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DescriptionThe San Rafael Swell is a huge area in the center of Utah. There is everything from Indian creek style cragging to long sandy slabs to towers. The swell has seen a lot of new route activity lately, so keep checking for more updates. Getting ThereThis is a vast area in the center of Utah split by I-70. The most popular areas are accessed by the Buckhorn Wash Road. Most of the main roads in this area are good dirt roads, and you can usually at least get close in a 2WD. The road conditions can change quickly since they don't see much traffic, and the remote parts of the swell are not a good place to have car trouble. Visitors should always come to the swell with a full tank of gas, a spare tire in good condition, and extra food and water just in case. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for San Rafael Swell:
1000' of Fun 5.6 Trad, 5 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade II San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs
Knights-Errant 5.8 Trad, 5 pitches, 870 feet, Grade II San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs
Death by Chocolate 5.8+ R Trad, 9 pitches, 1700 feet, Grade III San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs
Unknown Handcrack?? 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet San Rafael Swell (north) : Private Pizza Wall
Private Pizza 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet San Rafael Swell (north) : Private Pizza Wall
Old Bushmills 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet San Rafael Swell (north) : Pine Canyon
James Tower 5.10 A1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200 feet San Rafael Swell (north) : Lower Buckhorn Wash
Anchors From Hell 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet San Rafael Swell (north) : Pine Canyon
Planet Waves 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet San Rafael Swell (north) : Dylan Wall
Featured Route For San Rafael Swell
Ozymandias 5.8 C2 UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : The Weasel Formation
Ozymandias takes a very direct line up the south face to one of the unclimbed summits of The Weasel. It is a demanding and committing route up an impressive face. After the overhanging crack on pitch 3 retreat would be difficult. It starts on the right(east) and behind an 80' detached pinnacle at the foot of a line of cracks and grooves in the centre of the face. P1) A perfect crack using small to medium cams leads past a roof and right into a...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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