100 Proof 5.12a
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Good page? (2 likes)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | D. Montgomery & K. McIlrath, 10-19-09 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | sunny most of the day |
| Submitted By: | Monty on Oct 19, 2009 |
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In the steep crux
-photo by Darren Mabe.
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The Skinny! This is another new addition to the left side of Creekside, or as I like to call it the "binge side."
Start up on solid black rock on crisp edges and crimpers passing 3 bolts (low 10). Rest at a stance clip another bolt make a couple tenuous mid 11 moves to a good flat crimp, clip. Adjust your hands, smear your feet and deadpoint/ dyno to a sloper. Make a tough clip from the sloper, and a few more 11ish moves and finish on fun 5.10 climbing to the anchor of Rumpleminze.
- From this anchor, you can either lower or continue up and right through a brilliant, slab traverse (11-) to the belay at the base of the Brennivin roof.
This is essentially a harder, and more direct version of Rumpleminze. It is convenient to climb Rumpleminze and hang the draws on 100 Proof on your way down. This is also a more classic way to access the roof routes above.
Protection 8 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.
There is a 1 bolt extension to the anchor for Brennivin routes.
Where you at? This route is located in between Rumpleminze and the regular start to Brennivin. Approach via Shenanigans, or wade across the creek in low water.
Skipping the anchor of 100 proof, and slabing it u...
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Another view of the extension of 100 Proof to the ...
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Darren setting up for the crux throw of 100 Proof....
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| Yeeeeee haw!!! Great work rekindling development in this area! |
By Luke Childers
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| Nice... love me some new develpment!! Can't wait to check it out!! Routes look so good. Thanks for all your hard work!!! |
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 20, 2009
rating: 5.12a
| Excellent, excellent line at Binge Side. Continuous climbing and 12a seems about dead on, I think it clocks in a bit harder than Rhett Wench (11+). Techy crux. Stays after you until the very end. Great stone that will brush up nicely. Well done, Dave, good eye! This will easily get 3 stars in the revision of my book. |
By Luke Childers
Mar 26, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| Just climbed this line today and I must say... it's quite good!! Crimps and dynamic movement make this route a fine line. Everyone should give this one a go!!! Nice work Dave.. thanks for your efforts, man!!! |
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| I have found that since the bolt at the end of the crux is difficult for me to clip, having poor feet for a clipping stance, climbing slightly past you can clip it at your waist. The fall here is still clean, however, if your belayer is careful. |
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