Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: Eli Helmuth & Dale Remsberg
Page Views: 1,385 total · 6/month
Shared By: Eli Helmuth on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
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Description Suggest change

All three of the routes on this south-facing buttress are classic. Cat Dancing is typical thin, flared Lumpy and requires skill in placing solid RPs and provides a good calf pump. Ramses has two challenging cruxes at roofs, with a runout (and slightly loose) 5.9 section to reach the wildness. King Tut pulls three roofs up the middle of the cliff and feels more like a sport climb with big reaches and powerful moves on solid gear. All three of these routes provide a range of climbing styles and represent the diversity of climbing that Lumpy Ridge contains.

Protection Suggest change

This route sits between the classic pitches of Ramses (10c/d) and The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing (11a) on the Isis Buttress which splits the corridors of the Renaissance and Living Dead Walls.

This new route starts as for Cat Dancing but pulls the first roof right of Cat and past the one bolt on the new line. Go straight up through the next overlap (small but solid gear available) to a crux finish below the final roof. Protection for the crux consists of a solid #3 Camalot and a solid #1 TCU before reachy moves below the final roof. Doubles of #1 and #2 TCUs are helpful. There is a new two-bolt anchor directly at the top of this pitch which also works as an anchor for the two routes on either side.

A 30 meter rappel down and west brings you to a ledge with a large tree from which you can traverse north off of the cliff.

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Almost done. A big jug is one move further.
Almost done. A big jug is one move further.
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Making for what was for us the crux moves. There is a big undercling for your right hand. The goal is to get the underclings at the ceiling. When leading Ramses I used the undercling by Chuck's right foot with my left hand, so the routes touch at this point.
Making for what was for us the crux moves. Ther…
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Trying to climb the headwall directly. This would be a better line, but is much harder than the rest of the route. Maybe 12? The actual route moves straight right from Chuck to touch Ramses and then up and left into the short left facing corner. It looked to me that the gear for these moves is down and left from Chuck's right foot.
Trying to climb the headwall directly. This wou…
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Making the hard moves to the second ceiling (hard 10?) at the bolt. The bolt is near Chuck's right foot. There is a big jug over the ceiling, and the ceiling itself is very easy.
Making the hard moves to the second ceiling (ha…
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The route and the Isis buttress. Chuck is at the first hard moves. You can climb the roof in the center or further right. We climbed to the ceiling using the easy cracks below Chuck's left foot, but you can also climb the shallow left facing corner further right. It's about hard 10 to move from the top of that corner to the ceiling.
The route and the Isis buttress. Chuck is at th…
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Dale Remsberg on the first attempt at an FA on King Tut, Isis Buttress- Lumpy Ridge. The one bolt on this pitch is a body length above Dale.
Dale Remsberg on the first attempt at an FA on…
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