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This is the shortest, slabbiest area at the New Side, and is a great place for people new to climbing or new to leading. It offers a small selection of unintimidating 5.6-5.8 routes, and gets sun all afternoon. Not that Mentmore is crowded, but there is never ANYBODY down at this end. The rock is typically sandy, with bits of varnish providing the best face holds.
From the parking lot, just follow the road and keep walking right along the base of the wall, passing the Corridor, the Wall of Dreams, and the Balcony. At the Balcony, leave the road and approach the base of the cliff. Find a rough trail that heads up and right along the wall. This will lead you up to the Open Face Wall. About 5 minutes walk from the parking lot.
Routes (from left to right)
Opie Ate for the Masses (5.7, 4 bolts)
5 Total Routes
Featured Route For (05) The Open Face Wall
Start up steep rock of dubious quality (stickclip recommended) to the first bolt. Traverse left and up slightly passing the second bolt with a cool move. Passing the third bolt the crux is encountered a big dyno between good holds. Clip the 4th bolt and an easier crux is encountered a deadpoint to a mantle on sandy sloper holds. From here a nice rest is encountered than the next challenge is finding the achors, pull over the final lip and clip the anchors on top of the cliff.With some tricke...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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