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100% yourself 
Dangling Chad, The 
Emmanator 
Far Left, The 
Imagine 
Spiderpig of the Desert 
Two Party System 

100% yourself 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jay Brown
New Route: Yes
Season: colder weather
Page Views: 408
Submitted By: Jay Brown on Apr 20, 2010
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Description 

The crux is in the area about 20' up where the pro runs out and then there is 2 bolts of tricky corner and crimp jessery. This route has it all, tips, hands, chimney, sport jessery. A bit of "new wave" that actually isn't 5.13.


Location 

1-silver tcu
2or3 purple tcu
2-blue tcu
2-.4 cams
1-.5 cam
1-.75 cam
2or3 #1 cams
2-#2 cams
1-#3 cam
2 quickdraws for bolts

The anchor is a bolt and fixed #1 cam which will be replaced with a bolt in the future.


Protection 

The route is 6' to the right of "Imagine .11+" which is in the new "Bloom" book. The start looks like a right facing corner that goes from tips to nothing in about 20', then you can easily see the 2 bolts.



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By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Apr 20, 2010

The rating could be .12a for others, so i would like to gather a consensus on this. thanks