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1 locker or two O&O ovals?
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Nov 17, 2011
I have a pre-made TR anchor made from an extension limited sling with lockers for the bolts. My question, is would you feel better with a master point of 1 locking biner or two opposite and opposed ovals? I have both and just want a consensus.

Thanks.
TedFrelke
Joined Oct 18, 2011
0 points
Nov 17, 2011
for TR or lead climbing? If I am TR and don't have my Mark IV Mod 5 eyeball on the anchor, I use opposite and opposed lockers (steels actually) for the master point. If I am lead climbing and hanging there at the anchor I use one giant locker (BD Rocklock) for the master point which I anchor into with a clove hitch on my end of the rope and then generally clip into the top shelf with my PAS for a redundant point. Nathan Stokes
Joined Oct 20, 2008
479 points
Nov 17, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Hanging out on Royal Arches
I usually do this. I have a draw with a locker on each end and then just use a normal draw.
Tristan B
From La Crescenta, CA
Joined Oct 1, 2009
1,512 points
Nov 17, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: First trad lead.
Pretty much the same difference to me. Depending on how the TR setup is laying, the locker may unscrew if it is rubbing against rock at any point. In that case, I would go with opposite ovals. But I've done both and don't really worry about it. Chris I
From Fresno, CA
Joined Nov 4, 2007
118 points
Nov 17, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Arlo in all his magnificence.
Why wouldn't you use two lockers instead of two ovals? adam brink
From Boulder, CO
Joined Mar 1, 2001
670 points
Nov 17, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: My navigator keeps me from getting lost
6 of one. half a dozen of the other. Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Joined Jul 17, 2006
274 points
Nov 17, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
adam brink wrote:
Why wouldn't you use two lockers instead of two ovals?


Just general safety of the lockers is a good reason. And I really don't think many sport climbers even own an oval carabiner anymore. They aren't on draws and not on the PAS system, so have little use except to store gear (nuts) and on long neck slings for trad climbs. Most of my old ovals are retired by now.
Woodchuck ATC
Joined Nov 29, 2007
3,133 points
Nov 17, 2011
adam brink wrote:
Why wouldn't you use two lockers instead of two ovals?


I don't have two lockers, I have two ovals and one locker. I figure, they're about the same level of safety, so I thought I'd find out what folks like to see when they get to the anchors on TR.
TedFrelke
Joined Oct 18, 2011
0 points
Nov 17, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux pitch
In a slingshot toprope setting, two opposite and opposed carabiners are always safer than a single locking carabiner, for the simple fact that in an extreme situation the locker could unscrew and open. An O/O setup is by definition an unbroken ring of metal, meaning that with both carabiner gates open the toprope cannot slip out. Rob Rives
Joined Apr 23, 2010
157 points
Nov 17, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after...
Plus one for Rob.

It is a bad idea when top roping to only have a single point (biner) where the rope passes through.

Two lockers can be good but sometimes the screw gate causes them to sit funny.

I think the AMGA suggests two lockers or THREE opposite and opposed biners... Super bomb proof!
Luke Stefurak
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jan 26, 2006
2,443 points
Nov 17, 2011
If it's only going to be a couple people TRing after me, I'll just leave draws, if I have two left over, but if it's a popular route with lots of beginners taking turns on it, I don't want the wear on my draws. I think I'll go with the ovals now.

Thanks again for the input.
TedFrelke
Joined Oct 18, 2011
0 points
Jan 30, 2012
Use the locker and a opposite non locker. If you don't want to spend the $6.95 for a locking biner. PosiDave
Joined Dec 7, 2011
68 points
Jan 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Edge of an Age. Beautiful canary cracks in backgro...
i run the rope through the chains Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,924 points
Jan 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Rather Grand
Darren Mabe wrote:
i run the rope through the chains


I'm assuming you know that this is degenerative and bad practice if others are TRing or seconding.

If this is a Belay Station I just put up a sliding X with a locking biner for a M point throw, hitch my harness to the MP and set up a redirect or autoblock.

For consensus purposes I prefer one locker over 2 ovals. Bring the minimal amount of gear
Alex Swan
From West
Joined Dec 30, 2011
26 points
Jan 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: My navigator keeps me from getting lost
Luke Stefurak wrote:
I think the AMGA suggests two lockers or THREE opposite and opposed biners... Super bomb proof!


No. They don't.
Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Joined Jul 17, 2006
274 points
Jan 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: ECM
Darren Mabe wrote:
i run the rope through the chains


This is a terrible idea. Why not take a point of failure out of the system and run the rope through the hangers?
Tyler Wick
From Bishop, CA
Joined Oct 8, 2010
127 points
Jan 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
So, has anyone ever heard of two opposed non-locking draws somehow coming off the rope in a toprope setup? Neither have I. Add a locker, or not. Statistically it won't make any difference. Just avoid using ONE locker alone as the sole point of attachment. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,594 points


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