Because of the approaches to the climbing areas here, you will typically find solitude while climbing in the Sandias. Due to high elevation and nature of these mountains, conditions can vary. While one can climb at any time of the year, the best time seems to be between May through October. West and Southwest facing walls, such as Muralla Grande, can be warm and dry even on winter days. Watch for thunderstorms during the summer months.
Getting There
The majority of the climbs are accessed from the Sandia Crest, though some are approached from the foothills of Albuquerque (these directions will be give in the appropriate sections):
- Starting from Albuquerque, take I-40 east through Tijeras Canyon, exiting on the Tijeras exit (exit 175). - North on highway 14 for 6.8 miles - Turn left on NM 536 (follow signs to Sandia Mountain Ski area), and follow this road for about 14 miles, past the ski area, and finally to the Sandia Crest.
Getting to the different climbing areas:
Approach times and difficulties vary depending on where you are going. Directions will be given in the appropriate sections.
WARNING: Approaches can be DIFFICULT, as in both strenuous and difficult to find. It's not difficult to get lost in this area. Should anyone following directions posted on Mountain Project end up lost, feedback on the directions in order to make them more accurate is appreciated.
Resources:
- Sandia Rock by Mick Schein (2003, Sharp end Publishing) - Rock Climbing New Mexico by Dennis R. Jackson (2006, Falcon Press) - Hikers and Climbers Guide to the Sandias by Mike Hill (1993, Coyote Books)
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Sandia Mountains:
Mexican Breakfast Crack is a high quality and clean crack with a wild crux traverse under a big roof, although much of the climb is somewhat widish, as with parts of English Breakfast Crack in Yosemite. Certainly, trad climbers in both NM and California eat cracks like this for breakfast!Pitch 1: Follow the clean left-facing corner under the right side of the big roof as it widens from big-hands to fist to offwidth. Sustained 5.8 to this point, bu...[more]Browse More Classics in NM
I just recently got a copy of the Jackon Guide to New Mexico Climbing. I have climbed Tooth Or Consequences in the Organs (really enjoyed it!), but I am embarrassed to say I have never been to the Sandias...they look amazing. Long Adventure routes on quality rock and generally well protected with year round access and weather...or is that a neophyte's misconception? I'd love to go there, but first get the skinny from locals. It seems odd that NM doesn't seem to get the publicity that Utah or Colorado climbs do for "intermountain west", but, anyway.... are the bolts on the long routes being replaced by new and improved 21st century quality beef? Specifically, I am keen to do some of the long routes on the Shield. thanks....
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Jan 30, 2007
"quality rock and generally well protected "
That's hilarious! You made my day!
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Apr 19, 2007
I haven't been up there this spring. It sounds like you have. How were the snow conditions before last weeks' snow? From my house, it looks like there's still quite a bit of snow, even on some south facing slopes. Makes me think the gully would be pretty snowy, but I don't know.
Let us know what you find out!
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Apr 19, 2007
Anyone made the journey to the Windward Wall? looks sweet in the guidebook, but perhaps a bit difficult to find.
The approach for science friction/windward walls aren't too bad. Approach via the crest, from the La Luz junction (Echo canyon meets upper La Cueva canyon) hike/scramble west sticking to the ridge line. There is a rap station (somewhat hidden) facing SW. Thus these crags get pretty good sun-exposure. If you pass the rap station no worries you cant continue too much further the line ends. The first rap gets you to the base of the upper tier crag. A second station after a scramble north gets you to the base of the lower tier.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Oct 8, 2007
My standard rack for anything in the Sandia's typically consists of doubles (camalots) from 0.3 to #2 with one #3, a few smaller cams (C3s), a full set of nuts, and 10 slings. Slings are important because so many routes wander, though you could probably get away with less than ten on most routes with some quick draws (I don't have to extend all of them but I do end up slinging most of my pieces). If the route description ever recommends bringing any pieces larger, I typically do.
Does anyone know where to access the U-mound boulders?
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Oct 11, 2007
There's a parking lot at the Eastern terminus of Copper (road). To get to Copper, from I-40, exit at Tramway and go North. Copper is the 2nd light. Go right on Copper (East). Drive a few hundred yards and park. Enter the open space and follow an excellent trail ~200yds to the NE to the largest pile of rocks.
Bring lots of band-aids and neosporene.
By Anthony Stout Administrator From: Albuquerque, NM Oct 11, 2007
Does anyone have beta for a supposed tyrolean traverse. Between the cake and the candle?
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Dec 6, 2007
Thanks to those who've shared topos and route descriptions for the new routes established in the Sandias in the last 5 or 10 years not yet found in the guidebooks! This site is turning into a good resource. Keep 'em coming!! I've heard many great things about the newer climbs, and the ones I've done have been excellent.
It's great to have more projects to consider after climbing many of those in Schein's quite accurate 'Sandia Rock' guide; especially as some of the info in the other older once-comprehensive book is outdated (with respect to pro and it assumes 50m ropes), or generally a little unclear, but it does have cool artistic hand-drawn sketches.
Can anyone comment on a) current snow conditions and b) the temperatures to expect up on the rocks, if Albuquerque is forecast for low 60s and sunny (as later next week)? Specific routes I am considering are the Thumb and Needle ridge climbs, and Procrastination on the Shield. Thanks!
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Feb 22, 2008
I haven't been up there this season, but I can see a lot of snow up there from my house. In fact, we got another ~1/2 an inch Wednesday night (at my house). I would guess the approach to any of those 3 routes would be pretty heinous, but the rock would be relatively snow free.
The only thing I've been on in the Sandias that is close is P6 on Excitable Boys and it really isn't much at all. Long way to go for it. Granted, I haven't climbed much in the Sandias and generally avoid OW and chimneys. If you're looking for some serious grunting in Northern NM, Airbus would likely be right up your alley. :-) And I hear of some more chimney action to be had near Fenton Lake but I've been on neither of these.
Mike Roybal... what do you think the aid on the south face of the chimney goes at? I hiked up to the base and thought it looked really really thin. Any idea? Also does anyone know what the brand new bolt about a pitch up the west face of the chimney is for, tried to lead past it but it was caked in lichen.
In answer to Steve's inquiry about the new bolt on the west face of the Chimney; The route is called Smoke on the Horizon II 5.11b. I climbed the route for the first time in 02 or 03 without the bolt and didn't climb it clean then. I went back with Allen Aiken in the summer of 04 and put in the bolt and tried to clean the route up a little but it struck me as too scruffy to become something many people would want to do, but it has been freed cleanly. I never got around to telling many people about it or posting it. If some one put in some anchors at the summit and rapped in and cleaned the line it would turn out to be a decent 2-3 pitch route on the Chimney. I just haven't gotten back to it as yet.
Steve; As for the South face of the chimney the aid consisted of RURPS, tied off knife blades an very small wired chocks and the old copper mashies. above the overhang it goes all free (A3, A4)
As for chimney routes hoys Chimney on the west side of the needle is about the longest chimney route in the Sandias. It ends up on the Southwest ridge right before you get to the fifth avenue level. It's not very hard but pretty fun.
By Evan Belknap From: Albuquerque, NM or Prescott, A Apr 30, 2009
Hello, I don't know if this note belongs here, but that's okay. Coming back home to Placitas for the summer and I want to climb a bunch in the Sandias. I, unfortunately, have a limited number of climbing buddies. Anybody want to go climbing?? I can lead tens well and elevens with a bit of whining. I can follow whatever. Have a double rack. I would love to get dragged up hard stuff by burly climbers... I'll be back in two weeks. Talk to me. My email is arlo123@comcast.net
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