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Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 14
votes
Routes in Monument Canyon
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Big Bertha T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Big Foot T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Carter Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Circle, Square, and the Triangle S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crispy Corner V-easy 3 |
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Da Nada 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
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Desert Solitaire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c C0 |
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Egypt Rock - The Revolution Will Not be Televised T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Elephant Head T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Euro Route T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Friends Can't Be Trusted S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Get A Life T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Higher Mind Dynamics S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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It Ain't Over Til It's Loose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Left Dihedral aka Dihedral 1 aka First Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Luhr's Route aka Right Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monolith Spire - Dewar Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mormon Tea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Otto's Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pharaoh Point - Chimney Wide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 R |
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Pina Colada V2 5+ |
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Route 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Route 4 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Short Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake Eyes V1 5 |
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Unknown Tower - Northwest Face T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Wide Load AKA Industrial Strength T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wide Load aka Route 3 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wingate Warrior S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wizard I T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Guy Lord and company |
| Page Views: | 4,092 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Troy from Tooele on Oct 9, 2002 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Covered in Eric Bjorstad's book, I stumbled upon this climb. It is about 1/4" up (west) of the concentration of slab routes lower in the canyon.
Ascend a delightful finger crack to a ledge. This crack faces east. Above the crack clip a few bolts then move up and left into a corner. Another clip and one or two pieces of gear will get you to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. This route is surprisingly good. Except for a sugary section halfway up, the route is quite clean. With more travel, it'll get even cleaner. There are two slab moves.
I personally felt this to be better than Carter's 5.8 dihedral and Luhrs Route.
Ascend a delightful finger crack to a ledge. This crack faces east. Above the crack clip a few bolts then move up and left into a corner. Another clip and one or two pieces of gear will get you to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. This route is surprisingly good. Except for a sugary section halfway up, the route is quite clean. With more travel, it'll get even cleaner. There are two slab moves.
I personally felt this to be better than Carter's 5.8 dihedral and Luhrs Route.
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