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Middle Peyote Crack
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.7 from 87
votes
Routes in Peyote Cracks Formation - W. Face
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Ayahuasca Slab TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Button Soup T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c R |
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Face It T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Left Peyote Crack T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Matt's Problem T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Middle Peyote Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Right Peyote Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown (Peyote) Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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When You're A Poodle T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zygote T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,765 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 22, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The crux of this crack is low to the ground and is passed quickly- if you can protect overhead, this makes it a reasonable lead to push your grade on.
There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall, The center of these starts with a slightly overhanging odd jam and proceeds upwards to easier territory. The climb protects from the ground and then again at the crux to make the leader pretty safe. Climb up on awkward moves (5.9 crux) to reach a lower angle jam crack above (5.6?) and proceed to the top.
The anchor up top requires cams of various sizes and a long coralette or webbing.
There are 3 obvious cracks on the E. Face of the Peyote Cracks Wall, The center of these starts with a slightly overhanging odd jam and proceeds upwards to easier territory. The climb protects from the ground and then again at the crux to make the leader pretty safe. Climb up on awkward moves (5.9 crux) to reach a lower angle jam crack above (5.6?) and proceed to the top.
The anchor up top requires cams of various sizes and a long coralette or webbing.
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