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Routes in J-Crack Slab Area
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Adventures of B-Dog, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Alien Algorithm T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Campground, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cave Exit, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cavity, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Endless Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fascist Drill in the West T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Femp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fender T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Happy Camper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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J-Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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KOAlien T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Loose Ends T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mission Accomplished T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Mission Impossible T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Monkey on a String S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pear Buttress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pizza Face T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stretch Marks T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thindependence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Thinstone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turn the Page T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Unnamed 5.9 TR TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Visual Aids T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weekend Warrior S,TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | FA: ? |
| Page Views: | 2,236 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on May 4, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This fun, short route begins near Thindependence and Pear Buttress and ascends flawless rock. The start is somewhat hard to find. Walk to the Book, and go left just before the rock where the trail branches. Hike up around a small pinnacle and head back right toward the massive, overhanging Howling at the Wind Dihedral. Then, scramble down a short gully (between the pinnacle and the main rock) that cliffs out at a low-angle slab. The route begins just right of the arete or prow formed by the extension of the Howling Dihedral's right wall. It is just [left] of Stretch Marks and Thindependence. One can also scramble up from the start to Pear Buttress area routes; follow your nose.
The route follows a thin corner just right of the prow. The crux, 30 feet up, is protected by shallow, RP-sized placements--if these fail, you'd deck. The pitch remains interesting and about 5.8; climb up and pass through a short slot. Just above the slot one can prepare a rappel west from a horn (50 meter rope). Other options: continue straight up into P2 of Pear Buttress (possibly finding fixed rappel anchors atop the route Toot after about 30 feet); or, ten feet above the slot, one can traverse right down a sloping ramp to the second pitches of Loose Ends and Visual Aids.
The route follows a thin corner just right of the prow. The crux, 30 feet up, is protected by shallow, RP-sized placements--if these fail, you'd deck. The pitch remains interesting and about 5.8; climb up and pass through a short slot. Just above the slot one can prepare a rappel west from a horn (50 meter rope). Other options: continue straight up into P2 of Pear Buttress (possibly finding fixed rappel anchors atop the route Toot after about 30 feet); or, ten feet above the slot, one can traverse right down a sloping ramp to the second pitches of Loose Ends and Visual Aids.
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