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Castle Rock 
East Sector 
South Hills 
West Sector / The Sanctuary 

Castle Rocks 


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Lat, Long: 42.1354, -113.67 Map
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Administrators: grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Guy H. on Dec 20, 2005

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The Castle is the place to be!

Description 

Castle Rocks was opened to the public in May of 2003. It is a great addition to climbing community while visiting the City of Rocks. The Castle Rocks area is open to new bolted routes through a Climbing Management Plan. There is currently a good relationship between climbers and the park staff. Please try and keep this good relationship going. There is a good mix of trad and sport routes. The fixed gear must conform to the standards of the climbing management plan.

CRSP is a result of cooperation between the state government and non-profit organizations, such as The Access Fund, The Conservation Fund, and Idaho State Parks. Climbing here should be considered fragile. Stick to designated trails, be respectful, and leave no trace.

In addition to excellent routes, Castle Rocks also offers some high quality bouldering. The problems are well-worthy, aesthetic, and fun. Bouldering is somewhat "primitive" so come with an open-mind and a sense of adventure. Boulders can be found around Castle Rocks, Johnny Cash, The Hostess Gully, and Tiny Town.

Castle Rocks is informally broken into zones, for the sake of this site, we'll cover them in the more recognized sectors: Castle Rock, South Hills, East Sector, and the West Sector / The Sanctuary.

Camping: There is no camping here, Suggestions include the Smokey Mountain Campground which is about 3 miles down the road and includes bathrooms and showers. Also, there are campsites that can be reserved inside of City of Rocks, as well as cabins and B&B's in Almo. Rentals and info can be found at the Almo Outpost.


Getting There 

Castle Rocks is located about 2 miles from City of Rocks outside the town of Almo. A road just North of Almo leads to the west for about 2 miles to the park entrance. I believe there is currently a small fee for day climbing. The approcahes to the climbs are longer than for City of Rocks. The approaches are between 20-90 minutes for the majority of the climbs.

From the South: Take interstate 84 to exit 5, just north of Snowville. Follow route 30/42 west for 20 miles and look for Strevell-Yost Road just past the Idaho border. Continue along the road until you reach a "Y", Follow the "Y" right a few miles then make a left at an intersection just past the town of Almo.

If coming from the North/West: Get on 84 and take exit 216 south on route 77, passing Delco and Albion. Continue along this road until you come to a "T" at Conner Creek. Make a right and look for signs that head to City of Rocks/Almo. Before you reach Almo, look right for a road/signs that head to Castle Rocks.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rocks:
Little Time   5.6     Sport, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face
Big Time   5.7     Sport, 400 feet   Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face
Handy   5.7     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   East Sector : Comp Rock - East Face
Zinger   5.8     Sport, 3 pitches, 290 feet   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
It Takes Two   5.8     Sport, 2 pitches, 220 feet   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Fruit Pie   5.8     Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Coo Coo Cachoo   5.8+     Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet   South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
Eye-Full Tower   5.9-     Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet   South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
To Have and to Hold   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Castle Rock : Poultry Pillar - Wedding Wa...
Between Heaven and Earth   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Red Rib   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 195 feet   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Shock and Awe   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Castle Rock : West Buttress - South
Crimson Arete   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Castle Rock : Castle Rock - East Face
Jug-A-Lug   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Castle Rock : The Crack House
Shop and Compare   5.10a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 260 feet   East Sector : The Comp Wall
Mantle Dynamics   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   East Sector : Comp Rock - East Face
Twinkie   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Patina Atoll   5.11a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Honeymoon in Almo   5.11a     Sport, 100 feet   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Splitter   5.11b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet   East Sector : The Comp Wall
Browse More Classics in Castle Rocks

Featured Route For Castle Rocks
Randy gropin' the big holds on the Jug Wall

Jug Massacre 5.8+  ID : Castle Rocks : ... : Jug Wall
As the name implies, this route is crazy, juggy, hueco goodness just waiting to be slayed by your climbing prowess. The first crux between the first and second bolt feels a bit bouldery, while the second crux is up high and involves a fun deadpoint (height dependent). Overall, this route is super fun and worth the hike in my book, if you are in to moderate sport climbing. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID


Photos of Castle Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Early November storm with high winds over Castle Valley

Early November storm with high winds over Castle V...

Castle Valley in early June

Castle Valley in early June

Castle Valley early August

Castle Valley early August


Comments on Castle Rocks Add Comment
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By David Stephens
From: Spokane WA.
Sep 9, 2011

PDF Climbing Guides for Castle Rocks Zones 1 and 2

parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/assets/content/docs/Castle%20Ro>>>

parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/assets/content/docs/Castle%20Ro>>>

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Jan 31, 2012

I'm thinking about renting the old ranch house at the entrance to Castle Rocks next summer for a group of friends to spend a week or so climbing at City and Castle Rocks.
Has anyone here rented this place? I would appreciate info from any folks who have stayed there, especially regarding the number of people that it can comfortably accomodate.
Thanks in advance for any comments.

By Greg Corn
Dec 31, 2012

I got the guidebook to Castle Rocks and heard there is a closure there from a few years back, can some local please let me know what areas are affected, thanks. THinking of going this summer.