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The Fornicator
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 24
votes
Routes in Ridge 1
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Adulterer, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Adultress, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Arrogant Bastard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bad Boy Boogie S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Casana Rojo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cyber Spraylord, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fist Full of Steel S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fornicator, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ganas S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden Shower S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Impersonator, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Imposter, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Inseminator (only P1's 1st 70 ft) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inseminator, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Outlaw S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oversprayed And Worthless (AKA: The Ejaculator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Raging Hormones T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Real Men of Genius S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shootin' Off At The Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shootin' Off At The Mouth S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Silver Saddle S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Straight A Student T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stranger (aka The Left Hand Route), The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wild Blue Yonder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Adams and T. Anderson |
| Page Views: | 3,336 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | richard magill on Feb 15, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
This is between "Real Men of Genius" and "The Adultress" is "The Fornicator".
It is an excellent route with some 10d/11a slabbing that leads to a crux around the 6th bolt. The crux involves some insecure sidepulling and footwork to work through an overhanging apex. This is difficult to onsight but not so bad if you know where you are going.
After the crux, there is a no hands rest and then the climbing stays overhanging on big, juggy huecoes (10+).
The route doesn't quite pack the multiple crux punch of "Real Men of Genius", but it is pretty sweet.
It is an excellent route with some 10d/11a slabbing that leads to a crux around the 6th bolt. The crux involves some insecure sidepulling and footwork to work through an overhanging apex. This is difficult to onsight but not so bad if you know where you are going.
After the crux, there is a no hands rest and then the climbing stays overhanging on big, juggy huecoes (10+).
The route doesn't quite pack the multiple crux punch of "Real Men of Genius", but it is pretty sweet.
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