Mountain Project: Climbing Granite Mountain

One of Arizona's premiere trad climbing areas, Granite Mountain features beautiful white fine-grained granite and many wonderful routes in a high desert wilderness area. You're not likely to see too many other climbers here either, but you will see plenty of awesome cracks and beautiful natural lines.

Getting There

Granite Mountain resides just northwest of the city of Prescott. Head out of town on Iron Springs Road to the Granite Basin Rec. Area turnoff (right turn), follow this approx. four miles to either the Playa or Metate Day Use Area parking lots. Take Trail 260 up to the big granite wall.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Granite Mountain:

Dislocation Buttress 5.4 Trad, 7 pitches, 300 feet Swamp Slabs

Dislocation Direct 5.6 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Swamp Slabs

The Classic 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches Middle Section

Green Savior 5.8 Trad, 4 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III Middle Section

Beaver Cleaver 5.8+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch Middle Section

Magnolia Thunderpussy 5.9- Trad Middle Section

Cheiu Hoi 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Right Section

Crack Lover's Variation 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II Middle Section

Reunion 5.10- Trad, 4 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II Middle Section

Falling Ross 5.10 Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet Right Section

Kingpin 5.10 PG13 Trad, 5 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III Middle Section

Candyland 5.10 Trad, 5 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III Middle Section

The Slammer Jam 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade III Middle Section

Thin Slice aka A Thin Slice of Plum Pie 5.10+ Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II Right Section

Coatimundi Whiteout 5.11a Trad, 5 pitches Middle Section

Featured Route For Granite Mountain

The beautiful 3rd pitch splitter crack of Reunion.

Reunion 5.10- AZ : Granite Mountain : Middle Section

Reunion is an excellent line found on the left side of the Flying Buttress. While the middle two pitches aren't the best in the world, the first is pretty okay, and the last one is maybe the best finger crack on the Mountain! As the story goes, when Baxter freed the last pitch, he went up with a few nuts, and ran out towards the end of the pitch. Facing retreat or pushing ahead, he cast out on the finish and pulled off a stylish ascent in bold st...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ

Comments on Granite Mountain

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By BWpete
Jan 2, 2007

if you climb 5.9 try a 5.7 at GM the lines are all well worth their grade

By Olaf Mitchell
From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
Jun 14, 2007

There isn't much in the way of feed back for such a great area.
Years ago while on a desert climbing tour, I visited this area and camped on what was known to us as the "front porch"a large ledge that overlooked miles of desert. At the base of an overhanging cliff there was an obvious fire pit that had to have been used for centries.My question is has anyone else built a fire in this pit and what did you see illuminated on the face of that overhang! The image we saw was ere enough that we moved our camp that night! This image has haunted me for over 25 years!
The climbing was great and I have always thought that I should make a return visit.

By Tom Hanson
From: Castle Rock, CO
Aug 20, 2007

Olaf - You have certainly made me very curious. What did you see illuminated in the overhang?

By C Miller
Administrator
Aug 22, 2007

Bill Cramer has an excellent topo guide to Granite Mountain and the surrounding area; perhaps contact him to pick up copy.

See the books section in the upper left corner of the Granite Mountain page (this page actually).

By dcohn
Nov 11, 2007

How is the camping? How is the weather in November and December?

By lenoir
From: republic of davis
Mar 15, 2008

just wondering if the above closure information is accurate? was thinking of swinging by to climb candyland when i'm in sedona later this spring...

By Brandon Eubanks
Oct 17, 2008

Has anyone climbed Magnolia Thunder Pussy lately looking for baita on the second roof were the pin soppiest to be?

By max gibbons
From: AZ y TO
Apr 20, 2009

If you climb 5.9 but can't climb 5.9 at GM then you probably don't climb 5.9.

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Granite Mountain

Description

Getting There

The Classics