Paradise Forks (AKA The Forks) is a beautiful columnar basalt climbing area located about a half-hour west of Flagstaff. The area is in Sycamore Canyon at a point where the canyon is actually a Y-shaped confluence of drainages. There are two seasonal waterfalls and pools at the ends of the Y, and the point where the Y merges is the popular "Prow" area. The Prow, The Gold Wall, and the Davidson Wall offer the longest routes which are up to about 90'.
One distinguishing characteristic of the area is that almost all routes are approached from above by fixing a line and rapping in. Also, there are exactly zero sport climbs at The Forks and just a handful of bolts (I can only think of 7: two sets of anchors in the choss at the White Wall, and the three on Australians At The Forks). The area really lends itself to trad climbing up beautiful, varied crack systems. Rock is bullet-hard, pro is typically bombproof, and friction varies from polished to grippy. Expect stout ratings.
Nestled in a pine forest, the area is quiet, peaceful, and fairly pristine; please try to keep it that way.
Many thanks to Larry Coats for providing first ascent information!
Getting There
Paradise Forks is just southeast of the town of Williams, AZ, just off Interstate 40.
From Flagstaff, with a low-clearance car (short stretch of good dirt roads), drive west on 40 for 27 miles to exit 167 for Garland Prairie Road. Follow this south over some railroad tracks for 8 miles. Turn right onto FS Road 109. Follow this for 3.3 miles to a left-hand turn into the parking lot.
From Flagstaff, with a Subaru or better (more direct but more dirt road), drive west on 40 for 17 miles to exit 168 for Parks road. Head south over some railroad tracks (road turns into Garland Prairie), and follow this as it makes several 90 degree turns to skirt around a huge parcel of private land. After 13.3 miles, turn left onto FS Road 109. Follow this for 3.3 miles to a left-hand turn into the parking lot.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Paradise Forks:
The climb starts with a some face climbing, finger and hand jams to a ledge(5.11-). Traverse right on the ledge to the obvious crack. Climb the crack(tips to hands) to the rim. ...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
Hi all. For those of you who don't know me my name is Will Cobb and I am the Access Fund Regional Coordinator for Northern Arizona. Chris Tatum from Vertical Relief Climbing Gym let me know about an active Turkey Vulture nest situated on the ledge at the top of T.L. Bush earlier this week. With help and feedback from the kind folks of the NACC we felt that a voluntary closure of the Gold Wall was in order. I have since learned that Turkey Vultures are protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act and that disturbing the nest is a lawful offense.
Local climbers will be checking on the nest frequently from the far side of the canyon in order to minimize disturbance. Once it has been determined that the nest is abandon for the season the closure will be discontinued.
I believe that this is a great opportunity for climbers to show the Forest Service that we are capable of self-policing and are dedicated to environmental friendly action. Please avoid the Gold Wall until it is determined that the birds are finished with the nest.
What will the weather be like at the end of October? Might be coming in from out of town to visit a friend who just moved to the area. Any other climbing suggestions for a 10-11 sport leader? 9ish trad leader?
The weather at that time of year will depend on the particular year. I've climbed there on Christmas Day (obviously in December) but at that time of year, there could also be a raging blizzard. Chances are that its going to be beautiful though.
For a 5.9 leader, probably the highest concentration is on the Pillow Wall (but the cracks tend to be wide hands) and short (in the 50-60ft range, the best at 5.9 are probably on the Prow(but there are only a couple of them though) and the most popular tend to be the Three Yogis (or Black Rose).
In Dec and Jan the sun angle is low. As a result the sun may not hit the bottom of many walls like gold wall, and especially the pillow wall(where many of the 5.8 and 5.9s are)and the cold air which drains local terrain may keep the bottom of the canyon below 40 deg. You may be hard pressed to find 5.8 or 5.9 in the sun. Be prepared for frigid belays!
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