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Onion Creek
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Hindu, The 
Mongoose, The 
Mystery Towers & Top of the World Overlook 
Roadside Cragging 
Sari 
Trojan, The 

Onion Creek 


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Lat, Long: 38.6962, -109.3137 Map
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on May 12, 2002

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Description 

Onion Creek is a small complicated area of Cutler sandstone towers and walls. Most of the activity here is on the Hindu, the Mongoose, and Sari - a cluster of three towers right next to Onion Creek Road. There are also many walls and towers along the slot canyon leading to the mystery towers which sport some fixed anchors and have a great deal of new route potential. As with all areas on Cutler, be wary of loose rock, bad anchors, and scary free climbing.


Getting There 

The Onion Creek Road is in between the turnoff to Castle Valley and the Fisher Towers on River Road(SH 128). The turnoff is about 22 miles northeast of Moab. There is great free camping along Onion Creek Road on designated BLM sites. The Hindu, Mongoose, and Sari will be obvious on the right side of the road after many creek crossings, and the slot canyon leading to the Mystery Towers is not far past this point. The road is rough but passable for passenger cars most of the time-if the road is wet or icy 4WD is a good idea.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Onion Creek:
Doric Column   5.8 A2+     Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 340 feet, Grade IV   Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Doric Column
The Big Nasty   5.8 A4     Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 550 feet   Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Doric Column
Maverick   5.9 C2     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 250 feet, Grade III   The Hindu
Something Wicked This Way Comes   5.9 A2+     Aid, 6 pitches, 650 feet, Grade VI   Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare
Everyman's Endless Edge   5.9+ A1+     Trad, Aid, 17 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade VI   The Trojan
Cooler than Jesus   5.10a     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Top of the World Overlook
Browse More Classics in Onion Creek

Featured Route For Onion Creek
Jeremy Roop getting set for P1b.

Something Wicked This Way Comes 5.9 A2+  UT : Moab Area : ... : Gothic Nightmare
"Something Wicked This Way Comes" is a phenomenal climb up a sweet tower. That being said, it is a bit sandbagged and you will want some Fisher's experience unless you have cajones or ovaries of steel/brass. Here is the breakdown on the pitches. I will refer to the pitches listed in the Desert Rock III book although on our ascent we deviated a bit.P1- Broke this honker of a pitch down into two pitches. P1a- Start in a right facing crack/roof system off the ground. Make sure to go through th...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Onion Creek Slideshow Add Photo
The Mongoose.

The Mongoose.

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