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Below The Old New Place Big Enchilada, The Coffee Shop (aka Quickstop) Crack House (aka Estante Edge), The Doughnut Shop, The Gallows Edge Lounge, The New New Place Old New Place Overlook, The Pajarito Gorge Playground, The Potrillo Cliffs River Crag, The Sewer Crag, The Sununu Place Tortilla Flats |
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DescriptionFrom cracks to difficult sport, there is a wide variety of basalt climbing in and around the sleepy town of White Rock.
Different ethics apply regarding bolts and bolted anchors at the different crags; some are traditional only, while others have bolts and anchors. The local climbing community has had a number of open meetings and established this White Rock bolting agreement as a compromise for differing viewpoints and to allow for climbing of all styles at White Rock. Season: year-round, except during occasional winter storms. The cliffs face enough different directions that it is always possible to seek out sun or shade as desired. Like everywhere in the SW, monsoon-style rainstorms are common in late afternoons in July and August. Getting ThereFrom I-25, head either north or south toward Santa Fe (depending on where you are coming from), and get onto highway 285/84 toward Pojoaque. From Pojoaque head west on highway 502. Highway 502 will take you directly into the town of White Rock, follow the directions to each crag from there. Other Resources:Several Webguides to this area can be found at: http://lamountaineers.org/zLOCATE.html The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Rock:
(11) Ralph's Revenge 5.9 Trad, 60 feet Below The Old New Place
(13) Upper Kor's Crack 5.9 Trad, TR, 45 feet Potrillo Cliffs
(30) Beginner's Hand Jam 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Playground
(09) Ralph's Dilemma 5.10a Trad, 60 feet Below The Old New Place
(12) Holy Wall 5.10a Sport, TR, 55 feet The Overlook : South/East side
(10) Cholla Wall 5.10a/b PG13 Trad, TR, 55 feet The Overlook : South/East side
(14) Dave's Face 5.10c Sport, TR, 60 feet The Overlook : South/East side
(06) Huecos Rancheros 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet The Overlook : North/West side
(38) Blow Hole 5.10d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Playground
(14) Flying A 5.11- Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Playground
(10) Flesh-Eating Gnats 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Below The Old New Place
(15) Way Beyond Zebra 5.11b Sport, TR, 65 feet The Overlook : South/East side
(14) Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) 5.11 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Old New Place
(14) Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Below The Old New Place
(13) Wailing Banshees 5.11b/c Sport, 62 feet Below The Old New Place
(05) Unrelenting Nines 5.11c/d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Playground
(29) Thorazine Dream 5.11d Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet The Overlook : South/East side
(12) Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Below The Old New Place
(20) Face Off 5.12a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Overlook : South/East side
(05) Monsterpiece Theatre 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Below The Old New Place
Featured Route For White Rock
 Step up to the small roof and clip the first bolt. Pull the roof with a tenuous mantle-type move to really get going. Climb the thin, slabby face past a couple more bolts to a nice no-hands rest ledge. Then gun it through the steep, technical face climbing, using a nice mono pocket along the way through the short, pronounced crux past three more bolts to the anchors. Definitely a sequence to it. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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