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Routes in The Dome
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Bishop Jaggers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bolts to Somewhere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burke Box Ball Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Connections T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dire Straits T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dos Equis T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fuzzy Thinking T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Look out, Sarah! T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pornographic Motions T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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PTL Club T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Resurrection T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rhythm Scratch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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RU Red I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Sea Of Holes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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South Side Johnny T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sposi-Isaacs Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Topographical Oceans T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Village People T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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YMCA Right Variation aka Tom's Crack Attack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | tobias ?? |
| Page Views: | 662 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | tobi p on Nov 29, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Location: see location for South Side Johnny in this same area--Southside Cracks of the Dome. (Just over and down from the ridge between the Dome and the Bishop.) This is a short crack, from fingers to hands to off-width. You'll see it on your right as you approach SSJ. It's located in the photo below just before you get to #11, Twist and Shout. It faces due west.
The climb: I couldn't find this route mentioned in either Hubbel's or Trout's books. Don't know if I can really claim the first ascent, but since no one else has...
You'll need four-five large cams for the first section, a vertical crack that widens as it goes. Decent jamming. I grabbed a big, sketchy flake inside the crack about twenty-five feet up where it had widened, which gave some respite from strenuous climbing. However, this flake is no longer there. My partner pulled or pushed the thing out after he was past. (It made a helluva crash below. I couldn't see anything and was a tad worried; I figured he'd either taken out his wife (hence the climb's name), or my dog, or both... but he'd cleared them out of the way first.) So this climb may be a bit harder now...
Anyway, once you're past the steep section you can set up a belay and bring your partner up to the midway point, then walk across to the north and pick the next short crack you like (there are at least three to choose from). Instead of doing this, I climbed straight on. After the slab, there's one 5.9+ move that takes a medium/small cam to protect, then you can run it out up the easier slab above.
The descent: it's long and circuitous! You may want to climb some of the short cracks at the midway section to get your money's worth before you top out. Anyway, climb on up the gully; there's a wicked off-width on your right. Then circle back around to your left-- north (more good looking single pitch cracks there), then west, and work your way out down slabs and boulders. Cool area. Great views of mountains south of Mt Evans, and back at Pikes Peak as well. Hardly anyone seems to go out here...
The climb: I couldn't find this route mentioned in either Hubbel's or Trout's books. Don't know if I can really claim the first ascent, but since no one else has...
You'll need four-five large cams for the first section, a vertical crack that widens as it goes. Decent jamming. I grabbed a big, sketchy flake inside the crack about twenty-five feet up where it had widened, which gave some respite from strenuous climbing. However, this flake is no longer there. My partner pulled or pushed the thing out after he was past. (It made a helluva crash below. I couldn't see anything and was a tad worried; I figured he'd either taken out his wife (hence the climb's name), or my dog, or both... but he'd cleared them out of the way first.) So this climb may be a bit harder now...
Anyway, once you're past the steep section you can set up a belay and bring your partner up to the midway point, then walk across to the north and pick the next short crack you like (there are at least three to choose from). Instead of doing this, I climbed straight on. After the slab, there's one 5.9+ move that takes a medium/small cam to protect, then you can run it out up the easier slab above.
The descent: it's long and circuitous! You may want to climb some of the short cracks at the midway section to get your money's worth before you top out. Anyway, climb on up the gully; there's a wicked off-width on your right. Then circle back around to your left-- north (more good looking single pitch cracks there), then west, and work your way out down slabs and boulders. Cool area. Great views of mountains south of Mt Evans, and back at Pikes Peak as well. Hardly anyone seems to go out here...
Photos
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