(07) Cody Wasn't Here
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BETA PHOTO: Original route. An easy access ramp diagonals down...
1. From an open flat spot at the base, straight down from the left end of the huge ledge above, scramble up left thru a couple trees to the base at a short, right-facing corner with a bulge. Turn bulge then up and right to engage the chimney. Climb chimney to the ledge and belay off tree. 5.7 140
2. Shift belay about 100 to the right at the base of the chimney in the large left-facing corner. 3rd class.
3. Original:Climb chimney, exiting left near top, then** stepping back right across top of chimney to belay on large ledge. 5.6 110 [**Better to continue up black crack at top of chimney in one long pitch to 2 bolt belay. 58m Cody Direct 5.8 (J.Mw., A.S., C.J.)]
4. Step onto face and diagonal left to rounded buttress that is above the third pitch chimney. Easier runout face to 2-bolt belay at top of Cody Direct. 5.7+ 140
Rap 58m (double ropes) from the 2-bolt belay to the huge ledge. 3rd class down then east along easy ramp to ground.
To the right of the huge roof in the center of the south face is a steep slab gully with a chimney that leads up to a huge vegetated ledge. The ledge extends right for a 100 to the base of the large left-facing corner mentioned in the "location" section for "Chicken Crack." On the FA most of this area was actually flowing with snow melt. The direct finish was too wet on the FA, but is definitely the best finish. You can actually 3rd class to the base of the 3rd pitch by coming in from the right on a ramp, and climb one long pitch to the top (Cody Direct.). The original route starts about 50 down and left of a triangular-shaped roof.
Include double cams to 3.5"
BETA PHOTO: My 8 year old son exiting the chimney at the top o...
Stemming up the direct finish. [photo by Dave Webs...
Topo at the base of the route
BETA PHOTO: My buddy Don and my son near the top of the unprot...
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Mar 6, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Really enjoyed the direct finish up the crack!
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 6, 2013
The chimney pitch (after the belay shift) and the variation crack pitch were quite good. Surprisingly good rock and all gear.