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Castle Rocks

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Castle Rock 
Castle Rocks Bouldering 
East Sector 
Johnson Creek Trail 
South Hills 
West Sector / The Sanctuary 

Castle Rocks Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 5,620'
Location: 42.1354, -113.67 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 92,193
Administrators: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Guy H. on Dec 20, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Map for Castle Rocks. CLIMBING OPEN in State Park...

BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Castle Rocks was opened to the public in May of 2003. It is a great addition to climbing community while visiting the City of Rocks. The Castle Rocks area is open to new bolted routes through a Climbing Management Plan. There is currently a good relationship between climbers and the park staff. Please try and keep this good relationship going. There is a good mix of trad and sport routes. The fixed gear must conform to the standards of the climbing management plan.

CRSP is a result of cooperation between the state government and non-profit organizations, such as The Access Fund, The Conservation Fund, and Idaho State Parks. Climbing here should be considered fragile. Stick to designated trails, be respectful, and leave no trace.

In addition to excellent routes, Castle Rocks also offers some high quality bouldering. The problems are well-worthy, aesthetic, and fun. Bouldering is somewhat "primitive" so come with an open-mind and a sense of adventure. Boulders can be found around Castle Rocks, Johnny Cash, The Hostess Gully, and Tiny Town.

Castle Rocks is informally broken into zones, for the sake of this site, we'll cover them in the more recognized sectors: Castle Rock, South Hills, East Sector, and the West Sector / The Sanctuary.

With the exception of Lone Peak (Castle Rock), the approaches to the climbs are longer than for City of Rocks. The approaches for popular destinations like Comp Rock, the Taco, Fenceline Rock, Bracksieks Pillar, etc, are between 20-40 minutes from the lower parking lot near the Ranch House. Approaches for Lone Peak, Tiny Town, West Buttress,etc, are 5- 10 minutes from the upper parking lot near the Castle Rock picnic area.

Camping: There is no camping here, Suggestions include the Smokey Mountain Campground which is about 3 miles down the road and includes bathrooms and showers. Also, there are campsites that can be reserved inside of City of Rocks, as well as cabins and B&B's in Almo. Rentals and info can be found at the Almo Outpost.

Getting There 

Castle Rocks is located about 2 miles from City of Rocks outside the town of Almo. A road just North of Almo leads to the west for about 2 miles to the park entrance. There is a $5 user fee for parking for non-Idaho residents. For Idaho residents, parking is free if you have a Idaho State Park Pass on your windshield.

From Boise (Seattle, Portland, etc): Heading east on I-84 from Boise, take exit 216 to Declo. Continue South on highway 77 through Declo and Albion. Once at the Conner Creek Junction, (a T intersection at a stop sign), turn right and go west, continuing through Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

From Pocatello (Jackson, Bozeman, etc): Heading west on I-86, take I-84 south for 4 miles and take Highway 81 to Malta. From Malta turn right and follow Highway 77 going West. Pass through Conner Creek Junction (continue straight), Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

From Salt Lake City: Head North on I-15 until Tremonton. Travel onto I-84 near Tremonton, and head northwest on I-84 towards Twin Falls/Boise. Seventy five miles after Tremonton, take exit 245 and turn left to follow Sublett road heading west into Malta. In Malta, turn left onto Highway 81 for 1/2 mile and then turn right and follow Highway 77 going West. Pass through Conner Creek Junction (continue straight), Elba and continue to Almo. Just north of Almo take a right and follow the signs to Castle Rocks.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.8 miles from here

223 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',95],['2 Stars',74],['1 Star',31],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',13],['5.7',26],['5.8',33],['5.9',30],['5.10',63],['5.11',35],['5.12',12],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',3],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Castle Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Castle Rocks:
Little Time   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 250'   Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face
Big Time   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   Castle Rock : Castle Rock - South Face
Handy   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Comp Rock : Comp Rock - East Face
Zinger   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 3 pitches, 290'   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Fruit Pie   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Eye-Full Tower   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 160'   South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
Coo Coo Cachoo   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
B Bro   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
Between Heaven and Earth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Jug-A-Lug   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Castle Rock : The Crack House
Red Rib   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 195'   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Shop and Compare   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 260'   Comp Rock : The Comp Wall
Crimson Arete   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Castle Rock : Castle Rock - East Face
Shock and Awe   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Castle Rock : West Buttress - South
Mantle Dynamics   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Comp Rock : Comp Rock - East Face
Twinkie   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Honeymoon in Almo   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 100'   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Cool Crack   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   South Hills : Bracksiek's Pillar
Splitter   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   Comp Rock : The Comp Wall
Southern Rock Opera   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Castle Rock : Hostess Gully - West Corrid...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Castle Rocks

Featured Route For Castle Rocks
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle rocks, sourcerer's stone, pole dancer (3p, ...

