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Big Cottonwood Canyon

Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on May 6, 2003
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 40.6193  Longitude: -111.7890 
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BETA PHOTO: This shot was taken near the intersection at the m...


Description 

Of the two Cottonwood Canyons, BCC is lesser known for its amazing climbing. Despite this, there are hundreds of routes on dozens of crags scattered throughout the length and on either side of the canyon. Climbing is primarily on quartzite which tends to be slippery and hard, however it also offers numerous holds jutting out at all angles. Because protection may be more difficult in quartzite than in the granite of LCC, BCC tends to have more sport routes, but the majority are trad climbs. Some of the picnic areas have entrance fees.


Ice Climbing 

There are a handful of ice routes in BCC. Almost all of them are on the North side of the canyon and receive a lot of sunlight so they don't often come in real thick. But when they do it makes for some enjoyable climbing. Probably not recommended for beginners because the routes are mostly thin, but during a thick year one can find an occasional short climb with top rope potential. BCC ice generally comes in late and leaves early.


Getting There 

Big Cottonwood Canyon climbs east out of Salt Lake City at about 7200 South. From the North, take the I-215 loop to Exit 6, the 6200 South Exit. Head East on Hwy 190, following signs to the ski areas of BCC (Solitude and Brighton). Turn left on Fort Union Blvd, which heads up into the canyon. From the east, 7200 South becomes Fort Union. From the south, follow Wasatch Blvd and turn right on Fort Union. The 7-11 on the corner of Wasatch and Fort Union is a good place to stock up on Mtn Dew.



Featured Route For Big Cottonwood Canyon
Final pitch of Steort's Ridge, with thunder moving in.

Steorts' Ridge 5.6  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Dead Snag
Locate the obvious arete that divides the north and east faces of the cliff. Begin left of the arete.Pitch 1:Face and crack climb up and over the roof (5.6). Continue up easier, broken rock to belay on good ledge atop pillar below slanted roof.Pitch 2:Climb up right and follow wide crack left of arete to small belay stance on the arete.Pitch 3:Face climb up the steep, exposed arete, stay out on the arete as much as possible moving at times from ...[more]


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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 20, 2004

A road trip is perfect in SLC. The climbing (and skiing, from what i hear) is superb. It's also a nice place to live if you (a) are an ultra conservative right wing nutcase (b) just want to climb and don't care about the environment, politics, lack of work/livable wages, lack of a good drink at a decent price, repressive culture, etc., but don't knock the climbing.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 19, 2004

Despite the prevalent population base, Utah is surpassed by very few in terms of rock climbing. A road trip to Utah, or Salt Lake City should not be avoided because of an assumed run in with religious locals or political ideology. If you purposely schedule a road trip away from Utah for this reason, you are ignorant. The fact is Salt Lake City and surrounding areas are home to beautiful granite cracks, and tendon popping boulder problems in Little Cottonwood Canyon, challenging and scenic quartzite routes, pro and bolted, in Big Cottonwood. There are complex sandstone boulder problems in Joes Valley, phenomenal and isolated routes and bouldering at Ibex, pocketed limestone in American Fork and pristine, fun, and challenging limestone in the scenic Logan Canyon, a definite must. Give it a try, but don't knock it till you have tried it.

Matt Stephens

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 15, 2005

I agree. I dont think anyone should move to SLC or stop on a road trip to climb. That way I can continue to climb on some of the best routes in the world and not have to wait in line or worry about crowds.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 27, 2005

Lack of work and livable wages? Are you serious? You must not look too hard for a job, cause 20,000 people a year move to utah for work. There is tons of work, cheap cost of living, terribly bloating 3.2 beer, and a CRAPLOAOD of climbing, of all types. But oh yeah, the people, and the crowds, and the politics....ya'll best just stay away, you'll hate it for sure.

By worfeus
Mar 4, 2006

I explored and climbed most of the crags from 5-3 to 5-11 + in Salt Lake for a full 10 years. During that time I had the best climbing days of my life in Big Cottonwood Canyon, meeting and climbing with some of the great old timers like Jerry Stovall, Stan Cantrell, Merrill Bitter, Gordon Douglass, Bobbie Bensmen and others.

They were great times, and the routes are some of the best juggy nobby quartzite sport and trad routes you can imagine, all in a beautiful accessible location.

You can't beat Big Cottonwood in this lowly climbers opinion.

By Price
From: Sandy, UT
Jul 26, 2007

Actually, you should stay away from SLC if you are a religious bigot. The Mormons are nice and the climbing is spectacular.