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Moab Area

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 1, 2001
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Elevation: 4,025 feet
Latitude: 38.5632  Longitude: -109.5420 
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BETA PHOTO: Aerial view of Castleton Tower, the Rectory, and t...


Description 

The Moab area in the eastern section of Utah is amazlingly rich with bountiful opportunities for the rock climber who can appreciate the stark beauty of soft sandstone in a desert environment. There is more than a lifetime of climbing here!

Moab is a small community, located along US 191 at the intersection with SR 128 (River Rd) south of I-70, which has become popular with the climbing and mountain biking communities of late. Its elevation at 4025' make spring and fall make for the most pleasant times for visitors. It is generally quite dry here; however, wandering along the River Road after a large rainfall can provide spectacular waterfall viewing.

Here, you can find climbs ranging from 1 pitch sport climbs up to 600' desert spires to multi-day adventures on the 900' The Titan to 1200' ridge/aid climbs like Everyman's Endless Edge. Desert spires can be hauntingly beautiful like Moses, Zeus, and Aphrodite in Taylor Canyon. Of course, there is the world-class desert crack climbing of Indian Creek. There miles and miles of cliffs along the River Road. You will find an wide range of subtle variations in rock type: the splitter-crack-forming Windgate, the ultra-soft Entrada, the gorgeous Navajo, the oddly solid-yet crumbly Cutler, the interesting mid-layers of Chinle, Kayenta, and more. You must be cautious treading on desert rock for longer-than-you-think after any significant precipitation. Most folks will find the Windgate to be most inviting here.

You climbing armamentarium will likely include beefier ropes, helmets, plenty of cams, a healthy supply of tape, and likely some anti-inflammatories for afterwards. Most adventure climbs will require at least a double set of cams. New climbs may require investigation of the pro & cons of desert anchors like drilled angle pins vs. expansion bolts vs. glue-in bolts. You will likely find your gear shedding red sandstone dust for days after your visits. New climbs in the National Parks may require particular creativity for new anchors. Some adventure climbs will require high-clearance 4WD type vehicle to allow access.

You can climb truly roadside all the way to real adventure climbing. Weather can vary from extremes of debilitating heat to mud-trapping rain storms to frosty climes. Pay particular attention to quick-moving lightning storms, since these are probably a climber's biggest threat here.

Be particularly careful with the delicate cryptogametic soils in the area which are key in providing soil stability and microbiotic communities in what looks like mud.

There are some areas with strict regulations, particularly in the National Parks like Canyonlands N.P. and Arches N.P. So, check in advance. In particular, be extremely respectful of any petroglyphs or pictographs you find.

Nonetheless, come find your personal gems here....


Accomodations 

There are a variety of options here which range from primitive bivies, to BLM camping for pay or not, to National Park camping, to motels or hotels in Moab, to fancy resort/ranch accomodations along the River Road or Castle Valley, to bed & breakfasts in Moab.


Guidebooks 

There have been a decent assortment of rock guidebooks to the area. E. Bjornstad's Desert Rock, Desert Rock I, Desert Rock II, Desert Rock IV, F. Knapp's Classic Desert Climbs, M. Comacchione's 200 Select Classic Indian Creek guidebook, Sharp End's Indian Creek Climbs, & S. Green's Rock Climbing Utah can provide starting points for your adventures.

For ice climbers, consider, D. Black's Ice Climbing Utah by Falcon Press.


Rest day activities 

If you must rest, you can select from options like rafting, mountain-biking, hiking, petroglyph viewing, wine tasting at the Castle River wineries, flying, fishing, canyoneering, and general tourist activities here. Moab provides a central point for a wealth of non-climbing adventures.


Organizations 

Note, that the Access Fund in conjuction with dedicated local climbers have been particularly pivotal in the area in preserving access to these local & national treasures. Immense thanks to those involved!


