10,000 Leagues  5.11- R

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  Topher Donahue, Vera Schulte-Pelkum, Kent McClannan, 2003 Submitted By:  Scott Bennett on Dec 6, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

10,000 Leagues is an interesting route that weaves a path between some classic bits of climbing. While parts are lichenous, and somewhat contrived, it's a worthwhile route for someone who's climbed everything else on this excellent sector of the Redgarden Wall.

P1: Begin with the infamous third pitch of Jules Verne, climb through the big runout, and then continue past the broken band onto Lene's Dream. A few body-lengths above the broken band, reach a slanting pod for a green Alien. Instead of cutting right to The Naked Edge, cast off up and left, following an incipient seam.

As the wall slabs out, traverse left to the fixed pin-nut belay on Jules Verne.

The JV-LD part of the pitch is probably 5.11- R, and the 10kL part is 5.10 R.

P2: Traverse right off the JV belay towards a short, right-angling flake system. Place good gear here, then climb up into another vague crack system. Trend left up the featured wall, through a shallow, right-facing corner, and finally rejoin JV below a big roof to belay. 5.11- R.

P3: Climb the JV roof. Continue up, and stay straight where JV breaks left. Chase dirty seams and thin face holds up increasingly slabby terrain, finishing on the summit ridge. 10+ R.

Protection 

Gear to #2 Camalot, heavy on the thin stuff.