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1. Bat Cave

Routes Sorted
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Axis of Evil 
Crystal Therapy 
Dark Night 
Fang Shui 
H3 
Holeistic Healing 
Horrorscope 
Letting Go 
Molten Magma 
Palm Reader 
Path to Enlightenment 
Rifle-esque (Chaturanga) 
Subaru Nation 
Tacoma Man 

1. Bat Cave 


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Page Views: 5,482
Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jfoley on Dec 16, 2006
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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route Add Photo Add Comment Add Event 

Jay Foley on Letting Go

www.AndrewBurr.com Photog...
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Description 

This is the obvious spill-off area which has formed a large amphitheater. Overhanging sport climbs on positive holds is the standard here. At first glance, I thought it was loose choss, but it is surprisingly good basalt. This is a very beautiful spot, please respect it and tread lightly. STICK CLIP IS A MUST! All routes require a pre-cliped first bolt and Consider a Helmet.

Routes: Right to Left

  • (10) Guillotine (chopped)


Getting There 

See Vista Verde or Taos Rock: Climbs and Boulders of Northern New Mexico by Jay Foley. Publisher: Sharp End Publishing, 2005


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',5],['5.12',7],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for 1. Bat Cave:
Holeistic Healing   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport   
Subaru Nation   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a     Sport   
Crystal Therapy   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Rifle-esque (Chaturanga)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 80'   
Path to Enlightenment   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 45'   
Fang Shui   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport   
Browse More Classics in 1. Bat Cave

Featured Route For 1. Bat Cave
Jay Foley courtesy <a href='http://www.andrewburr.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.andrewburr.com</a>

Letting Go 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b  NM : Taos Area : ... : 1. Bat Cave
Shares Start with Path and climbs Right under large horizontal roof. Pulls to vertical rock then crux on second smaller roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of 1. Bat Cave Slideshow Add Photo
Start to Path of enlightenment
Start to Path of enlightenment
Jay Foley workin' for the FA of Letting Go.Photo:Bob'D
Jay Foley workin' for the FA of Letting Go.Photo:B...
Augie Schroeder on Fang Shui
Augie Schroeder on Fang Shui
Tim Naylor's original route guide/topo <br /> <br />Image courtesy of <a href='http://andrewburr.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >andrewburr.com</a>.  All rights reserved.
Tim Naylor's original route guide/topo

Image cour...
Bat Cave
BETA PHOTO: Bat Cave
Water streaks at base of bat cave. <br /> <br />Image courtesy of <a href='http://andrewburr.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >andrewburr.com</a>.  All rights reserved.
Water streaks at base of bat cave.

Image courtesy...
Kevin Ormerod floats the FA of Chaturanga.FoleyPhoto
Kevin Ormerod floats the FA of Chaturanga.FoleyPho...
color adjusted
BETA PHOTO: color adjusted
Comments on 1. Bat Cave Add Comment
Show which comments
By tim naylor
Aug 22, 2007

stick clip recommended for this area, even essential! large sharp holds on choss but very fun climbing. most put up on lead so please excuse bolt placements. lots of work to clean and bolt these climbs. wear a helmet. grades very subjective due to limited ascents, please feel free to comment

By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
Nov 5, 2007

I pulled one hold and literally felt another crumble in my hand, so it is highly advisable to wear a helmet and have your belayer in location free from possible debris. I realize that this is a newish area and New Mexico does not see a lot of traffic but between here and Utopian Vista I pulled three holds (btw I weigh 150lbs so it isn't like I'm some monster of a human). If these two areas see some traffic and clean up some they will be great. I really like the movement that this rock yields.

All you Greenies should Head on down South to New Mexico for some clipie, clipie, and of course Green Chile at Orlando's.

By tim naylor
Jun 12, 2009

it is very easy to get off route in the b.c. not much chalk yet, lots of holds, and only a few ascents so different sizes and styles will use untested holds. They will probably get downgraded as they clean up, some feel lots easier already. Just pretend you are alpine climbing and enjoy the adventure.

By Heath Bailey
Aug 20, 2013

I've come to really enjoy this area for its steep gymnastic movement. And it has cleaned up nicely. Does anyone have route info. for the bouldery steep routes through the drippy calcite stripes on the left side of the cave? The two routes lie between Rifle-esque (Chaturanga) and Fang Shui. The left has two chains through the steeps and the right, one. I can't speak for the left route as I haven't been on it at this point but the right route seems in the 12+/13a range. Both appear to be great additions to this stellar crag.

By djkyote
Aug 20, 2013

^ FAs of both routes: JFoley. I think both were decided to be about 12c/d with very beta intensive cruxes. Glad you like the upgrades of chain and further cleaning we did last spring.

By tim naylor
Aug 23, 2013

glad you like it, feel free to fix or change anything there, people do. (99% for the better) It would be great if some of the sharp jug holds were comfortized, we were starting to but got accused of chiseling before we even started. Why would we chisel massive jugs? Thanks for the appreciation of a pretty unique place. ( I really need to edit a lot better the first time.)

By Jfoley
Dec 23, 2013

Heath, the two new routes are Dark Night and H3. I just posted them to the Bat Cave section.