Mountain Project: Climbing Broughton Bluff

Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on Broughton�s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but is difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There

Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broughton Bluff:

Edges and Ledges 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet

The Sickle 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Gandalf's Grip 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II

Classic Crack 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet

Loose Block Overhang 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 60 feet

Sheer Energy 5.10a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet

Sheer Stress 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet

Tips City 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Red Eye 5.10b/c Sport, 60 feet

Thai Stick 5.10d Sport, 30 feet

Lost Boys 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Critical Mass 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Pinhead 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Dracula 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet

Bloodline 5.12a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Bad Omen 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet

Featured Route For Broughton Bluff

Gandalf's Grip 5.9 OR : Broughton Bluff

This stunning line is one of the longest and best climbs at Broughton. The climb is on the north face, facing the Columbia river and can be seen from highway 84. It is usually done in 3 pitches but can be done as one pitch with a 60m rope if long runners are used.Pitch 1: 5.9 The climb starts up a steep crack and then angles left onto the face through a few bolts. Continue up through a small roof (crux) and onto an angled ledge and a 3 bolt be...[more] Browse More Classics in OR

Comments on Broughton Bluff

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By Dannyr
Feb 14, 2006

Many areas in Oregon have poison oak, but Broughton is thick with the stuff. Watch out for it!

By Karsten
From: Reno, NV
Apr 14, 2006

Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight.

By Bryson Slothower
Aug 19, 2007

any info on the newer bolted line left of Traffic Court? 1st pitch felt 5.9 but the upper pitch looks hard...??

By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Aug 13, 2008

It is called Dark Tower.

By doggy
Sep 9, 2008

WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger.

By peachy spohn
From: OR
Jan 28, 2009

Okay, so here it goes. Information has leaked about a BOLT LADDER that was put up on the Bat Wall mere feet to the left of Dracula and intersecting Back to the Gym, a bold aid line. For extensive information check out the discussion on

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/86353>>>>>

This is pretty serious stuff. It isn't simply the fact of squeeze jobs, but also degrading the rock and environment as well as being completely oblivious to climbing ethics and the local climbing community. I would call myself one of Broughtons biggest fans and this blew my mind when I heard about it. I have had heated debates about bolting in the past and I am all for route safety etc. but when it comes to putting up a nonsensical BOLT LADDER which scars the rock and eliminates any sense of adventure we should be outraged. Those who did it should be informed of the situation. If it hasn't already happened, I will be out soon to take the bolts out.

It's offensive to me that climbers of any style would do something so useless and stupid. I have heard arguments about 'Practicing Aid Climbing," but tell me, what is there exactly to practice on a bolt ladder?

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Jan 29, 2009

I am in full agreement Matt. I think there's going to be great support in the community for the removal of the new bolts.

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Broughton Bluff

Description

Getting There

The Classics