School Gate Rock Climbing

The School Gate crag is the looming, square-shaped sentinel that can be seen from across the bay. It is most people's introduction to the Dragon Cave since it has the shortest, easiest approach and contains a number of moderate trad and sport routes. It is also densely packed, allowing large groups of climbers to conveniently lay siege. You can expect there to be a huge concentration of people here from March-October. If you climb 5.12 you will find a number of great routes and won't have to queue.

While the namesake crag is the first one you encounter, there are two other distinct areas. On the ocean-side is Appentice Rock, with several short trad routes and/or high-ball problems (no anchors, easy walk-off). On the uphill-side is Disco Buttress, for which the meaning has been lost to the ages. Several high-quality sport routes between 5.10-13 are packed in all around this.

The area is mostly southeast facing, and so is pretty toasty in the summer. However, there are some routes with northerly aspects that are in the shade for most of the day. If it gets too hot, you can head out to the ocean. There is one great spot - fairly obvious - that is sheltered all around by rocks that stick up out of the ocean. Some have been known to jump off said rocks. This is about a 3-minute walk south of the crag. You'll probably be sharing the area with day-trippers and divers.

Japanese hornets have also been known to congregate here in the warmer months. They have even stung someone into unconsciousness - be careful! If you see them - or hear them coming in like a death-wielding drone - do your best to avoid them.

Finally, this area picks up a lot of garbage from high storm tides. Please help us by taking a little bit with you on your way out.