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DescriptionQueen Creek and its many volcanic towers is the home of central Arizona sport climbing and bouldering. The rock is volcanic tuff and the routes go from deep-pocket pulling down to tiny-edge crimping, depending on the area. Many of the routes here were established between the early '90s and present day. Getting ThereQueen Creek Canyon is found above the small town of Superior, AZ, about an hour's drive (depending where you start) east of the metro Phoenix area. Drive through Superior headed east, go up the hill and the various areas will be found after you get through the big tunnel. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Queen Creek Canyon:
Smokin' The Toad 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek
Three Amigos 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area
Follow Your Heart 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Pond
First Born 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Atlantis
Going Out Of Chicken Sale 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Coop
El Throatchoker Grande 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
Giggling Marlin 5.9 Sport Atlantis
Dacite Conspiracy 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek
Accelerated Climbology 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 165 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Climbology Area
Faith, Hope & Jeep 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area
Pocket Puzzle 5.10a Sport The Pond
The Shmotem Pole 5.10b Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole
Microskunks with Cholla Coats 5.10b Trad, 140 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area
Pocket Party 5.10 Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet The Pond
Centipede Corner 5.10b/c Trad, 110 feet Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox
Schizophrenic Boulevard 5.10c Sport, 80 feet Atlantis
The Totem Pole 5.10c/d Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area
Smokin Guns 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Atlantis
Featured Route For Queen Creek Canyon
Accelerated Climbology 5.9 AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : ... : Climbology Area
Great, fun climbing on a mixture of face and crack on the north side of the formation. Climb 30’ up a corner / crack system on the right side of the face. Traverse a few feet left to 5 bolts heading up the face 60’ to a second crack system. Follow the cracks system until it widens to a chimney. Place some gear and pull the harrowing exposed bulge on your right to the top.Descent: Two single line rappels. First rap - 60 feet to the chimney cli...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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