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Elevation: 7,650 ft
GPS: 39.98709, -105.43728
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,338 total · 316/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a good rock with variety. It has cracks, to aretes, to sheer faces. On a corner it is sheltered from the winds and car noise is at a minimum. The base is very belayer-friendly - the warm sun basks the base in sun for a long time, and there is a soft clearing around. It appears, though, that this rock does not see as much traffic as some of the rocks closer to Boulder - lichen abounds on the rock. TR: The first three routes on Nip can be toproped via a scramble to the W. side of the rock and a hairy traverse out onto a ledge. Ebb Tide is best setup right above the climb in a wide crack. The Night Train is most directly setup out on the ledge using a short vertical crack and a horizontal crack at head level for gear placement. For Heart Throb, you can use the same anchor as Night Train, but use a bolt above the roof as a directional. Bring some long slings also (about 10-15 feet). Between Nip and Tuck is a gully with access to the left and right.

L->R these appear to be:

A. Ebb Tide, 10, 1p, gear.
B1. Night Train, 9+, 1p, gear or TR.
B2. Heart Throb, 10, 1p, bolt & gear.
C1. Lethal Dose, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
C2. Small Dose, 12- R, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
D. Beguiled?, 10, 1p, gear.
E. Borrowed Time?, 10, 1p, gear.
F1. Left-Angling Crack, 9-, 1p, gear.
F2. Doc's Route, 7, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
I. Bock!, 5.7 PG-13, 50', gear.
J. Arete, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.
K Antagonism, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
L. Finger Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
M. Surprising Slab, 8, 1p, gear.
N. Hare Balls, 7, 1p, gear.
O. Old Dihedral, 5, 1p, 65', gear.
P. Dan-D-Line, 6, 1p, gear.
Q. Spread Eagles Dhare, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
R. Constrictor, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
S. Wimps, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
T. Gimps, 1p, 45', bolts.
U. Hypotenuse, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
V. Boiling Point, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
W. Argus, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
X. Mr. Stiffy, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
Y. Gyro Captain, 12, 1p, bolts.
Z. Rob's Start Direct?, 13+, 1p, bolts.
AA. Mr. Spiffy, 13-, 1p, bolts.
BB. Capital Punishment, A2 or C2, 1p, gear.

Getting There Suggest change

It's 10.5 miles from the start of the canyon, on the right side in the middle of a turn to the right. Parking is limited directly underneath, but there is parking further along.

Per Nathan Kofahl: the GPS coordinates of the parking area are:

39°59'18.4"N (39.988614) / 105°26'08.9"W (-105.4273684)

and

here is a street view where a car is parked near the crag.

26 Total Climbs

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Location: Nip and Tuck Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Nip and Tuck

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
C2
 4
Capital Punishment
Aid
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 252
Finger Crack
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 68
Hypotenuse
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
Boiling Point
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 171
Arête
Sport, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 8
Lethal Dose
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 65
Antagonism
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 10
Gyro Captain
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Mr. Spiffy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Capital Punishment
 4
C2 Aid
Finger Crack
 252
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Hypotenuse
 68
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Boiling Point
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Arête
 171
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Lethal Dose
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Antagonism
 65
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, TR
Gyro Captain
 10
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Mr. Spiffy
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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