Mountain Project: Climbing Wasatch Range

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on May 14, 2004
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 41.7435 Longitude: -111.7950
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Description

Limestone and quartzite climbing. Predominately sport routes. The approaches can be as small or as large as you desire, and there are many avenues for exploration. Certain climbs (21) to date have been closed to protect an endangered species (Maguire Primrose). Logan is a cool canyon, therefore winter rock-climbing is all but impossible.

Getting There

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Logan Canyon:

Cracker Jack 5.8 PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Monkey Wrench Buttress

Kentucky Fried Chicken 5.8+ Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Kentucky Fried Penguin

Kentucky Fried Penguin 5.9+ Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Kentucky Fried Penguin

Community Effort 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Fucoidal Quartzite

Illusions 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fucoidal Quartzite

Terminalogical Inaxtitude 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Fucoidal Quartzite

Cannonball 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Fucoidal Quartzite

Mission 5.10c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Fucoidal Quartzite

Begging For Bolts 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Fucoidal Quartzite

Limestone Cowboy 5.12a Sport, 70 feet Fucoidal Quartzite

Oboe 5.12a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet China Wall

Featured Route For Logan Canyon

Climbing with the USU climbing class. Terminological Inexactitude on the right, Begging for Bolts on the left.

Begging For Bolts 5.11a UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Fucoidal Quartzite

The crux comes just after mid-way (good rest right before the crux). The real challenge of this route is the continuous nature of the climbing and the length. Make sure to take enough draws. You will need to either belay on top or take two ropes to rap. (A 60 METER IS NOT LONG ENOUGH TO LOWER). This is a great route....[more] Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on Logan Canyon

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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 4, 2005

This is the old guide. The new guide has around 600 climbs (twice as much) and is avilble at nuclimbing.com

By James Garrett
Jun 26, 2008

Logan Canyon is awesome and so many good routes and potential for so many new ones. I just visited the Muelline Wall Area for the first time, and as I hadn't even known about it before the current new guide, was wondering if this is in fact a "new area". One concern, though, to those doing the developing.
1. What is with the swingset gauge chain for the anchors?
2. How many inches of bolt are actually in the rock after being threaded through the piles of chain and washers?
3. My partner and I felt many anchors looked unsafe and the chain is just too thin on almost all of the routes up there and elsewhere? We didn't lower either, just rapped.
But certainly, all in all,.........great climbing you people up in Logan have...and keep up the good work scoping out such spectacular lines....more multi-pitch!!!! I love climbing to the tops of those beautiful limestone aretes and buttresses up in Logan!

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