BETA PHOTO: Babo from the east. The SE arete route follows th...
Description
For those seeking a backcountry climbing experience with big payoff, Baboquivari Peak may be just what the doctor ordered. This 7,734-foot peak, visible to the west from Tucson, is one the few in Arizona that requires technical climbing to summit. It also rewards climbers with a rare 360-degree summit view, as most Arizona peaks are obscured by heavy forest.
Though Baboquivari hosts all of the Grade VI climbs in Arizona, one need not climb A4 to enjoy the summit. The Southeast Arete (III 5.6) is the most popular route, with three-star climbing and breathtaking exposure. There are also two 'hikers' routes, one of which includes only about 80 feet of easy technical climbing on the famed 'Ladder Pitch'. Routes are accessed via Lion's Ledge.
While the climbs can be approached from the east or west, the western side of Baboquivari Peak lies on the Tohono O'odham Nation. The mountain is of immense cultural and religious importance to the native people, and should be treated with due respect.
Descending from the summit of 'Babo' can be notoriously epic. It is customary to bring a small gift to the summit to appease I'itoi. This, and some detailed beta, should help greatly with the descent.
For more information and a bit of interesting background on Baboquivari, see Bob Kerry's guide 'Backcountry Climbing in Southern Arizona.'
Getting There
Drive south on I-19 from Tucson, and exit Ajo Way (Hwy 86), heading west towards Robles Junction and Sells. Depending on your intended route and willingness to bushwack, make a decision to approach from east or west.
East:A four wheel drive or high clearance vehicle is recommended for this approach. Drive Hwy 86 west to Robles Junction and turn south on Hwy 286. Continue on for 29 miles, then take the first right after mp 16. Stay on this road for 2.7 miles, taking the first dirt road forking to the right. You will reach a sign and a gate at 6.5 miles. Park and continue through the gate on foot. After about a half mile, you will directed around the house and corrals to the trail up Thomas Canyon. This trail will put you on the saddle below Babo in two to three hours. Expect difficult route-finding.
West:Continue on Hwy 86 past Robles Junction to Sells. In Sells, take the 'business loop' and make a turn south toward the settlement of Topawa. Turn left at the sign for 'Baboquivari Park' and follow a good dirt road 10 miles to a fork. Go right. This will take you to Baboquivari Camp, which is operated and maintained by the Tohono O'odham nation.It is a great place have base camp. From camp, it is about two hours to the saddle, depending on party speed. The trail is well established and nearly impossible to lose.
East/West: From the saddle, it is another half hour to an hour hike to Lion's Ledge. Many parties drop packs and rack up at the saddle. It is also a nice place to bivy if you want to hike in the night before. Lion's Ledge is the large, heavily vegetated ledge running across most of the east and south faces, by which most routes are accessed.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Baboquivari Peak:
An ascent of the Forbes Route is an outing not to be missed, earning three stars not for the technical climbing, but for the experience as a whole. The mountain will make you earn its summit; with a lengthy approach, unmarked trails, fickle weather by Southern Arizona standards, and virtually unprotected yet straightforward climbing, it defines the classic Arizona mountaineering experience. Hikers who know how to belay and rappel can as...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
The most important thing to know is how to pronounce the name Baboquivari. It's bad enough that you're traipsing around on O'odham creator I'itoi's sacred domain. To be making gringo mispronunciations within earshot of the Man himself isn't going improve your chances of making it back to the camp by nightfall. I believe the correct stress is on the KEE syllable. It is _Bab - oh - KEE - var - ee_, not _Bab - oh - kee - VAR - ee_. It's said like _den-of-thievery_, not like _bought-a-Ferrari_* or _shot o' Bacardi_.
I recently approached from the east and didn't have any of the problems listed up above. Although the dirt road after 286 is a bit rough, I believe its passable by a passenger car in good weather. Second, the trail from the ranch to the saddle is actually quite good. It follows the streambed for a ways, but eventually heads out of the drainage on the right, where it switchbacks up to the saddle. From the saddle to Lion's Ledge is a different story, but that's an adventure whether you approach from west or east...
the falcon guide has a lot of mistakes for the se arete. i wrote up a quick beta-page (http://www.electricant.net/beta/babo.htm) which should set the record straight for all you fellow backcountry guide-less brethren.
The Falcon guide descent beta sucks. If starting from the east it gives very little info on how to descend after the rappels. We did a lot of unnecessary rappelling and bushwacking. There had to be a better way. Oh well, it was an adventure.
By James DeRoussel Administrator From: Tucson, AZ May 6, 2005
Buy Backcountry Climbing is Southern Arizona if you want any degree of quality information. Trusting the Falcon guide is a recipe for an epic.
The east side trail is extremely overgrown right now. Maybe its a seasonal thing and will be better in a month or so. Wear long pants and be prepared to hunt around for the trail.
East trail is easy to find. Descend the Forbes Route. When you reach the bottom of the Ladder pitch, move immediately north to the slabs through some bushes. Keep heading northerly on the slabs and you will come to the second rap point. After that rap, keep moving down and north to the chock stone and single line rap down that and follow the trail to the saddle. Kerry's beta on descending the Forbes route is spot on. Bring a light rack for the S E Arete route. You can get by with cams smaller than a # 3 Camalot. Enjoy yourself and have a great time.
Printer Friendly View
RSS Feed
Slideshow
