The Mission Wall Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 6,600 ft |
GPS: |
39.7392, -105.323 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 68,023 total · 240/month |
Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
The Mission Wall is a large, dark presence in Clear Creek Canyon that sits just across the river from the Wall of The '90s. Facing North and East, the crag sees little action, and coupled with the present need to wade the creek is never likely to be very popular. However, the brooding presence of The Mission Wall in the winter takes on a much more alluring character in the heat of the summer when it can be the most inviting place in Clear Creek. The crag hosts some of the more difficult lines in Clear Creek and some of the longest. The rock is not overall the best, but the routes that have gone in are largely on very nice stone. Presently two long three pitch routes exist along with a two pitch line and several single pitch routes. Over the years, some powerful guns have established the major routes. Jimmy Surette, Steve Landin, and Greg Purnell have all put up fine routes between 5.12 and middle 5.13. A few easier lines exist as well.
Getting There
The Mission Wall lies just West of tunnel two in Clear Creek Canyon. Parking can be had in the same spot used for The Wall of The '90s, that although once generous, has been recently reduced by the CDOT. Access to The Mission Wall has always been a problem. In a good year, the Tyrolean traverses remain in place long enough to get in some good climbing days on The Mission Wall. In a bad year, such as last year, they all get chopped. All of the half dozen Tyroleans put in place by Greg Purnell in 2000 have been vandalized or chopped. Presently, we have no good answer for this dilemma.
For the wire tyrolean, a metal pulley is recommended to avoid chewing through your carabiners. Safety glasses or sunglasses will help with the metal shavings, too.
Per Conner Choi: the wire tyrolean is now equipped with 5 metal rings for crossing. On a warm winter day, you simply walk across the frozen river.
L->R: (in progress)
Ground level:
A. It's Not You, It's Me, 9+, 3p, 200', gear.
B. Ride the Snake, 9+, 2p, 140', bolts & gear.
C. Gneiss Route, 12-, 2p, bolts.
D. Billy, 11, 1p, 120', bolts.
E. Wild Child, 11, 4p, 320', bolts.
F. Eye of the Beholder, 10, 4p, 320', bolts & gear.
G. Challenger, 11, 1p, bolts.
HG. Ground Control to Gumby One, 10-, 1p, bolts.
I. Floorshow, 12 A0, 2-4p, bolts.
J. Behind the Sun, 12, 2p, bolts. 140' & R of Floorshow.
120-140' up:
L. Garrett's Revenge, 12-, 2p, bolts & gear.
M. Billy The Kid, 12, bolts & gear.
N. Gneiss Roof, 9+, 2p, bolts & gear.
O. Rocketman, 12+, 2p, bolts.
Near the top (Surette Ledge):
R. Unknown, bolts.
S. Surette Route aka Three Points of Contact, 13, bolts.
T. Unknown, bolts.
U. Unknown, bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Mission Wall
Weather Averages
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