Castle Rocks was opened to the public in May of 2003. It is a great addition to climbing community while visiting the City of Rocks. The Castle Rocks area is open to new bolted routes through a Climbing Management Plan. There is currently a good relationship between climbers and the park staff. Please try and keep this good relationship going. There is a good mix of trad and sport routes. The fixed gear must conform to the standards of the climbing management plan.
CRSP is a result of cooperation between the state government and non-profit organizations, such as The Access Fund, The Conservation Fund, and Idaho State Parks. Climbing here should be considered fragile. Stick to designated trails, be respectful, and leave no trace.
In addition to excellent routes, Castle Rocks also offers some high quality bouldering. The problems are well-worthy, aesthetic, and fun. Bouldering is somewhat "primitive" so come with an open-mind and a sense of adventure. Boulders can be found around Castle Rocks, Johnny Cash, The Hostess Gully, and Tiny Town.
Camping: There is no camping here, Suggestions include the Smokey Mountain Campground which is about 3 miles down the road and includes bathrooms and showers. Also, there are campsites that can be reserved inside of City of Rocks, as well as cabins and B&B's in Almo. Rentals and info can be found at the Almo Outpost.
Castle Rocks is located about 2 miles from City of Rocks outside the town of Almo. A road just North of Almo leads to the west for about 2 miles to the park entrance. I believe there is currently a small fee for day climbing. The approcahes to the climbs are longer than for City of Rocks. The approaches are between 20-90 minutes for the majority of the climbs.
From the South: Take interstate 84 to exit 5, just north of Snowville. Follow route 30/42 west for 20 miles and look for Strevell-Yost Road just past the Idaho border. Continue along the road until you reach a "Y", Follow the "Y" right a few miles then make a left at an intersection just past the town of Almo.
If coming from the North/West: Get on 84 and take exit 216 south on route 77, passing Delco and Albion. Continue along this road until you come to a "T" at Conner Creek. Make a right and look for signs that head to City of Rocks/Almo. Before you reach Almo, look right for a road/signs that head to Castle Rocks.
This is one of prettiest 5.11 crack lines at the City and Castle Rocks. The rating has been documented as 5.11a, but the moves at the overhang are stiff and a little bit heady for the grade.P1: Follow a shallow RF dihedral to the small overhang. The best crux gear consists of medium hexs, since the crack flares in the back. Fire the crux sequence with poor feet and hit a jug above the the overhang. There is a short section of poor rock at this point. Also, watch your gear placements at the lip...[more]Browse More Classics in ID
I'm thinking about renting the old ranch house at the entrance to Castle Rocks next summer for a group of friends to spend a week or so climbing at City and Castle Rocks. Has anyone here rented this place? I would appreciate info from any folks who have stayed there, especially regarding the number of people that it can comfortably accomodate. Thanks in advance for any comments.