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1 locker or two O&O ovals?
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By TedFrelke
Nov 17, 2011

I have a pre-made TR anchor made from an extension limited sling with lockers for the bolts. My question, is would you feel better with a master point of 1 locking biner or two opposite and opposed ovals? I have both and just want a consensus.

Thanks.


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By Nathan Stokes
Nov 17, 2011

for TR or lead climbing? If I am TR and don't have my Mark IV Mod 5 eyeball on the anchor, I use opposite and opposed lockers (steels actually) for the master point. If I am lead climbing and hanging there at the anchor I use one giant locker (BD Rocklock) for the master point which I anchor into with a clove hitch on my end of the rope and then generally clip into the top shelf with my PAS for a redundant point.


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By Tristan B
From La Crescenta, CA
Nov 17, 2011
Hanging out on Royal Arches

I usually do this. I have a draw with a locker on each end and then just use a normal draw.


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By Chris I
From Fresno, CA
Nov 17, 2011
First trad lead.

Pretty much the same difference to me. Depending on how the TR setup is laying, the locker may unscrew if it is rubbing against rock at any point. In that case, I would go with opposite ovals. But I've done both and don't really worry about it.


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By adam brink
From Boulder, CO
Nov 17, 2011
Arlo in all his magnificence.

Why wouldn't you use two lockers instead of two ovals?


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By Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Nov 17, 2011
My navigator keeps me from getting lost

6 of one. half a dozen of the other.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Nov 17, 2011
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

adam brink wrote:
Why wouldn't you use two lockers instead of two ovals?


Just general safety of the lockers is a good reason. And I really don't think many sport climbers even own an oval carabiner anymore. They aren't on draws and not on the PAS system, so have little use except to store gear (nuts) and on long neck slings for trad climbs. Most of my old ovals are retired by now.


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By TedFrelke
Nov 17, 2011

adam brink wrote:
Why wouldn't you use two lockers instead of two ovals?


I don't have two lockers, I have two ovals and one locker. I figure, they're about the same level of safety, so I thought I'd find out what folks like to see when they get to the anchors on TR.


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By Rob Rives
Nov 17, 2011
Crux pitch

In a slingshot toprope setting, two opposite and opposed carabiners are always safer than a single locking carabiner, for the simple fact that in an extreme situation the locker could unscrew and open. An O/O setup is by definition an unbroken ring of metal, meaning that with both carabiner gates open the toprope cannot slip out.


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Nov 17, 2011
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Plus one for Rob.

It is a bad idea when top roping to only have a single point (biner) where the rope passes through.

Two lockers can be good but sometimes the screw gate causes them to sit funny.

I think the AMGA suggests two lockers or THREE opposite and opposed biners... Super bomb proof!


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By TedFrelke
Nov 17, 2011

If it's only going to be a couple people TRing after me, I'll just leave draws, if I have two left over, but if it's a popular route with lots of beginners taking turns on it, I don't want the wear on my draws. I think I'll go with the ovals now.

Thanks again for the input.


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By PosiDave
Jan 30, 2012

Use the locker and a opposite non locker. If you don't want to spend the $6.95 for a locking biner.


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 30, 2012
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

i run the rope through the chains


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By Alex Swan
From West
Jan 30, 2012
Rather Grand

Darren Mabe wrote:
i run the rope through the chains


I'm assuming you know that this is degenerative and bad practice if others are TRing or seconding.

If this is a Belay Station I just put up a sliding X with a locking biner for a M point throw, hitch my harness to the MP and set up a redirect or autoblock.

For consensus purposes I prefer one locker over 2 ovals. Bring the minimal amount of gear


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By Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Jan 30, 2012
My navigator keeps me from getting lost

Luke Stefurak wrote:
I think the AMGA suggests two lockers or THREE opposite and opposed biners... Super bomb proof!


No. They don't.


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By Tyler Wick
From Campbell, CA
Jan 30, 2012
ECM

Darren Mabe wrote:
i run the rope through the chains


This is a terrible idea. Why not take a point of failure out of the system and run the rope through the hangers?


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By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jan 30, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Peak.

So, has anyone ever heard of two opposed non-locking draws somehow coming off the rope in a toprope setup? Neither have I. Add a locker, or not. Statistically it won't make any difference. Just avoid using ONE locker alone as the sole point of attachment.


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