Onion Creek is a small complicated area of Cutler sandstone towers and walls. Most of the activity here is on the Hindu, the Mongoose, and Sari - a cluster of three towers right next to Onion Creek Road. There are also many walls and towers along the slot canyon leading to the mystery towers which sport some fixed anchors and have a great deal of new route potential. As with all areas on Cutler, be wary of loose rock, bad anchors, and scary free climbing.
The Onion Creek Road is in between the turnoff to Castle Valley and the Fisher Towers on River Road(SH 128). The turnoff is about 22 miles northeast of Moab. There is great free camping along Onion Creek Road on designated BLM sites. The Hindu, Mongoose, and Sari will be obvious on the right side of the road after many creek crossings, and the slot canyon leading to the Mystery Towers is not far past this point. The road is rough but passable for passenger cars most of the time-if the road is wet or icy 4WD is a good idea.
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Onion Creek:
The Forrest/Briggs Indirect ( The Mugacki Variation) 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a A2+ Aid, 4 pitches, 540' Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Citadel
Doric Column 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c A2+ Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 340' Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Doric Column
The Big Nasty 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c A4 Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 550' Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Doric Column
Something Wicked This Way Comes 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a A2+ Aid, 6 pitches, 650' Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare
Cooler than Jesus 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 3 pitches, 300' Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Top of the World Overlook
Featured Route For Onion Creek
Something Wicked This Way Comes 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a A2+ UT : Moab Area : ... : Gothic Nightmare
"Something Wicked This Way Comes" is a phenomenal climb up a sweet tower. That being said, it is a bit sandbagged and you will want some Fisher's experience unless you have cajones or ovaries of steel/brass. Here is the breakdown on the pitches. I will refer to the pitches listed in the Desert Rock III book although on our ascent we deviated a bit.P1- Broke this honker of a pitch down into two pitches. P1a- Start in a right facing crack/roof system off the ground. Make sure to go through th...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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