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 ADVANCED
Penitente - Inner Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Maniacs 
7/11 
A Virgin No More 
Air Jordan 
Anatomy 101 
Animosity 
Apes in Estrus 
B1 or V5 
Bad Rap 
Banana Slugs in Heat 
Black Jesus 
Black Sheets of Rain 
Breakdown Dead Ahead 
Brown Sugar 
Bullet the Blue Sky 
Candy Apple Grey 
Children Of A Lesser Grade 
Colville Express 
Concupiscent Curds 
Dazed and Confuzed 
Dog's Delight 
El Dedo Es la Llave 
Forever Young 
Freddy's Nightmare 
Friday the 13th 
Handle with Care 
Harvey's Wallbanger 
Head Over Heals 
Heaven Can Wait 
Hip Hop 
How The West Was Won 
Huecos Rancheros 
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba 
Innocent Mission 
Intimidator 
Jabba the Hut 
Jack and Diane 
Jewel Of The Mild 
Josie's  
Los Hermanos de la Penitente 
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way 
Morada 
Ms. Cool 
No Intent 
No Sweat, No Vapor 
Not My Cross To Bear 
Nueve a Seis 
Omnipenitent 
Ordinary People 
Passion Play 
Pumping Huecos 
Ranck E 
Reptiles Lust and Dogs 
Santa Cruz 
Schizoid Way 
Shady Lady 
Shear Strength 
Sheer Lunacy 
Sister of Mercy 
Soul Boy 
Tanks for the Hueco 
Tao of Gymnastic 
True Penitence 
Unbound 
Unknown (5.6 ramp) 
Unknown 5.10a 
Unknown 5.10d 
Unrepenitente 
Vapor Trails 
Unsorted Routes:

10,000 Maniacs 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Glen Schuler, Mark Milligan and Rick Westbay, 1988
Page Views: 1,056
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 4, 2001
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Description 

10,000 Maniacs is immediately right of Brown Sugar and ascends the same wall. Expect very similar climbing with longer reaches on a slightly past vertical wall. The angle drops back to dead vertical after 20 ft but never drops below this until quite close to the anchor. Angle a bit right-wards to get started and really work the feet. Clipping the first couple of bolts seems a bit spooky until the fingers are warmed up. The climbing on Maniacs is quite continuous and the diminishing edges just never get very wide. This is an excellent route with considerable tweak factor for something only 50 ft long.


Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.



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By Dirty Murph
From: Alamosa, Colorado
Sep 30, 2008

Some asshole took off with the first bolt. Also, might want a couple of pads to protect the groundfall.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Great route. The first bolt/hanger is back as of 6-2009. There seems to be a problem with assholes taking hangers around here. I can't comprehend why some one would do that. Thanks to whoever put it back.

By Slade
From: Gunnison
Dec 5, 2010

I have no idea what my problem is...but this felt a bit harder than an 11c. Not sure why I think that...Forbidden Fruit honestly felt easier than this. For what it's worth...oh well...maybe I just need to HTFU!!

By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 20, 2011

The crux for me was right off the ground. Excellent route - not pumpy or powerful at all, just techy. Brown Sugar makes for a great warm up for this route.

By Chris Mack
May 19, 2013

The start of this is insane. Something haaad to have broken off... right? :)