Pole Dancer 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  ID : Castle Rocks : ... : Sourcerer's Stone - Pole Ca...
P1 - fun 10a climbing up a left facing corner to belay atop a small tower (90')?. P2 - the crux (11a), step right about 15' then hand jam and heel hook up a crack which diagonals up and left on a steep face. Continue up a beautiful hand crack in a corner and belay where the crack ends near the arete (100'?). P3 - move left about 20' and up a chimney (10a)(100'?). ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ID

Photos of Castle Rocks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rainbow over Fenceline Rock after a big thundersto...
Rainbow over Fenceline Rock after a big thundersto...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Castle is the place to be!
The Castle is the place to be!
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Valley, July 24th, 2013
Castle Valley, July 24th, 2013
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock beginning to dry out after a late Sept...
Castle Rock beginning to dry out after a late Sept...
Rock Climbing Photo: Darius Azin contemplating Redrum (5.13), Castle Ro...
Darius Azin contemplating Redrum (5.13), Castle Ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo credit goes to Chris on this one
Photo credit goes to Chris on this one
Rock Climbing Photo: Rain over Almo as seen from the Castle Rock Parkin...
Rain over Almo as seen from the Castle Rock Parkin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Valley in early June
Castle Valley in early June
Rock Climbing Photo: Early November storm with high winds over Castle V...
Early November storm with high winds over Castle V...
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Valley early August
Castle Valley early August
Rock Climbing Photo: View to the North from the main parking area for t...
View to the North from the main parking area for t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock, as seen from the Southwest.
BETA PHOTO: Castle Rock, as seen from the Southwest.
Rock Climbing Photo: Comp Wall on a misty moisty morning.
Comp Wall on a misty moisty morning.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Comp Wall behind a couple of locals.  June 201...
The Comp Wall behind a couple of locals. June 201...
Rock Climbing Photo: Castle Rock on January 2nd, 2014
Castle Rock on January 2nd, 2014

Comments on Castle Rocks Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 11, 2016
By David Stephens
From: Spokane WA.
Sep 9, 2011
PDF Climbing Guides for Castle Rocks Zones 1 and 2

parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/a...

parksandrecreation.idaho.gov/a...
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Jan 31, 2012
I'm thinking about renting the old ranch house at the entrance to Castle Rocks next summer for a group of friends to spend a week or so climbing at City and Castle Rocks.
Has anyone here rented this place? I would appreciate info from any folks who have stayed there, especially regarding the number of people that it can comfortably accomodate.
Thanks in advance for any comments.
By Greg Corn
Dec 31, 2012
I got the guidebook to Castle Rocks and heard there is a closure there from a few years back, can some local please let me know what areas are affected, thanks. THinking of going this summer.
By Justin Lofthouse
From: Utah
Jul 4, 2014
Here are links to the ZONE 1 and 2 guide print offs.

nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/upl...

nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/upl...
By Dreez
Jul 22, 2014
The State is really spiffing the place up. New bathrooms. You can now drive right up to Castle Rock formation (3 minute walk).

Get this, They even have SIGNS that direct you to all the classic climbs as you hike around the trail.

Fantastic! Almost like climbing in Europe.

$5 day use fee but well worth it.
By Ball
From: Oakridge, OR
Jun 2, 2015
Can't tell if Dreez is serious or dripping with sarcasm.
By Troy Cobb
Jul 23, 2015
Cam and quickdraw left on Brackseiks Pillar East, Coo Coo Cachoo 5.8 2nd pitch.

I climbed at Castle rocks on the weekend of 7/18/15. First pitch of Coo Coo is all bolts so all gear was retrieved. Brought my second up to the nice ledge at the start of P2, plugged a #6 Trango (hand) clipped it with a draw and pulled the flake.

My second forgot to grab the #6 after I instructed them to unclip it to avoid drag. So right there on the P2 ledge there is a cherry just waiting to be plucked. Orange nail polish as gear marker on cam and draw

Will pay shipping and a finders fee!
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Sep 6, 2015
Any camping closer then City of Rocks?
By Porter George
From: City of Rocks, Idaho
Sep 6, 2015
Unless you are willing to drop $150 a night for the Ranch House, City of Rocks is the closest camping. However, the drive isn't really that bad, about 20 minutes from Castle to City. At City of Rocks, Yurts are available for around $50 a night.
By Will Cornell
Mar 11, 2016
Hey!! does anoyone know if there is a bouldering guidebook available for castle rock or city of rocks?? thanks so much!

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