|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Anthony Stout on Jun 11, 2009|
|Comments on (05) Leapin Lizzards||Add Comment|
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By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Mar 8, 2015
Last route of the trip. Great fun - athletic and powerful. The low crux would be much tougher for a short person (12a?). One of my favorite routes of the grade, anywhere. The route goes into the shade around 4:30 in March, but the sun will be in your eyes until 5:30/6:00. Great route for a sunset send followed by some stargazing.
WARNING - DETAILED BETA BELOW
Crux is the first three or four moves to the huge jug at the lip, probably a V3/V4 boulder problem. Once you get the huge jug there is a full out no hands rest in the hueco (left kneebar, painful, pad recommended).
The upper face is peppered with smaller cruxes, but there are enough rests and good holds to keep the difficulty around 11- to the top.