Wachter
Sep 19, 2009

Season is all through the fall and spring. Particularly good in the fall, when temps are perfect, winds low, and leaves turning.Fall's particulaly good for sending.

By Timothy Gibson
Nov 15, 2009

Anyone have info on the weather at Enchanted Tower for this time of year? (mid November?)
Is it worth trying to climb?

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 16, 2009

Depending on the weather Datil could be good, though you will want to climb in the sun for sure. Remember that Datil is somewhere around 8,000 feet, but if the sun is out and the wind is calm.

I know people who have climbed at the tower in December but it is more of a local thing since you can just go when the weather allows. You would definitely be taking a chance with a road trip in November. Also most routes only receive afternoon sun, so unless you are wanting to get on the two routes on the Renissance wall your days will be short.

If you do go I would recommend being willing to move to Socorro, Alamogordo (Tunnel) or Last Chance where it is easier to climb in the sun.