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1. From an open flat spot at the base, straight down from the left end of the huge ledge above, scramble up left thru a couple trees to the base at a short, right-facing corner with a bulge. Turn bulge then up and right to engage the chimney. Climb chimney to the ledge and belay off tree. 5.7 140
To the right of the huge roof in the center of the south face is a steep slab gully with a chimney that leads up to a huge vegetated ledge. The ledge extends right for a 100 to the base of the large left-facing corner mentioned in the "location" section for "Chicken Crack." On the FA most of this area was actually flowing with snow melt. The direct finish was too wet on the FA, but is definitely the best finish. You can actually 3rd class to the base of the 3rd pitch by coming in from the right on a ramp, and climb one long pitch to the top (Cody Direct.). The original route starts about 50 down and left of a triangular-shaped roof.
Include double cams to 3.5"