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 ADVANCED
Stonewall (aka Airmen Peak)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(01) Chicken Crack T 
(02) Pin There, Done That? T 
(03) Squeeze Me T 
(04) Pardon Me While I Stem T 
(05) Stoner Crack T 
(06) Pagoda Crack T 
(07) Cody Wasn't Here T 
(08) Flyboys T 
(09) Chimney Route T 
(10) Stembrosia T 
(11) A Comedy of Scarers T 
(12) Oh Yeah, That Snake! T 
Sweet Sarah T 
Why Wouldn'tya? T 

(07) Cody Wasn't Here 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: JMw, Dan Dezess, Chris LaFave (12-07)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 395
Submitted By: JMayhew on Feb 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Original route. An easy access ramp diagonals down...

Description 

1. From an open flat spot at the base, straight down from the left end of the huge ledge above, scramble up left thru a couple trees to the base at a short, right-facing corner with a bulge. Turn bulge then up and right to engage the chimney. Climb chimney to the ledge and belay off tree. 5.7 140’

2. Shift belay about 100’ to the right at the base of the chimney in the large left-facing corner. 3rd class.

3. Original:Climb chimney, exiting left near top, then** stepping back right across top of chimney to belay on large ledge. 5.6 110’ [**Better to continue up black crack at top of chimney in one long pitch to 2 bolt belay. 58m Cody Direct 5.8 (J.Mw., A.S., C.J.)]

4. Step onto face and diagonal left to rounded buttress that is above the third pitch chimney. Easier runout face to 2-bolt belay at top of “Cody Direct.” 5.7+ 140’

Rap 58m (double ropes) from the 2-bolt belay to the huge ledge. 3rd class down then east along easy ramp to ground.


Location 

To the right of the huge roof in the center of the south face is a steep slab gully with a chimney that leads up to a huge vegetated ledge. The ledge extends right for a 100’ to the base of the large left-facing corner mentioned in the "location" section for "Chicken Crack." On the FA most of this area was actually flowing with snow melt. The direct finish was too wet on the FA, but is definitely the best finish. You can actually 3rd class to the base of the 3rd pitch by coming in from the right on a ramp, and climb one long pitch to the top (Cody Direct.). The original route starts about 50’ down and left of a triangular-shaped roof.


Protection 

Include double cams to 3.5"



Photos of (07) Cody Wasn't Here Slideshow Add Photo
My 8 year old son exiting the chimney at the top of pitch 3. We used the first ledge with the tree as belay #3 instead of continuing up to the next ledge. #4 goes up to the next ledge and go across to the buttress and just left. protect that swing as much as possible if you choose to use the tree instead. Fun!
BETA PHOTO: My 8 year old son exiting the chimney at the top o...
Stemming up the direct finish. [photo by Dave Webster]
Stemming up the direct finish. [photo by Dave Webs...
Marcy on the last pitch
Marcy on the last pitch
Topo at the base of the route
Topo at the base of the route
My buddy Don and my son near the top of the unprotected 5.7 chimney that gets run out to the anchor tree. Pick the living one. First pitch is long and wandering. find the chimney! and bring a 60m, or two if you want to rap the route as safely as possible.
BETA PHOTO: My buddy Don and my son near the top of the unprot...
Comments on (07) Cody Wasn't Here Add Comment
Show which comments
By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Mar 6, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Really enjoyed the direct finish up the crack!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 6, 2013

The chimney pitch (after the belay shift) and the variation crack pitch were quite good. Surprisingly good rock and all gear.