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Above and Beyond Wall Aguaworld Ambush Wall. Aqueduct Area, The Art Major Wall Autumnal Wall Battalion of Saints Wall Beachball Crag Beer Belly Buttress Broads Fork Burnt Wall, The Challenge Buttress Chips Wall Choss Garden Creekside Crag Dark Star Gully Dead Snag, The Deadwood Dogwood Crag Face to Face Geezer Wall Generator Ribs Glass Ocean and Environs Gully of Higher Education Half Moon Rock Highlander JHCOB Wall Lone Pine Wall Lonely Challenge Wall Lonesome Buttress Margin for Air Wall and Environs Millstone, The Molar, The Moss Ledges Mule Hollow Wall Narcolepsy Area Native American Crag Penguin, The Penitentiary Wall Powder Ridge Wall Power Plant Red Rock Wall Redrum Resurrection Rolling Stone Area S-Curve - Lower Wall S-Curve - The Pile S-Curve - Upper Wall Salt Lake Slips Seldom Scene Gully Shady Lane Short Steep Stuff Silver Fork East Face Silver Fork West Facing Speed Trap, The Standard Ridge Storm Mountain Picnic Area Stratagem Strone Crag Sundial Talk Buttress Tear Garden Tree Trimmer Wall Wave Wall, The Wedge, The Wrenched Ones Wall, Upper Wall. Yellow Peril Wall |
DescriptionOf the two Cottonwood Canyons, BCC is lesser known for its amazing climbing. Despite this, there are hundreds of routes on dozens of crags scattered throughout the length and on either side of the canyon. Climbing is primarily on quartzite which tends to be slippery and hard, however it also offers numerous holds jutting out at all angles. Because protection may be more difficult in quartzite than in the granite of LCC, BCC tends to have more sport routes, but the majority are trad climbs. Some of the picnic areas have entrance fees. Ice ClimbingThere are a handful of ice routes in BCC. Almost all of them are on the North side of the canyon and receive a lot of sunlight so they don't often come in real thick. But when they do it makes for some enjoyable climbing. Probably not recommended for beginners because the routes are mostly thin, but during a thick year one can find an occasional short climb with top rope potential. BCC ice generally comes in late and leaves early. Getting ThereBig Cottonwood Canyon climbs east out of Salt Lake City at about 7200 South. From the North, take the I-215 loop to Exit 6, the 6200 South Exit. Head East on Hwy 190, following signs to the ski areas of BCC (Solitude and Brighton). Turn left on Fort Union Blvd, which heads up into the canyon. From the east, 7200 South becomes Fort Union. From the south, follow Wasatch Blvd and turn right on Fort Union. The 7-11 on the corner of Wasatch and Fort Union is a good place to stock up on Mtn Dew. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Cottonwood Canyon:
Jig's Up 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 380 feet The Dead Snag
Steorts' Ridge 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet The Dead Snag
Jam Crack Route 5.6 Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II Mule Hollow Wall
Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed 5.7 Trad, 5 pitches, 300 feet Mule Hollow Wall
Outside Corner 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet JHCOB Wall
Glass Ocean 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Glass Ocean and Environs
Hollow Man 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces
Coral Bells Arete 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Challenge Buttress : East Face
Sin Nombre 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Bumble Bee Wall
High Dive 5.9+ Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Glass Ocean and Environs
Chambered Nautilus 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Challenge Buttress : East Face
Dream Slate 5.10a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Narcolepsy Area
Better than Bitter 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces
Goodro's Wall 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island
Psychobabble 5.10c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Psychobabble Wall
Weed Killer 5.11a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet JHCOB Wall
Black Monday 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet S-Curve - Lower Wall
Stone Ground 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Millstone
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces
Big in Japan 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island
Featured Route For Big Cottonwood Canyon
High Dive 5.9+ UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Glass Ocean and Environs
High Dive is a really cool route. It can be done as one or two pitches, and has a couple of different approaches. One way to get up to it is to get on top of the large block on the left side of the Glass Ocean wall. Do this by either climbing Lord of Long Arms, Atlantis, or scrambling from the left. From here, the route climbs through some fixed pitons. The other approach, which I used, starts from the anchors on top of pitch 1 of the Northwe...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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