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moab Area:
North Chimney   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Kor-Ingalls Route   5.9     Trad, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Flakes of Wrath   5.9+     Trad, TR   Potash Road : Wall Street
Generic Crack   5.9+     Trad   Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon
Blue Sun   5.10-     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Indian Creek : Way Rambo
3AM Crack   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Stolen Chimney   5.10     Trad   Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
Supercrack of the Desert   5.10     Trad   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Jah Man   5.10     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II   Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group
Incredible Hand Crack   5.10c     Trad   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Fine Jade   5.11a     Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III   Castle Valley : The Rectory
Honeymoon Chimney   5.11a     Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III   Castle Valley : The Priest
Pente   5.11-     Trad   Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall
Lightning Bolt Cracks   5.11-     Trad, Grade III   Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak
North Face   5.11b     Trad, Grade III   Castle Valley : Castleton Tower
Scarface   5.11     Trad   Indian Creek : Scarface
Primrose Dihedrals   5.11+     Trad, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV   Island In The Sky : Moses
King Cat   5.11+     Trad   Indian Creek : Cat Wall
Coyne Crack   5.12a     Trad   Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress
Way Rambo   5.12-     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Indian Creek : Way Rambo
Browse More Classics in Moab Area


Featured Route For Moab Area
A great route with three distinct sections.

Family Home Night 5.12  UT : Moab Area : ... : 2nd Meat Wall
Stellar route with difficult moves between good rests. Steep hands lead to angling off fingers and a switch around a pillar. Small nuts and a .00 TCU help protect a few faces moves up to a rest. Fire the crux off-fingers splitter which barely widens to thin hands at the top. Relish how fun the route was....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Moab Area Slideshow Add Photo
Preparing for battle;   Kyle Copeland, Dave Evans, Margy Floyd, Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford.

Preparing for battle; Kyle Copeland, D...

Got cams?    Photo; Todd Gordon Collection

Got cams? Photo; Todd Gordon Collecti...

Get organized.<br />Photo by Todd Gordon.

Get organized.
Photo by Todd Gordon.


Delicate Arch<br />Photo by: Dave Fiorucci

Delicate Arch
Photo by: Dave Fiorucci


The very talented Katie Brown climbing<br />for a  R & I photo camp

The very talented Katie Brown climbing
for a R & ...


Lisa hathaway

Lisa hathaway

Greg bouldering at Big Bend

Greg bouldering at Big Bend

Looking out over Moab and the Colorado River from the summit of the Point of Moab.<br /><br />What a fantastic place!

Looking out over Moab and the Colorado River from ...

leaving Kor Ingals in the morning

leaving Kor Ingals in the morning

NW Moab tower map.

NW Moab tower map.

Bouldering above Moab, photo: Bob Horan

Bouldering above Moab, photo: Bob Horan

Driving to Castleton. Gorgeous.

Driving to Castleton. Gorgeous.

Zack on The Skeptic

Zack on The Skeptic

Zack on The Skeptic. <br />May 2009

Zack on The Skeptic.
May 2009


Nice lines

Nice lines

awesome flyby of Moab (i think) on Delta 708, 9.29.09

awesome flyby of Moab (i think) on Delta 708, 9.29...


Comments on Moab Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Kiessel
Dec 19, 2007

Hell yes it's recommended! Climb any South face you want.

By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Dec 19, 2007

Yeah, chase the sun. I've put away the rack and skiied in the La Salles in January, and i've climbed Castleton in a sweater. You just never know.

Good routes are most anything sunny at Indian Creek or Wall Street and Kor-Ingalls on Castleton. v Most long routes will be cold.

By Indian Creek 2112
Oct 15, 2009

I am an avid climber and love Indian creek so much I decided to by a hotel Inn at the Canyons, Monticello, Utah so I could be closer. I offer all climbers a 25% on rooms if you just mention you are a climber. My name is jared, owner of inn at the canyons and if you stay I can reccomend some amazing climbs that only locals know about. Hope to see you here. Reservations 435 587-2458